Motor Mount Replacement
61 - 80 of 84 Posts
That happened to me at first because the 2x4 I used was shorter than the opening but still too long; it cleared the opening then hit a crossmember when jacking and lifted the whole car. Check if your piece of wood may be too long. Also be sure to remove the fan shroud bolts.
That's what it seems like because there is no hesitation... whole front end goes up the second I hoist the oil pan even a millimeter. But I'm using a small wood block for the very reason you pointed out. Shroud is loose, but nothing is hitting up top at all anyways. It never gets a chance to because the motor never rises in the bay. Any chance these rubber mounts got 'fused' to their brackets? They ARE extremely shot. I keep retrying different ways but not comfy hoisting my whole front end by the oil pan!
OK,I gotta give up. There's nothing hitting up top, everything has at least 1.5 inch clearance, shroud loose, all mount bolts off, jack/wood block only on oil pan BUT motor won't rise up without immediately bringing the whole front end with it.
I've had the same vibration problems others have resolved with new mounts. Old mounts have compressed about an inch compared to new. But I'm thinking I got bigger problems and the vibration is coming from some other frame/driveline contact I'm not seeing.
I read through several motor removal threads here and found no similar issue. Guess I'll be buttoning it back up with the old mounts and taking it into a shop. Grrrrrrrr.
I've had the same vibration problems others have resolved with new mounts. Old mounts have compressed about an inch compared to new. But I'm thinking I got bigger problems and the vibration is coming from some other frame/driveline contact I'm not seeing.
I read through several motor removal threads here and found no similar issue. Guess I'll be buttoning it back up with the old mounts and taking it into a shop. Grrrrrrrr.
Thanks Joel, got an answer there. Problem was me... forgot that as I was lifting the engine, the suspension would initially start lifting the rest of the truck since it didn't have to carry the engine weight any more. Dohhhhhh!
Ya gotta crank!
Ya gotta crank!
Where can i buy them?
Having the same issue...got the passenger side with a bit of effort, but cannot get the drivers side. The front axle tops out on the frame and I am about 1/4" from having the mount clear the bracket. Car is jacked up separately with no weight on the suspension. Ideas?.
front end jacked up needed ??
Is there any benefit to having the suspension unloaded? (front end jacked up off ground)
I have a 2004 Olds Bravada and the shaking on cold startups/idle is starting to get really bad! Its AWD so i only ordered the easier passenger side for the first attempt. I've got around 150k on the odo.
I'm wondering if its just as well to leave the car on the ground/weighted and drive up on blocks or something to get the clearance needed to put a 2x4 under the oil pan. Seems that would save alot of jacking to get the struts collapsed if whole front end was up off the air on jacks.
Thanks!
mark
Is there any benefit to having the suspension unloaded? (front end jacked up off ground)
I have a 2004 Olds Bravada and the shaking on cold startups/idle is starting to get really bad! Its AWD so i only ordered the easier passenger side for the first attempt. I've got around 150k on the odo.
I'm wondering if its just as well to leave the car on the ground/weighted and drive up on blocks or something to get the clearance needed to put a 2x4 under the oil pan. Seems that would save alot of jacking to get the struts collapsed if whole front end was up off the air on jacks.
Thanks!
mark
You don't need blocks or to do anything on the suspension. Just slide under the car and use the jack. I guess it depends how big of a person you are for if you can get under it without raising it at all...
Just follow the advice and you have to jack up a lot. For me it was helpful that i had a spotter looking at the radiator etc to tell me when I had to stop.
Just follow the advice and you have to jack up a lot. For me it was helpful that i had a spotter looking at the radiator etc to tell me when I had to stop.
:woohoo:Changed out the motor mounts this weekend, thanks for all of the previous post.
It was not too bad. Didn't remove anything at all to get the job done. On the driver side I grinded off the unthreaded part on the top stud. With a little bit of force I got it in place.
I replaced the passenger side first, after replacing this one I snugged the bottom bolt to keep the heat shield in place. If not the thing will slide around and when you think you’re done the shield is turned around.
Thanks again everyone.
:thx
![motor mounts.jpg]()
It was not too bad. Didn't remove anything at all to get the job done. On the driver side I grinded off the unthreaded part on the top stud. With a little bit of force I got it in place.
I replaced the passenger side first, after replacing this one I snugged the bottom bolt to keep the heat shield in place. If not the thing will slide around and when you think you’re done the shield is turned around.
Thanks again everyone.
:thx
Motor mounts-
I've got a really big problem. Of course no one knows until its too late
In February I had a shop do my annual fix up. This ticket was two motor mounts, weld the top bracket of passenger side mount, Rack and Pinion Seal, Back brakes/Rotors, Alignment. Anyhow, I noticed of the rip a little vibration in the seat- they said its just stiff new mounts, they will settle...over 1k miles now...The vibration is awful now, in traffic.. any thing under 1 rpm. Ridiculous! I cant post pictures... but I did take photos. They are two different style/ sizes both have stickers 3021. I know the aftermarket complaint... of course I knew nothing before hand. When I took to the shop they said well they are the same.. maybe passenger side was on shelf for a while and they just changed they style. The noticeable difference is one is flatter- the bases are different- one is smooth round base, the other is a notched round base. Would this be causing roaring vibration lasting about 5 seconds? Any insight before I go bananas on the shop? They have offered to switch out the passenger side...
I've got a really big problem. Of course no one knows until its too late
In February I had a shop do my annual fix up. This ticket was two motor mounts, weld the top bracket of passenger side mount, Rack and Pinion Seal, Back brakes/Rotors, Alignment. Anyhow, I noticed of the rip a little vibration in the seat- they said its just stiff new mounts, they will settle...over 1k miles now...The vibration is awful now, in traffic.. any thing under 1 rpm. Ridiculous! I cant post pictures... but I did take photos. They are two different style/ sizes both have stickers 3021. I know the aftermarket complaint... of course I knew nothing before hand. When I took to the shop they said well they are the same.. maybe passenger side was on shelf for a while and they just changed they style. The noticeable difference is one is flatter- the bases are different- one is smooth round base, the other is a notched round base. Would this be causing roaring vibration lasting about 5 seconds? Any insight before I go bananas on the shop? They have offered to switch out the passenger side...
I have had the bad vibration at idle lately (110k mi. on the Envoy).
I bought 2 AC Delco motor mounts and so far have replaced the passenger side only. The vibration is completely gone, it idles and drives nice and smooth now. Drivers side will also get replaced since they are the same age.
The old mount is about 1/4" shorter than the new mount so I wanted to see how the mount is made and what went bad. I cut into my old mount with a hack saw and found out that the mounts are liquid filled and look like a large ball joint inside. They are not just solid rubber mounts!
Here is a picture of my factory mount cut away:
Very interesting!!!
Another tip for Trailvoys with 4wd:
I unbolted the passenger side motor mount, then jacked up the motor until the axle touched the frame. The mount still needed another 3/4" before it would come out. I then found it easy to unbolt the bracket from the engine block, remove the 2 lower bolts and just loosen the top 2 bolts. This lets you lift up the bracket and easily swap the motor mount.
I bought 2 AC Delco motor mounts and so far have replaced the passenger side only. The vibration is completely gone, it idles and drives nice and smooth now. Drivers side will also get replaced since they are the same age.
The old mount is about 1/4" shorter than the new mount so I wanted to see how the mount is made and what went bad. I cut into my old mount with a hack saw and found out that the mounts are liquid filled and look like a large ball joint inside. They are not just solid rubber mounts!
Here is a picture of my factory mount cut away:
Very interesting!!!
Another tip for Trailvoys with 4wd:
I unbolted the passenger side motor mount, then jacked up the motor until the axle touched the frame. The mount still needed another 3/4" before it would come out. I then found it easy to unbolt the bracket from the engine block, remove the 2 lower bolts and just loosen the top 2 bolts. This lets you lift up the bracket and easily swap the motor mount.
Motor Mounts Changed!
Thanks for all the help! The new motor mounts are installed and the truck runs like new! My wife actually said that I did a great job. Then she pointed out the greasy hand prints on the bumper. As someone stated in a post, I removed the ECM and drilled a hole in the bracket in order to reach the top bolt on the drivers side. I also removed the lower bracket with the motor mount, which required removed the front tire to reach to bolts. All in all, not a hard job thanks to all the suggestions. A little over 3 hour job including a trip to the hardware store for a 18mm deep socket. Thanks again!
Thanks for all the help! The new motor mounts are installed and the truck runs like new! My wife actually said that I did a great job. Then she pointed out the greasy hand prints on the bumper. As someone stated in a post, I removed the ECM and drilled a hole in the bracket in order to reach the top bolt on the drivers side. I also removed the lower bracket with the motor mount, which required removed the front tire to reach to bolts. All in all, not a hard job thanks to all the suggestions. A little over 3 hour job including a trip to the hardware store for a 18mm deep socket. Thanks again!
Just did mine as well and thought I was pretty tricky drilling that same hole under the ECM until I read your post.
One thing I do recommend is having something decent to cut the new mounts down with. I will say without a doubt a Dremel tool using that skinny cutting disk is pretty much worthless and will make this job WAYYYYY more difficult than it needs to be. Anyway, this was the rough idling problem that I've been chasing for 6 months...should have tried this earlier. Runs like a dream for the moment!Jere
I replaced my motor mounts with the after market stuff trying to save money. Just went back with dealer mounts, (kind of expensive), but what a difference!! It is quieter at startup, idle, gear change and while cruising. Wish I had done it right the first time.Just did mine as well and thought I was pretty tricky drilling that same hole under the ECM until I read your post.
Jere
Phoodieman
I just replaced the mounts on an '04. I used many of the tips in this thread. I used a dremel to cut off the excess, non-threaded portion of the new mount bolt.
There still wasn't enough clearance to get the new ones in. I jacked up one side at a time with the other still attached.
What I ended up doing was to hook a ratchet strap to the upper bracket and the offside wheel. This allowed me to rotate the engine just enough to get the new one in.
Probably not the professional way, but it worked like a charm.
There still wasn't enough clearance to get the new ones in. I jacked up one side at a time with the other still attached.
What I ended up doing was to hook a ratchet strap to the upper bracket and the offside wheel. This allowed me to rotate the engine just enough to get the new one in.
Probably not the professional way, but it worked like a charm.
I know this is an older thread and I hate to re-open it..
But are you just taking the tire off and going in via the wheel well liner? I have seen others do it that way on other cars but wasnt sure if that was needed here. It looks a bit tight but looks like maybe that is not needed.
If tires dont come off. Are you putting it ramps or anything or just sliding undef it while down low to make it easier to jack up the engine?
But are you just taking the tire off and going in via the wheel well liner? I have seen others do it that way on other cars but wasnt sure if that was needed here. It looks a bit tight but looks like maybe that is not needed.
If tires dont come off. Are you putting it ramps or anything or just sliding undef it while down low to make it easier to jack up the engine?
FYI for anyone looking to do a motor mount replacement. I did a video while doing mine (2005 Envoy EUV - I6)
They way I did it was remove the shocks/struts and dropped the bracket. I did film everything as the first side went really slow but I learned a lot by the time I got to the drivers side.
Hopefully this video would be helpful to anyone looking to do the same job.. first side took a couple hours, got it down to around an hour on the side that I filmed so hopefully it will be helpful to someone.. - https://youtu.be/Qc9MZzTMMwU
They way I did it was remove the shocks/struts and dropped the bracket. I did film everything as the first side went really slow but I learned a lot by the time I got to the drivers side.
Hopefully this video would be helpful to anyone looking to do the same job.. first side took a couple hours, got it down to around an hour on the side that I filmed so hopefully it will be helpful to someone.. - https://youtu.be/Qc9MZzTMMwU
61 - 80 of 84 Posts
Join the discussion
Join now to ask and comment!