[mmoniz]

First off I would like to thank all those that posted this info. It was a great help in getting my mounts changed, in about 2.5 hrs total. So I would like to contribute my experience in doing this that may add to what has already been posted, to hopefully make it a little easier on those that do this.

Tools I used:
18 MM deep socket
Swivel adapter for driver side top mount bolt.
A 1 inch or so "wobble" extension connected to swivel.
2 6 inch wobble extensions, though regular ones will work as well.
Swivel breaker ratchet.

The driver side top bolt was the only real challenge to get off, as it is directly underneath the computer, computer wiring connections and mounting bracket. I didn't want to screw up the wiring, so I removed the 3 wiring connectors, and the computer. Also removed upper bolts holding the fan shroud so as not to crack it when jacking up the motor.

Did like has been posted by others, removed both bolts from driver side and left the passenger side slightly threaded on.

Used 2 x 4 to the furthest right I could on oil pan and jacked up. Was able to get old one out. When trying to install new one, there wasn't enough room, as some have said. I noticed a sensor on the throttle body was hitting trying to jack up more.

I removed the crossbar going from fender to fender, which is what the sensor was hitting. This allowed me to jack up enough to easily slide the new one in, instead of having to grind it down.

Slightly threaded on bolts to the new one, then removed the bolts from passenger side. I then lowered the jack and moved it to the furthest left on the oil pan and raised it enough to remove old one, and had no issue with clearance putting in the new one.

Lowered engine back down and tightened all mount bolts. Re installed the crossbar, computer, and oil pan cover.

Started her up, smotth as new..finally! It was getting annoying.

So again, thanks to all those for posting the info prior to me. This site has saved me a lot of money, frustration, and time with my T-Blazer!

 

[Romero2408]

Thank you for your post - I was able to replace my mounts with your help

I have done it, its pretty easy! Took me a few mins each side.

This is the way I did them

1: secure the car on flat surface
2: unbolt the plastic covering the oil pan
3: Completely unbolt one of the motor mounts, theres a top bolt and a lower bolt. You will need a long extension for both and maybe even a breaker bar.
4: Loosen the opposite side mount, but leave the nuts threaded a bit.
5: Grab a decent jack and a piece of 2x4 or any wood to help protect the oil pan. Slowly start jacking up the oil pan just enough to give you enough room to slide the motor mount out.
6: Slide the new motor mount, making sure to line up the top and lower key holes, and now slowly lower the engine just enough to barely get the nuts on.
7: Do the same for the opposite side motor mount.
8: Carefully lower the engine, and tighten up the motor mount bolts.
9: Bolt back on the oil pan splash gaurd

Hello
Thank you for your post, your instructions were spot on. My situation I had to losssen the fan shroud, lossen the bottom mount brackets and drill an access hole to loosen the driver side mount but it all worked. As others have written my Envoy drives like a new car, it is amazing. My old mounts were only compressed a 1/2 inch or so but the new ones made all the difference.

( the access hole I drilled was maybe 3/8 of an inch to allow me to get my 3/8 drive extension and socket over the bolt ) the plate I drilled the hole was under the computer / circuit box )

Thanks again

 

[mubai]

I just did this, posted some stuff at gmt nation, in short, it sucked and will be on my "Not" to do again list. I'm at 185K miles, so I don't think I'll be doing this again.

 

[TrailblazrI6]

I just did this, posted some stuff at gmt nation, in short, it sucked and will be on my "Not" to do again list. I'm at 185K miles, so I don't think I'll be doing this again.

Congrats! To get them to last 185k miles, you are my hero! haha.

Ive done mine and it wasnt exactly how I wanted to spend my afternoon. I have 4 wheel drive and that definitely made the job more interesting....

 

[mubai]

They still didn't look that bad. The AC vibration stopped and when I'm stopped in gear, but I don't notice a big difference while driving.

 

[TrailblazrI6]

They still didn't look that bad. The AC vibration stopped and when I'm stopped in gear, but I don't notice a big difference while driving.

:thumbsup:

Its amazing how those mounts can cause so much vibration when they near the end of their serviceable life!

 

[3Green]

Did anyone have trouble with the fan shroud hitting the radiator hose? I'm almost there but don't want to break the rad to get the last .5-1 inch I need.

 

[BossMan]

Motor Mounts I-6

Just got completed with this job, 2 hours.Thanks to all for the posters :thx. Everything is spot on but the only issue I had was not loosening the opposite side enough. I would say the nut should be flush with the threads on the studs. A record for me only 1 busted knuckle and 1 cut finger

 

[3Green]

Anyone on here that says they did it in 2 hours or less doesn't have a 4x4.

How does anyone get to the driver side mount? It is required to loosen the top bolt to even get the right side one off. 18mm deep and swivel doesn't do enough to get under the computer to get it loosened.

Any ideas besides air impact rachet? No air here...old school.

 

[bugeyed]

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lawnranger
"I had to replace one of my motor mount brackets ( drivers side) , along with both motor mounts not too long ago. I pulled of the broken bracket and I attached the drivers side mount to the new bracket before attaching it to the engine. This made it so much easier to replace the motor mount since I didn't have to raise the engine that much. I ended up pulling the motor mount bracket, still attached to the motor mount on the passengers side off ( even though it was fine ) and attached the new motor mount to it and put it all back together."
So..... what does everyone think? Remove the brackets with the motor mounts or leave the brackets alone? I am going to replace mine in a few days, so it would be nice if removing the brackets makes it easier. Any down side to removing the brackets & mounts as one piece? Seems like a good way to inspect the brackets at the same time.
Lawnranger, can you elaborate on your procedure? I like details.

Thanks,
kev

 

[rbarrios]

Hello
(the access hole I drilled was maybe 3/8 of an inch to allow me to get my 3/8 drive extension and socket over the bolt ) the plate I drilled the hole was under the computer / circuit box

Sunday I Prepped the Trailblazer.
Changed oil, filter, checked air filter, cleaned throttle body, new wipers, and loosened the nuts...so its ready to go in a few days
I also drilled a hole in the plate-- so I can have direct access to the nut from above....

Mounts arrive THU.

 

[Mackskibum]

OK. For those with 4x4 this process is a little more involved. Just did mine yesterday on the 05 XL and you can not raise the engine high enough to get either side out without removing the engine side motor mount bracket. The inner CV joint hits the frame before enough clearance is achieved regardless of how tight you leave the opposite side mount. Here is what I did:

Remove splash shield
Remove left and right side lower mount nuts.
Remove air cleaner and intake pipe.
Remove right upper mount nut.
Remove ECM and bracket.
Remove left upper mount nut.
Jack engine up until fan hits shroud.
Remove 2 lower and one upper bolt from the engine side mounts. (you can access three of these from the wheel well with a LONG extension and a 15mm universal socket. The other one will have to be managed from the top).
Loosen the second upper bolt but do not remove (this makes it easier to reattach the bracket)
Manipulate the old mounts out.
Install the new mounts paying attention to the index pin and hole in the lower mount bracket.
Reinstall bolts into upper brackets and tighten.
Lower engine.
Install upper mount nuts.
Install ECM and bracket paying attention to the order of the connectors.
Install air cleaner and intake tube.
Install splash shield.

Allow for at least 3 hours or so. I took 4 hours but had to devise a method that didn't require removal of the axle shafts.

Worthwhile project- as others have said drives like new now.

 

[moody34]

Followed all the instructions in this thread. Four things I found mandatory are
1. drilling the hole in the plate above the driver's side mount after removing computer
2. grinding down the top stud on the driver's side replacement mount
3. remove fan from clutch to help engine movement
4. remove throttle body

I have a 2wd and it was still very trying to get enough room to remove and replace the driver's side mount because of the intake plenum hitting the firewall area. Passenger side was a piece of cake. Still worth a DIY, as it always is.

 

[Joel1]

Anyone know the torque, lb-ft, to tighten the nuts on the mounts?

Do I need to add blue loctite on the threads?

 

[pump]

Torque on engine mount nuts is 52lb-ft (70N-m).
Thread locker compound is not required.

 

[phoodieman]

I think this mount is broken.

2006 Trailblazer LT. I couldn't believe how torn up this mount was. Motor nearly jumped out of the truck when I goosed it. Loosened up the fan shroud. That helped but taking the bar off in the top back, (close to the windshield wipers), was what gave me clearance for some of the electronics that were in a bind.

 

[Joel1]

Thanks mmoniz and ibidu1 for your helpful advice and step by steps! Anyone who is going to do this job, just follow their posts above.

I found that it was absolutely necessary to drill the hole in the bracket and cut off the extra metal post on the top of the new mount to have enough clearance to get it in since the new mount was longer/uncompressed.

No more vibration!

 

[kamdog211]

I just did the install today. I don't know how you guys did it but I decided to take the bracket off to install the mounts in place. I tried jacking up the engine, but it kept on hitting the radiator pipe and I didn't want to crack it. I never managed to get enough clearance even while grinding down the top of the mount (it was almost there but never made it). Maybe I didn't jack it up far enough. It took me about 4.5 hours for everything.

Another note, I'm not sure how you guys do this without an impact gun. I fortunately had my snap on impact and it saved me a day of frustration trying to figure out how to turn a ratchet in that tight space.

The help on this thread made a lot of difference for me. The advice was great and you won't really know which approach is better until you get into the job and decide what is better.

 

[Champine]

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread, all of the various experiences helped me get my mounts installed yesterday. I used genuine GM mounts, ordered on Amazon for $147 total. Took me 10 hours to get them installed on my 2004 TB 4x4, which is much more than most. In my defense, it included 2 trips to the store to buy more 1/2" socket attachments.

I have a tendency to over think issues, and the design of this vehicle had me baffled more often than not. I too had to drill through the ECU mounting plate, which is maddening to me. While I understand that plate is designed to deflect heat around the ECU, does it really need to be bolted to the block in a way that is not accessible? And now that the I've drilled through it (3/4" diameter) am I exposing the ECU to more heat? I cannot for the life of me figure out how a trained mechanic would have tackled this. I needed to lossen the motor mount bracket (upper - attached the block) on both the driver and passenger sides, accessing through the wheel wells with long extensions (because the CV axle hit the frame and the studs on the old mount were so long). Tried to loosen the lower bracket, no help because the coil springs prevented the bolts from backing out far enough. Of course I had to cut the top off of the new mounts as many others have mentioned, I used a hacksaw (they are not hardened steel) so that went well.

After all is said and done, I'm happy to have tackled this - the vibration is completely gone. It was rough, no doubt about it, but the benefit (beyond saving hundreds of dollars) is that I learn more about the vehicle that I trust to carry my family, and about myself and how I solve problems / manage stress!

:thx

 

[kamdog211]

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread, all of the various experiences helped me get my mounts installed yesterday. I used genuine GM mounts, ordered on Amazon for $147 total. Took me 10 hours to get them installed on my 2004 TB 4x4, which is much more than most. In my defense, it included 2 trips to the store to buy more 1/2" socket attachments.

I have a tendency to over think issues, and the design of this vehicle had me baffled more often than not. I too had to drill through the ECU mounting plate, which is maddening to me. While I understand that plate is designed to deflect heat around the ECU, does it really need to be bolted to the block in a way that is not accessible? And now that the I've drilled through it (3/4" diameter) am I exposing the ECU to more heat? I cannot for the life of me figure out how a trained mechanic would have tackled this. I needed to lossen the motor mount bracket (upper - attached the block) on both the driver and passenger sides, accessing through the wheel wells with long extensions (because the CV axle hit the frame and the studs on the old mount were so long). Tried to loosen the lower bracket, no help because the coil springs prevented the bolts from backing out far enough. Of course I had to cut the top off of the new mounts as many others have mentioned, I used a hacksaw (they are not hardened steel) so that went well.

After all is said and done, I'm happy to have tackled this - the vibration is completely gone. It was rough, no doubt about it, but the benefit (beyond saving hundreds of dollars) is that I learn more about the vehicle that I trust to carry my family, and about myself and how I solve problems / manage stress!

:thx

I was able to get the top mount nut off without having to drill a hole in the ECU plate by using a deep socket, a universal joint, extension and impact gun. After I was able to loosen the top nut, I had to use a ratchet to take the rest of the nut off. I don't see why it was designed this way. I had to remove the entire mount bracket because I could not jack the engine high enough to get clearance. but the good news is that the mounts were replaced at 160k so with any luck, this will be the last time I mess with motor mounts on this Envoy.