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2006 chevy trailblazer_lt
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Discussion Starter #1
So I didn't know where else to start this thread. I'm from the midwest, in Lafayette, IN, and when you have 4 different tracks within 80 miles of your town, you have a lot of souped up muscle cars. Me and my buddy are wanting to turn our trucks into racers that will humble the mustang and camaros in the area. My buddy's got a 2001 ford ranger and already has a Hurst Billet Shifter in it. But I haven't started on my truck yet. I don't know where to start. My truck is an all-stock Vortec 4.2 I6 and I don't know what to do first to bring out the beast. I don't even have enough power to the rear end right now to even spin the tires. :( I want to go down to ORP and race street legals soon and I know I'm not even going to make it past the first round unless they give me something like a hummer to race. and even then I don't have enough confidence to win. Does anyone have suggestions on what I can do to start modifying it?
 

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True cold air intake. Make one yourself, plenty of threads around here.

pcmforless tune. Best overall investment I have made.

Exhaust. Fund a good flowing muffler and have a shop run some 3 inch piping.

I have all these and it makes a huge difference. Mine will spin my 33's.

I live right by ORP so let me know if you come down.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
:iagree:

How much hourse power did the shifter add to the ford?:duh:
None. But it shifts a whole hell of a lot faster than it did.

And hardtrailz, I'm hoping to head down and race tomorrow. It just depends if I can get the gas tank filled. I was hoping you could maybe meet me at the track too. I have a few questions about the front and rear bumbers and an aftermarket right front fender that is too small. The person who owned the truck before me wasn't very smart.
 

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2007 chevy trailblazer_ls
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FWIW, at ORP, the Tuesday "street legal drags" is not "racing", and there are no "rounds" to make it out of... It goes like this:

Everybody comes and goes when they want to... you come in when you can get there, and pay your money at the gate, and you're good...

There is a line for left lane and a line for right lane... You get in one of these lines...

Bikes and cars trade off... Cars go for a while, then bikes go for a while... No cars and bikes at the same time on the track, ever.

When the cars go, you just stay in your line until it's your turn to run...

When it's your turn, GO AROUND THE WATER!!!, NOT THROUGH IT! If you feel like you need to heat your tires up (you don't, stock, in this vehicle), then back the rear tires into the water to get them wet, then pull out of the water to spin them... DO NOT SPIN THEM IN THE WATER POOL!... This spins the water up into your wheel wells, and wets down the start line while you're sitting there waiting to go...

The track has traction compound on it... Astroglide is the only thing slicker than traction compound with water on it! I A-L-M-O-S-T wrecked my motorcycle when some F--- in a Neon pulled the front wheels into the water and spun them, then drove the rear wheels through the water right after that... Wet down the starting line, and my tire spun like CRAZY! Sideways, back and forth 4 times, and finally saved it... People laughing and such, until the guy behind me pulled up to the start line, and it was so slick that his foot slipped and he dropped his bike, standing still... Don't be "that guy" who waters down the track! (though, there are a bunch of "that guys" there...) It'll also put FWD cars into the wall, as well as RWD... A friend of mine did that, there, as well...

After you've gone around the water pit, get in line with were you want to be, and pull up, slowly... The top light will turn on when your tire passes the first sensor, and the second one will turn on when it gets to the front sensor... When both lights are on, on both sides, the guy will hit the button, and you'll go...

Your launch should be like so:

-Put the selector in 3rd (I've posted a bunch of times why you want to be in 3rd while beating on the trans)

-Stand on the brake pedal, and when the tree starts, mash the gas

- You react to the last yellow light, NOT the green... You look at the bottom yellow (right above the green), and when it comes on, you let off the brake and go...

- When you get to the end of the 1/4 mile, let off and slow down, then take one of the exits to your left... IF YOU ARE IN THE RIGHT LANE, MAKE SURE YOU KNOW WHERE THE GUY IN THE LEFT LANE IS!! If you cross before he does, and you get slowed down faster, and make your left turn, he will hit you in the side, as you cross his lane to leave! I usually like to take the turn-off after the guy in the left lane takes his...

- Stop at the white shack and get your times slip

- Go back and get in line and wait, again...

- While in line, don't run your A/C! Remember the water thing? Even if you turn it off well before you get up there, your AC will drip water all the way down the track!

Mike
 

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Hey Mike, whats it cost to just go watch since I live so close. i have not been to a track since last year watching my buddy at Putnum
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Its $20 now. It was $15 about halfway through the summer. But I checked the site the other night and they raised it.
 

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Question to the OP:

Are you looking to make your truck into a drag car because you already have it and you want to see what is possible? Or are you just looking to get into drag racing?

If you just want to start drag racing I can think of numerous ways to do it cheaper than trying to launch a 5000lb brick.

It costs a ton of money to make our trucks go really fast. I know several SS guys that keep trying to make a drag truck and it does take some serious dough to make a
go-fast truck and most people loose interest when they "hit the wall" both in time and money. Yes there are a few that have done it but I venture to say it took lots of $$$ to make that happen.

You may want to ask yourself that question first, especially since you have the 4.2 currently. No disrepect to the I6, it's purpose was to be a fantastic powerplant for our SUV and it does that all day long.

:m2:
 

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Haha, it's been 2-3 years since I've been there...

Even on a 10-second bike, going straight in 1/4 mile is nowhere near as good as dragging a knee, going around a circle with 10 turns and a 160mph front straight...

I'm not opposed to going, but it's just not my scene... Supposed to be 92 tomorrow, though, so times will SUCK...

Mike
 

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sell it and buy an SS.... there is very little to no aftermarket for the I6...

or a Jeep SRT8. With either vehicle...then add driveline upgrades,weight reduction, and some forced induction...THeN you will have a drag truck ;)


here is an example of how a brick can go fast.....don't HATE on it cuz its not an SS either...you gotta give this guy props for a time like that :D

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QXY_RibGSEg&feature=related
 

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2007 chevy trailblazer_ls
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Question to the OP:

Are you looking to make your truck into a drag car because you already have it and you want to see what is possible? Or are you just looking to get into drag racing?

If you just want to start drag racing I can think of numerous ways to do it cheaper than trying to launch a 5000lb brick.

It costs a ton of money to make our trucks go really fast. I know several SS guys that keep trying to make a drag truck and it does take some serious dough to make a
go-fast truck and most people loose interest when they "hit the wall" both in time and money. Yes there are a few that have done it but I venture to say it took lots of $$$ to make that happen.

You may want to ask yourself that question first, especially since you have the 4.2 currently. No disrepect to the I6, it's purpose was to be a fantastic powerplant for our SUV and it does that all day long.

:m2:
+1

Having said that, this vehicle would be very good at bracket racing, being a computer-controlled, auto transmission, brick, that won't spin the tires from a start... Lots of guys bracket race with rented FWD cars, because they're really, really consistant, in stock form...

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Honestly I want to do both. I want to get into drag racing more and I have a 97 tbird at home I could work on. But I like the forum here and the people I've talked to already are pretty cool. Plus the TB is just a sexy suv. Especially the SS's.
 

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you could do this, I think it would be fun/funny. I would still cost alot of money though.

here is a guy that did it with an SS. I dont know why you would replace an LS2, but it could work well in a non SS, If you could get everything to fit.

Also I had a 96 T-Bird R.I.P It would be much easier if its a 4.6L All Mustang parts fit perfectly.
 

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you could do this, I think it would be fun/funny. I would still cost alot of money though.

here is a guy that did it with an SS. I dont know why you would replace an LS2, but it could work well in a non SS, If you could get everything to fit.

Also I had a 96 T-Bird R.I.P It would be much easier if its a 4.6L All Mustang parts fit perfectly.
If done would be a complete waste of time. The Supra engine powers a vehicle half the weight of our platform. Besides the video is a complete fake or they would have shown the engine installed. And If I wasted all that money for a smoke show only...(fill in the blank).
 

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Discussion Starter #16
actually. it just so happens that it is a 4.6. but its a v6. so what i planned on doing is ripping the v6 out and putting a mustang v8 in and turboing the hell out of it.
 

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If you REALLY wanted to get into it with your TB, you'd have to either fab a TT or supercharge kit onto your I6 or build a new LSx engine. THEN, you'd have to beef up the trans and the whole drivetrain. The SS comes with a 14bolt rear diff that's near bulletproof. Then beef up your fuel system.


Here's a vid of the world's fastest TBSS that did LOW 9's like 2 yrs ago:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I-N4MJUNUO0

There are now two, this one and FastLane's out of Houston that run near 8 seconds in the 1320. They both have over a LOT of $$$$ into them, above the cost of the trucks themselves.
 

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if it says 4.6L then it is the modular V8.

The engines for the 10th gen are:
3.8 L Essex V6 (1989–1997)
3.8 L Essex Supercharged V6 (1989–1995 Super Coupe only)
4.9 L (302 cu in) Windsor 5.0 V8 (1991–1993)
4.6 L Modular V8 (1994–1997)

so, if its a 4.6L it is a mustang V8 no engine swap needed.
 

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The SS comes with a 14bolt rear diff that's near bulletproof. .
There's a whole lot of major failures on them to consider them "bullet-proof," IMO...

Also, just to straighten things out a bit, this is NOT the 14-bolt in the 3/4HD and 1-ton trucks, that really was "bullet proof"... This is a C-clip 9.5" Semi-floating axle, and the real "GM 14-bolt" is a 10.5" full floater.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #20
No. Were going to swap the V6 from the tbird for the V8 and put the V8 in the tbird.
 
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