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2007 chevy trailblazer_ls
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
So I recently ordered every bulb possible before ripping apart the dash to be converted to LED's instead of the regular bulbs. I noticed people had been talking about flasher relays and other bulbs causing instances where the fuses could blow. I decided I'd be that person who doesn't take that risk and just save the small instance that could piss you off so easily by buying the LM487 relay to allow for the lower voltage LED's to work as a regular bulb would. Ok so...my question is -

Does this help in any way with HID's and having to have the DRL Killers (capacitor or relay fix)/flickering issue. Would I still need to do the capacitor or relay mod? And...which is better?

Also, it states that cruise control may not work correctly. "Cruise control may not work because led lights are so energy efficient that they do think the brake lights work and warn you not to use cruise contol. To fix The problem use led load light eqaulizers." (from ledlight.com)

For these LED load light equalizers...is this the bulb itself being matched to the regular bulbs wattage? Or is it another part? (I feel like this is a dumb question...)

Bottom line...do I really need this relay (even though I bought it)?? I didn't think this conversion would be so expensive....:ugh:

Any help greatly appreciated - sorry for such a long post.



I started reading deeper in the sticky - and feel a little better about the purchase....any help still appreciated.:bonk:
 

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2005 chevy
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So I recently ordered every bulb possible before ripping apart the dash to be converted to LED's instead of the regular bulbs.
Nice! You have my attention :D

Does this help in any way with HID's and having to have the DRL Killers (capacitor or relay fix)/flickering issue. Would I still need to do the capacitor or relay mod? And...which is better?
The flasher relay deals with the turn signals only. Has nothing to do with your HIDs. Which is better between the cap mod and DRL killer depends on your mission. They are the heads and tails on opposite sides of a coin. :coffee

Also, it states that cruise control may not work correctly. "Cruise control may not work because led lights are so energy efficient that they do think the brake lights work and warn you not to use cruise contol. To fix The problem use led load light eqaulizers." (from ledlight.com)
This has been seen to be the case if you have LEDs in the brake light sockets. In the cases where members have manufactured LED assemblies like the Depo (which I have) or ICPW ones, then your cruise control will be fine, as they have built in load resistors in them. :yes:

For these LED load light equalizers...is this the bulb itself being matched to the regular bulbs wattage? Or is it another part? (I feel like this is a dumb question...)

Bottom line...do I really need this relay (even though I bought it)?? I didn't think this conversion would be so expensive....:ugh:

Any help greatly appreciated - sorry for such a long post.
I don't remember the exact science behind them, so I'll let someone else chime in on that. It comes down to, if you are putting LEDs in the front and tail turn signals, and don't want to splice in load resistors, then the relay is the easy way to go.

If you want to keep your cruise control, LED bulbs in the brake lights may cause you to lose it without load resistors on those sockets. So the decision is yours. :undecided
 

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2007 chevy trailblazer_ls
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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks....I'm guessing I will have to do the load resistors....not sure how though.:undecided
 

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2005 chevy trailblazer_lt_ext
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I know this is an ancient thread, but thought a reply would be good, for when it pops up in searches.

Use your existing 12450284 signal relay, open it up and replace the metal resistor strip with a .1 Ohm / 5 watt resistor. Hyperflash fixed and cruise control continues to work.
 
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