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'05 Chevy TB EXT
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4,365 Posts
It's not an easy jpb. Check the fluid level and if it's close to full, I'd just keep it full with small additions until it gets stupid and leaks worse ... THEN you've gotta take it out and reseal it.

There are some areas that will require special attention if/when you do the removal to reseal it.

Your choice --- but this is the same boat in which I am riding right now too.
 

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2005 Chevy Trailblazer LS
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48 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It's not an easy jpb. Check the fluid level and if it's close to full, I'd just keep it full with small additions until it gets stupid and leaks worse ... THEN you've gotta take it out and reseal it.

There are some areas that will require special attention if/when you do the removal to reseal it.

Your choice --- but this is the same boat in which I am riding right now too.
What would need special attention? How many seals would need replacing? Thanks
 

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Premium Member
'05 Chevy TB EXT
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4,365 Posts
Thre are Torrington type bearings that are semi-sealed and don't get lubrication from the reservoir in the differential housing.
Get all the seals you need BEFORE you take it out.​
Reread the above line!​
Twice!​
Seriously!​
 

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2003 chevy trailblazer_ltz
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539 Posts
The CV shaft seal for the left CV shaft can be done with the differential in-place. Been there, done that.

The pinion seal where the driveshaft yoke is, should be do-able with the differential in place, but it'll be a pain in the tuckus to get the preload correct on reassembly. Didn't need to replace mine, but looks accessible.

The differential seal for the right-side output into the actuator and then the CV shaft will require Klingon curse-words. I'm reasonably certain the folks at the shop I went to installed the seal with the differential in-place--they didn't charge me for a pan gasket, and they didn't take a week to do the job. But they wouldn't admit to short-cutting the service-manual procedure, either.

I think--but cannot verify--that they dug the seal out of the differential by going through the hole in the oil pan using some sort of "special tools"; and then popped the new seal in place the same way.

So...in the end, the right-side differential output seal is a mystery to me.

The front differential holds about seven molecules of lube. If yours leaks, you'd better top it off every few hundred miles or it runs dry and you burn it up. I did that for about a year, and then stuffed a left-side seal into it--which eliminated about 3/4 of my leakage. Getting rid of the remaining leakage took a visit to the shop, 'cause I wasn't going to pull the pan. But like I said...I don't think they pulled the pan, either.
 
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