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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm trying to repair the 4L60E transmission of my 2004 Trailblazer 4x4 but I have and issue to remove the input drum, I already removed the band but the drum seems to be stuck...any suggestions?
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'05 Chevy TB EXT
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Looks to me that the 2/4 band anchor pin is still in the case ---- how'd you get the band out?

Get a flat screwdriver and shove it between that front drum and the pin and force the pin out ....

You should be able to grab that input shaft and jerk it out --- the drum will come with it unless something oddball failed ---

You'll find that real Vice-Grip pliers fit the splines perfectly and make a handy tool to pull it out.

WHY are you repairing this unit? You did say "repair" and not "overhaul" --- is that right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm trying to rebuild it, the 3-4 clutch pack is burned, the problem is not the pin or the band, I think the planet and clutches, I found some thread with others guys with the same problem and the installed again the bell and let drop the transmission over the bell to force it
 

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"others guys with the same problem and the installed again the bell and let drop the transmission over the bell to force it "

HUH?

Translate, please...............
 

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2002 Chevrolet TrailBlazer LTZ 4.2L
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I think he's saying that other dudes doing the same work had the same problem, so they reattached the bell housing and dropped it face down in the hope that the shock and impact would knock the drum loose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
"others guys with the same problem and the installed again the bell and let drop the transmission over the bell to force it "

HUH?

Translate, please...............
🤣🤣🤣 you're right, I don't know what I wrote there...what I mean is I will try to drop the transmission over the bell to use the inertial force, some guys did it and it worked for them
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_lt
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Just
Looks to me that the 2/4 band anchor pin is still in the case ---- how'd you get the band out?

Get a flat screwdriver and shove it between that front drum and the pin and force the pin out ....

You should be able to grab that input shaft and jerk it out --- the drum will come with it unless something oddball failed ---

You'll find that real Vice-Grip pliers fit the splines perfectly and make a handy tool to pull it out.

WHY are you repairing this unit? You did say "repair" and not "overhaul" --- is that right?
This is precisely the method to do it.. Slide the flat in between the drum and band, at the band anchor point, bop-pry the screwdriver handle, and the anchor pin will pop 1/8" or more, sometimes completely out.. Then withdraw the input drum, mostly straight out, with some jiggling.

The band pushes the pin end up.

Sometimes you might have to go between the band and the case at the anchor point, and try to catch the pin edge, end, or step.

If those pictures are yours, then you already have the band out, so the screwdriver flat presses against the input drum and the anchor pin tip.
 

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There is another thing that can happen here, if the input drum was abused... The rear edge of the input drum has fingers, and in cases where the input was really over reved, the fingers will actually flair out, jamming against the case.

Other things can jam the input drum, none of them normal, since the input and out are only coupled by clutches, and are more like a shish kebab.. strung on two shafts, and the two shafts separated by bearing and bushings, able to independently turn, except when coupled by the drums and clutches through the planetary gears.

With band and band anchor removed, much jiggling usually will free the input drum, allowing removal. Slamming the case down (with bell attached) will probably not help, and may just jam things worse.

If the input drum is stuck because of the 3-4 clutch pack, it is probably welded from spinning. Even so, the input should still come out with much jiggling. If you cannot jiggle the input shaft, you may end up having to cut the entire input section apart with an abrasive disk.. This kind of damage is from no fluid, exceptional torque/load, attempted driving after obvious clutch failure, high RPM, in other words, abuse.
 

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This video:
at time mark 10:30 and following...Richard at Precision Transmission removes the band anchor and input drum from a 4L60E. He shows, in other videos, the flared input drum fingers.
 

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I've seen "hooked" clutches where they cut into the reverse drum and they are very hard to disengage --- or the input drum has cracked and grenaded, because of "Neutral-Drops" where the driver holds the engine near red line in Neutral and drops the gearshift into Drive.

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PINCH-SQUEEZE THAT PICTURE TO FIND THE CORRUPTION ... ON LINE A AND/OR LINE B


No matter --- it needs a rebuild and maybe a LOT of hard parts and that's the way it is --- so just get 'er done.

I'd grab that input shaft like I said and slam-hammer it out - all the time wiggling it with MUCHO gusto --- it has to come apart, that's obvious ... and you've not gonna hurt anything that isn't already junk.

Get physical!

Here's an audio-visual aid for you to help understand the principle of physicality ....

 
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