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Discussion Starter #1
So currently I am having an issue where I try to start my TB and it clicks repeatedly but does not turn over..SOMETIMES. Sometimes it starts first try, other times I have to try and start it, leave in the ACC position for a minute, and then retry with varied success.

A little information:
2006 TB 4x4, Manual climate controls if that matters
Car does have remote start that has had a few minor issues of starting, instantly shutting off, and then restarting just fine
Recently replaced an aftermarket head unit with a new aftermarket head unit (10 in screen from China ?) and I BELIEVE thats when my issues started
I have installed countless head units with no issues
I did forget a wire that was attached to a bolt behind the radio to ground out the video on previous unit (not attached to the new one at all, was left hanging for a few days but now removed)
I read reviews of the new unit and people said to attach all ACC and battery wires together (so 4 wires total) which I did not do and unit was working fine until the issues started

Again, unit was working fine for about a week. No issues starting the car or any problems with the stereo. Then intermittently the stereo began powering off while driving. No sound, no display, nothing. Then, after this was an issue is when the issue began with starting the car.

Aside from stereo installs, I HATE dealing with wiring so I am fairly lost as to what this could be. Does not seem like it would be a battery issue but I have noticed my battery gauge be all of the above: normal level, extremely high (past 19), and possibly lower than 12 on ACC.

Really hoping someone can help me figure this out. Not sure if it would be Antitheft, Alternator, a Relay, etc. All the fuses I have checked have been fine so far

Thanks everyone, pweez help
 

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I had started having mysterious starting issues too..... and I hadn't changed anything.

But I had the total loss of dash functions, lights and radio tuner memory.

Believing it to be a bad ground.... 'cause many if not most electrical faults are ground-related..... I found that to be a dead end.

But then I noticed the pungent smell of battery electrolyte..... it was a broken Positive (+) post seal and the acid had created corrosion between the post bolt and the cable eyelet/flange.

I washed everything with fresh water, wire brushed gently then dried well and gobbled on some Ultra Clear RTV and put it back together again.... hopefully to get me a week or so until I could get to the big city to buy a new battery.

So far ---> so good ..... but I know its just a very temporary fix
 

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Starting problems (those where starter does not engage) can usually be caused by, bad starter, bad starter relay, bad ignition switch, bad battery or faulty battery cables.
 

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Starting problems (those where starter does not engage) can usually be caused by, bad starter, bad starter relay, bad ignition switch, bad battery or faulty battery cables.
I think that's a good idea too --- except that the OP stated this:
  • "Then intermittently the stereo began powering off while driving. No sound, no display, nothing. Then, after this was an issue is when the issue began with starting the car. "
....then he goes on to say:
  • "Does not seem like it would be a battery issue but I have noticed my battery gauge be all of the above: normal level, extremely high (past 19), and possibly lower than 12 on ACC. "
... which leads me to think it's a major battery cable connection. If the battery comes out of the circuit during driving or KOER, the voltage regulator will go nuts and jump the charge outta sight to pump up what it 'sees' as a totally dead; yet an ambient-ly warm battery [NOTE 1].

... the part that he said;
  • ...(ibid) lower than 12 on ACC"
... takes me to the thought that the battery is not really being charged much, if at all, and it only shows during KOEO.

This would be the situation found with a major loss of cable continuity - but there may be other mitigating problems too. I'm open for that.

_

This is gonna be interesting to find out what the problem is.... let's keep an open mind here until something actually works because we (you and I) are on the internet..... whereas the OP is where the car is.

That said ---> I still love surprises!

_

NOTE 1 - the temperature of the vehicle's battery is inferred by the actual 'cold start/ambient' & operating temperature of the alternator - according to my friends at Bosch Rebuilders in SoCal. The 'ambient sensor' is in the circuit of the alternator charging control board.... but everybody knows that already, I hope.

Battery temperature is critical for correctly charging because of not only bat-crazy, high voltage accessory loads (the Cabin Thermal & Light-Load circuit comes to mind here*) and other OE or add-on high-current drawing, power-sucking accessories.

* - YES ---> The Ravalli Surfer is doing some technical research as I do NOT intend to remain ignorant about my own vehicle.... even if I never saw a TB before my son gave me this one!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys for the responses and info! So I finally have the day off and I'm currently taking a look at it.

Bought and installed ignition switch. Still waiting for the rest of the 30 min reset before I reconnect the battery.

Both pos and neg terminals look fine. That being said, if I continue to tighten the neg (have not checked pos yet) it will reloosen a little. Obviously I can tighten it as tight as I can before it slips but I feel like this shouldn't be a thing, although I have been wrong many times before and please correct me if that is the case. It is the rubber side connectors so it's possible.

With the wild fluctuations of the battery that I have seen, am I wrong in thinking the alternator is possibly bad?
I've been driving my other car for the last few days though so I have no update on recent behavior.

Thanks again and keep the info coming!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Also, what are your thoughts on the idea of antitheft? I've heard that idea a couple times but was skeptical due to the fact that it starts sometimes
 

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Discussion Starter #7
UPDATE

So looking at both terminals earlier, the neg would tighten and reloosen ; the pos would just keep turning. Leaving the key in ACC I could hear the chimes go on and off by playing with the pos cable. So I replaced the terminal bolts; they both completely tightened and it started right up. Given the fact the problem was intermittent this sounds completely plausible and believe its fixed but I'm not counting out other issues quite yet until consistency in starting. Especially due to the incredible coincidence of when everything took place.

Left the car on for awhile and the radio started shutting off again. Started playing around with it and moving the unit around I found consistency in the unit shutting off. So I'm going to recheck all wires and connections and hope these two problems just happened to show up at exactly the same time.

Fingers crossed and I'll keep you guys updated. Thanks again for all the help!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Annndddd another update

Figured out the radio issue. Believe that was coincidental.
Believe I fixed one issue with the terminals but...
Car was running great, left it running, and then it died.
Accessories still worked but once I tried to start the car...nothing. Not a click or anything. I can hear the fuel pump turning on. This leads me back to the alternator.

Thoughts?
 

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The bolts in the battery side posts are never to be overtigtened.

Use a short 5/16" six point wrench and just make it snug - there's a torque spec for it, but with what you said - the battery is likely destroyed already.

You might try a regular stud in place of the bolts... but that's tricky and you can drive the stud into the battery plates and COULD create an explosion if you go too far. Plates DO NO like to be shorted together! Be careful.

That's where to start and I bet that's all you'll need - although that anti-theft system doesn't sound like it's a real problem. It's MAYBE responding to an inconsistent battery voltage.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yeah this battery was in it when I bought it and looks like theres some wear on the actual battery terminals. I'm assuming from previous owner threading out the old terminal bolts and aggressively trying to get the bolts to stay in.

I'm gonna go out and make sure the bolts arent too tight and try jumping it to see if that helps. If not I'll either try a new battery Thursday or try to borrow someones to see if it makes a difference.

What are your thoughts on the fact that it was running, headlights and interior lights still power on, and all dash lights shut off as I try to crank as they should? Could that still be a battery issue?
 

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That's exactly what a busted battery does. Or a faulty cable connection - but you have a cable-to-battery problem with the bolts going 'round-n-'round.

The battery IS the problem and if you continue to try to make it work - you might do some serious damage to electronic things that do not like voltage spikes and no voltage reference to the regulator to control the alternator maximum output.

Just get a battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So even though I bought new battery terminal bolts and they fit up snug (no more going round n round) you think too much damage was already done to the battery?

AGAIN, sincerely appreciate all the help
 

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I cannot see the battery from here - but I'd bet that there's an internal connection that's intermittent and not trustworthy.

Borrow a battery if you can - but do not overtighten the side bolts!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I know you told me to not keep trying to make it run but I'm reckless because all stores are closed cause coronaV so I hooked my other car up to it to see if I can jumpstart it. Gave it a minute and started right up.
Does that change your diagnosis at all or still think I need to not drive it and get a new battery?
 

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C'mon... beg, borrow or steal a replacement battery and then test it. This becomes redundant at this point.


You've got a bad connection somewhere ---> a bad/broken cable end - bad starter cable connex at the starter - bad electrical panel under the hood (the place with all the fuses and relays on the driver's side) - and since the battery was the first culprit you found with the bolts twisting and not getting tight - well, that's a bad scene.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
And once I'm able to I will. Have to be up at 6 for a 12 hour shift so I figured I'd test what I could with what I had. Never had a car die while it was connected to cables so figured I'd ask.
Hopefully be able to find a replacement battery Thursday to test
 

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What you're doing with all this testing and trying to diagnose with jumper cables and still having a problem, just makes it harder to get a hook into your solution.

IF you violate a logic tree here, you'll find you're doing more work, spending more money and still won't have it repaired.

Let's solve the one diagnosis first and see where that goes.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I know, I know but I have an issue of overthinking everything and coming up with 339 reasons why something could be wrong lol but I'm going to pick up my stepdads Silverado tomorrow that has the same size battery to swap them out and see what happens. Fingers crossed
 
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