[gahammerle]

Just replaced my idler pulley. When I took the old pulley off, the bolt seemed a little too easy to take off. After I put the new pulley on and tightened the bolt, I started engine and began to watch the belt to make sure it was all lined up correctly. That's when I noticed the idler pulley bolt wiggling back and forth. I shut the engine off, tightened the bolt back up, started engine, and watched the bolt. It stayed put for a few seconds and then it started moving. I tightened it up a little more and tried again - still moving. Tightened up even more - still moving.

Anyone else have that issue? Does that bolt need some kind of thread lock or something on it?

 

[the roadie]

Listed torque for that bolt is 37 ft-lbs.; no thread lock specified.

If that's not holding it, there might be grease/oil on the threads and you'll have to clean them. Or use loctite - if I had this problem I'd use the non-permanent type. :yes:

 

[gahammerle]

I couldn't get my torque wrench to fit in there (got one of those old-fashioned kinds) so I was guessing at the torque. The first time I figured I was either just below or right around 37. Second time, I made a little tighter. Third time, I know I went beyond 37.

I don't recall seeing any grease or dirt on the threads of the bolt, but obviously didn't check the hole. I'll check those again in the morning, and if all clean, give some loctite a try.

 

[Super 88]

If you aren't the original owner of the vehicle, are you sure the correct bolt is in there? Like maybe the one in there is too long? I've had mine off a couple of times, and don't remember using a torque wrench but never had any trouble with it coming loose.

Let me take that back - the first time I replaced mine I got a slightly different designed pulley and I used the washer from the original pulley. That didn't work. So I took the washer off using just the bolt and it's worked fine ever since.

Roadie - are you sure about 37 ft-lbs.? It seems a little high to me. That's what is listed for the tensioner, but I couldn't find a listing for the idler pulley.
I might be wrong, but I just don't remember mine being that tight.

 

[the roadie]

Roadie - are you sure about 37 ft-lbs.?

Both idler and tensioner are listed at 37, adjacent to each other in the 2004 shop manual.

 

[Super 88]

Both idler and tensioner are listed at 37, adjacent to each other in the 2004 shop manual.

Okay, I apologize. Someone else just sent me a pm saying the same thing. I just don't remember it being that tight. I've been turning wrenches for a lot of years, decades actually and I have a pretty good idea of how tight 37 ft lbs is.

Maybe mine came from the factory a little loose - who knows.

Makes me want to go check it and make sure it's tight. But it can wait until tomorrow when it's light outside!

 

[eeehabt]

Hi,

Have you tried using a lock washer? the one that looks broken. I think it will do.
But, make sure the bolt is the original or the same.

 

[gahammerle]

OK, took the bolt back out to put loctite on and I guess I put a little too much torque on it yesterday because the cup washer was distorted. I put it back to its original shape as best I could and put the loctite on. Leaving it sit for about an hour before I start it up.

In case I need one, anyone know where to get a new cup washer?

 

[gahammerle]

Loctite didn't hold. Now, the cup washer is spinning with the pulley, I can turn the bolt by hand, and I can rub a gray powder off of it - I'm assuming from the cup washer rubbing against the bolt.

Where can I get a new cup washer? Is it dealer only? Looks like it is designed with a lip that presses against the bearings on the pulley - so the bolt would put pressure on that lip to hold the bearing steady while the pulley spins around the bearing. Not sure if I removed the cup washer that the bolt would line up and hold the bearing still allowing the pulley to spin freely.

 

[gahammerle]

OK, I think we have success.

After doing a little more searching, I learned it is not a cup washer, but a dust shield. Took the new pulley out and compared to the old and saw they are sized differently and the dust shield was too large to fit inside the new pulley - so as I was tightening the bolt, it was distorting the dust shield because the lip wasn't in contact with the bearing - the outer edges of the dust shield were hitting the pulley first. So, I compared the bolt to the bearing and saw it would make good contact with it and not overlap onto the pulley, I did as suggested and just used the bolt. Now, it doesn't move. :thumbsup:

Of course, I still have whine which I now suspect is my AC clutch bearing. :bonk:

Edit: Normally, when I replace a part, I like to make sure all the parts I removed are put back - I don't like having leftover parts when I'm finished. Guess in this case, it's OK to have the dust shield as a leftover.

 

[rbarrios]

when I replaced the idler pulley- the box said that the new part- had a sealed bearing--- and that the dust shield was not necessary.
I simply used the original bolt- and its held in place for about 15,000 miles so far.

 

[gahammerle]

Wish my box would have said that Would have saved me a lot of time. I just took it for a drive with just the bolt holding it, and it hasn't moved, so I'm thinking I'm good to go.