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Identify this part covered in oil?

458 Views 8 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  sigkap977
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Sorry phone acted silly.

Cleaned TB yesterday, noticed oil coming from this part. Not super mechanically inclined but trying to fix most issues on my own if possible.

What is this that's obviously leaking oil and any suggestions as to why it is would be appreciated

Thanks in advance
It actually looks like your sound deadener is full of oil and it's gotten to the throttle body and it's leaking at the inlet clamp.

It appears the oil is there because of an inoperative PCV system.

Here's some questions to answer first -- it's likely they DO pertain to this problem ...

1. Is there a brown - chocolate brown mayonnaise inside your oil cap and all over the dipstick?
2. If you look under the sound chamber, there's a small "s-shaped" hose... is it wet with oil too?​


Here's a video to watch if you have a YES to either of those two questions ....


.
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Okay so the hose he is talking about dumping a cap full of cleaner into is the S shaped one (atmospheric side) or the vacuum side?
You're not watching --- I've watched that guy's video a few times and I knew after the first time that the Berryman's B-12 Chemtool (liquid, not spray) goes into that black hose he is pointing to and you only have to take the top hose clamp off and it's possible to service the CV-side by repeated treatments of the B-12.

If you do this to a hot, previously run engine --- the B-12 vapors will be at their working best-strength.

Since you have the chocolate mayonnaise in your engine for failing to service the PCV at regular intervals --- you have a lot of treatments ahead of you and you cannot expect instant success.

That chocolate mayonnaise will rust your cam V.V.T. mechanism and cost you mo' money, mo' money -------------> if it hasn't already done so.

You can damage your cam, and the cam followers, and think of this:
EVERY time you shut the engine off and the water that causes the oil to create the chocolate mayonnaise, settles out --- you get a big puddle of water at the lowest point in the engine --- the oil pan.​

The oil pan is where the oil pump pickup screen lives and when the engine is cranked the next morning --- the first thing that the pump moves through the engine, is that water.
You will be lubricating all your engine bearings (cam, crank, rods, etc) with water,​
.... and water is NOT a good lubricant for bearings and such.​
In the end --- you are the master of your ship --- if you chose to ignore my warnings, and the warnings of that exceptionally kind and utterly nice guy who made that video --- you will pay for the damage to your engine sooner or later.

EDITED on 05/21/32 for seriously bad typos and failure of my spellclunker to tell me I goofed up. Sorry.
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Thank you ravalli I watched again and have been treating it twice a week with hopes of improvement
If there is evidence of chocolate mayonnaise. Would you suggest that it's now in the oil pan and should replace the oil pan and components entirely, along with the PCV regular maintenance? I understand that any damage that has been done to the engine is irreversible.
If there is evidence of chocolate mayonnaise. Would you suggest that it's now in the oil pan and should replace the oil pan and components entirely, along with the PCV regular maintenance? I understand that any damage that has been done to the engine is irreversible.
IF you have baby poop anywhere --- it is everywhere --- it's also diabolical.

The pan, the inside of the block, the cams, the lifters, the followers, all the rod/main bearings, under the pistons (where oil is shot to cool the underside of the hot piston crowns) and you'll find it coating any/all surfaces inside the engine.

Irreversible damage is just that: irreversible. You cannot heal up damaged metal parts with an additive - nor should you want to.

I'd say that if you get the engine up to operating temperature and immediately change the oil - doing this cycle of hot runs and immediate oil/filter changes - a few times, then you should be able to substantially remove most of the condensate/moisture from the engine.

Then ---> servicing the CV-side of the PCV - again with a hot engine - with taking that hose off and dumping a capful or two of B-12 in the hose and letting it sizzle for a while, then restart the engine to help suck some of the contamination out of the runners.

Repeat the B-12 treatment as many times as you can until it gets tiring --- then be sure to set up a time or date to do it again and again .... may indeed clean out years of ignorant failure to service this non-moving, non-mechanical, totally hidden and not stated as an existent system - as best as you can.

If you can clean only 3 ports out of 6, there will be a great improvement to your engine's water condensation problem.
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Thank you. I appreciate your advice. After watching the video, I've noticed built up and gunk at the oil filler cap and there is oil seepage on the passenger side near the valve covers. My oil changes have been well maintained. Usually, a quart is dark the the rest comes out clean when draining. I wish I knew about this maintenance sooner. It's a 2006 4.2L with 250000 miles give or take. I'm the second owner since 2010. I'll start B-12 treatment immediately. Luckily it's parked for now, waiting on wheel hubs and CV axles to be delivered.
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