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'05 Chevy TB EXT
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Those calipers are a lot easier to do if you have a good compressor available.

It's a "learned" experience and I don't think I can explain it here ... but I always build calipers with an air hose. and lots of brake assembly lube ....

Liquid Bottle Fluid Plastic bottle Bottle cap



..... and do not 'round-over' the grooves inside the caliper where the square cut o-rings sit!

Gently remove all the crud in the caliper housing and gently clean the pistons --- if they are phenolic resin, it's best to replace them with stainless steel unless they are very very primo --- and the stainless steel ones are usually available at a "good" parts house.
 

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2004 Chevy Trailblazer LS RWD
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75 Posts
Discussion Starter · #82 ·
I thought we'd driven enough for the emission self checks to complete. Still had a incomplete for EVAP shown on the scanner. So on the way to the emission test station. I pull away from a stop. It starts miss firing like crazy, the engine check light starts flashing, I think "Oh darn". It cleared up in about a mile, than did it again, than cleared up again. Check engine light went off. It's about 8 more miles to the test station. No codes are set. Scanner shows a pending code for multi-cylinder missfire. We make it to the test station still running okay. They just plug into the diagnostic port for about 30 seconds and check the gas cap. It passed. Made a couple more stops and drove about 20 more miles. The miss-fire didn't happen again.
 

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'05 Chevy TB EXT
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Imma gonna guess you're not in California --- huh?

If there's an OBD Drive Cycle that's incomplete, they ass-ss-ssume that you cleared a code --- which, technically, you're not allowed to do nor is a parts house allowed because they are not licensed CalEPA Registered to inspect your system.

In a way I like that --- keeping the guys who try to cheat the system from actually screwing up the air more than it already is --- and in other ways it's kinda rough and tough where it shouldn't be ... and doesn't have to be.

I was a CalEPA Brake-Lamp-Smog inspector for over --- hell let me think .... I started in 1963 and retired in 2004 and I'm too lazy to do the math.
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_lt
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That would be 41 years Kemosabe
 
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'05 Chevy TB EXT
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I'm glad you're here to keep me straight --- I am barfing up everything I ate in the past six months ---- no fever --- just barfing and barfing ... nothing stays down....
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_lt
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Oh my. That's what you get for not harassing us enough and torturing all those trout!
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_lt
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No. Ravalli was wondering where you are located because if you were in California, there is no way your TrailBlazer would have passed an emissions test/inspection there.

I bet if you lived in Chicago/Cook County or one of the adjacent Illinois counties, you might not have passes either. Good thing you only have to deal with the Hoosiers! FYI, I lived in Hancock County for 4 years (far east side of Indianapolis) and did not need to worry about such things there. Now, I'm in Maryland and while they are not as rigid as California, they are getting that way. I guess emission nazis are the same everywhere anymore.
 

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2004 Chevy Trailblazer LS RWD
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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
Ok, before we left for the emissions test I had EVAP incomplete. By the time we got there I had a pending P0300 for multy cylinder misfire. No hard codes set, no check engine light. I did not check the EVAT status at arrival at the test station.
It passed. I'm done with that. I can renew the license online.

I just now went out and started the car and read the scan tool.
No hard codes set, still Pending P0300 multy cylinder missfire

Selected IM readyness on scan tool: All parameters either OK or N/A
MIL OFF, MIS, FUEL, CCM, CAT, EVAP, AIR, O2S, HTR, = OK, HCAT, EGR = N/A
So EVAP is Ok now and may have been ok at the test station

Apparently pending P0300 is not enough to fail the test

The engine started running rough, effing misfire is happening again.
Went for a 1/2 mile test drive. Intermittent rough running misfire continues.
check engine comes on, blinks sometimes
Parked back home read scanner, CEL still ON
IM readyness MIL is now on
Codes: Pending P0300 is gone replaced by P0306 misfire cylinder 6 code set
So at least it's telling me where to look.

I think this is because I left the hood up when it rained.
I found this, Rain water on coils

So, I'm gonna try to clean and dry out the coils before getting any replacements but If I get into this it's probably time to clean the throttle body cus there's been some occasional other idle problems that, according to other discussion here, is solved by cleaning the throttle body. Need a warm day or it's not fun. But not too warm.
 

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'05 Chevy TB EXT
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"According to the discussion here" .... can be a red herring and this little trap can keep you chasing zebra tails for days and throwing great gobs of money at the problem when you haven't really diagnosed it first.

>> Check under your OIL cap first and see if there's a gob of chocolate pudding in there. Report back.​
>> Do you have a cold air pack?​
>> Dry the coils with MAF Cleaner so there's no hard water calcium traces on the boots and plugs.​
DON'T just blow them out or use a hot air gun, hair drier ... or a rag​
>> Even though you squeaked by the smog test, you've still got those same problems.​
>> A blinking CEL/SES is never a good thing as you're killing your catalytic convertor and that will fail you next time for sure.​

DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BATTERY -- and THAT discussion, although it often gets posted here --- is wrong so don't do it.

Is there any pinging or knocking under acceleration?​
Has the gas mileage taken a big dump lately?​
Does the speedometer needle move around much - or at all?​
Does the Cruise Control work?​
I'm forgetting the rain and water intrusion and the missing P0300 --- and frankly, a P0300 is not really a diagnosis but it's an indication that something's wrong --- and may not necessarily be multiple cylinder misses.​
P0300 can be set by a bad Knock Sensor --- I've seen that a few times.​

Get to the Live Data and read the individual cylinder misfire counts.

You DO have a scanner --- right?

These vehicles --- and all the newer ones too (so get used to it) --- contain a gazillion sensors, modules and computers, big and small, and you need the ability to access them and read their metrics.

I had an 8th grade Algebra III teacher who constantly admonished us to "Do it Algebraically, fella". That's what you have to do -- there's a logic tree here and you have to follow it or get lost (read: $$$$$) .

There's more to diagnose and repair --- so keep to the facts --- OK?
 

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'05 Chevy TB EXT
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Well then --- make those observations and report back.

You've gotta be our eyes and ears here --- we ain't there --- ya know?

We're 92 posts into this circus and there isn't a lot to show for it ... know what I mean?
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_lt
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2,561 Posts
I have a suggestion for johnd393. The next time you have a problem or concern with your TrailBlazer, please start a new thread rather than adding to a thread that was started in September 2020. I know it's nice to have your history in one place, but for this forum it really is not practical - for you, yes; for the rest of us, no.

Thanks!
 

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2004 Chevy Trailblazer LS RWD
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Discussion Starter · #97 ·
Coils 5 & 6 were dripping with water and a good amount of water sprayed out of the coil/plug well when hit with compressed air. Coils 1 to 4 were dry. 2 appear to be newer replacements. There was no oil in the plug wells.
That's as far as I got.
 

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'05 Chevy TB EXT
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Coils 5 & 6 were dripping with water and a good amount of water sprayed out of the coil/plug well when hit with compressed air. Coils 1 to 4 were dry. 2 appear to be newer replacements. There was no oil in the plug wells.
That's as far as I got.
Check the firewall pinchweld seal. When it's damaged or missing, water drops onto the rear of the engine
 

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2004 Chevy Trailblazer LS RWD
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Discussion Starter · #99 ·
Thanks for staying with me.
Okay, I don't want to break a spark plug. I gotta at least look at one while I'm in there. But, if they're all this tight, I want to break them loose, put a little anti seize on 'em, are torque them properly. I got a short 9" or 10"ish, 3/8" breaker bar on them and I've put as much force as I dare. I tried the 3 front plugs and they don't budge. I sprayed some penatrant in there and walked away.
 

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'05 Chevy TB EXT
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The plug won't allow any penetrating oils to get past the seal seat... so that is likely a waste of time.

I've read and seen that antisieze on the sparkplug threads doesn't change the breakaway torque required to take a plug out when compared to non-lubricated plugs either.

This is why the alloy of the plug shells is critical in an aluminum head. Cadmium plated plugs (Champions, f'rinstance) actually electrovoltaically weld themselves to aluminum because of the dissimilarity of the metals create a constant electrical flow ... negative-to-positive .. so they are dangerous.

Cut thread plugs v rolled thread plugs have sharp edges and microscopic burrs that assist the metal fusion and even help in the generation of an alloy that creates a significant bond to each of the base metals too. It has something to do with valances and electrolysis... things I've forgotten but recognize the symptoms of, over the years.

We could never get away with the cad-plated Champions in a VW, but the Beru and NGK bright coated plugs were happy there. I've still got K&Ds kit to replace the threads in a VW ... somewhere in my toolbox.

Okay ... your problem .... I've watched the good success of removing our plugs with a small air or battery operated 1/4" air ratchet. The rattling breaks the plug loose in small blips and stages.....

......... just saying ................
 
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