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2004 Chevy Trailblazer LS RWD
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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
My wiper relays have arrived from China. I decided to start taking things apart. In order to get a puller on the wipers I had to move them away from the parked position so I just turn them on and when they were straight up, advanced the control to high. Since they don't move on high, they stayed there. So I tightened the puller as tight as I dare and the wipers won't come off. I've already sprayed penetrating oil on them. I start to give them a little shock with a small hammer. They still don't come off but the motor gives a couple jumps and than takes off. They start working on high. Took the puller off cus it was scratching the plastic cowl. Turned them off & on a couple times. They continued to work. I think the puller is a battery terminal puller.
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
That video makes it look so easy. Tried it. Didn't work.
I've got a lot of stuck fasteners off this thing with repeated applications of penetrating oil over several days. One wiper has the puller tight on it. I'll give it some time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
This is the answer. This is a Harbor Freight ball joint separator tool. It's what I had. There may be many similar. Take the spreader bolt out and the tool fits under the wiper. Find a fat chisel to drive in to the tool to tighten the jaws on the wiper, as in the picture. Don't hit the windshield. I used a tiny 4 oz ball peen hammer. Keep the nut on the flush withthe threads to protect them. On one, I had to back off the nut a little more to get more pressure cus my chisel was driven all the way in. I knocked the chisel back out, backed off the nut a little more, drove the chisel back in and it popped. This works.
Grille Automotive lighting Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
Well I got the wiper control board out. I can't see anything wrong. The circuit board does not easily come out of the plastic housing so I could unsolder and replace the relays. After banging on things to get the wipers off, it started working and has not failed again. I'm kinda suspecting a motor brush had lost contact from long periods of non use. I might take to motor apart to inspect the brushes. I might just put it back together. I'm gonna try some resistance checks on the motor and bang on it and see if the meter jumps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
I decided to put it back together. Banging on it made it start working. There is nothing I can see to fix that that doesn't come with the risk of doing damage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
The power steering line I spliced has sprung another leak. My splice didn't fail. I've not identified exactly where the leak is but It looks like it's gonna be easily accessible through the wheel well for another splice. Thing is, my lift is now occupied by a 49 year old non running Jaguar with no brakes. I don't want try to install new lines on the ground.
 

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If you spliced the high pressure line, expect more leaks until you replace the entire line. Ask me how I know...
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
Access through the wheel well, to where it looks like the leak is, is easier cus I still haven't put the plastic inner fender back on. i still have extra hose that I used for the last repair. I don't think the hose is rated for the pressure on the high side. I'm just gonna spray some brake clean on the area to dry it up and than start the car and try to see exactly where the leak is coming out. If I can get a tubing cutter in there it should be easy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
PS leak appears to be from the PS oil cooler. Had to turn it off before I identified exactly where cus it leaked down to where the pump started to make noise and it's hard to see down there. Used a mirror to look at the hoses and it doesn't look like they've been chewed on. Gotta look up how the grill comes off so I can get in there.
 

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If I recall correctly, there are a couple of fasteners in the middle and then at the ends, it just pushes in and pulls out (although don't quote me - it's been 3.5 years since I had the grill off.

Go to www.wholesalegmpartsonline.com and put your information in. Then go to cooling parts. There are several images of how the various grills go onto the vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
I got the grill off. The rust on the little push in clips that hold the grill were resistant to removal but some prying woth a screwdriver and plastic trim tool git it off. The part were a push pin holds the bumper cover under in front of each wheelwell broke off on one side. I got some stainless screws & nuts to remount the bracket. The slot that's supposed to slide off is too tight fitting to come off properly. The bolts are loose on the bumper.
I still have to put more fluid in and start it with things uncovered so I can confirm exactly where the leak is but it's almost certainly the cooler. There's a guy parting out a car on Facebook that has a PS cooler for $20. Facebook sellers are not always easy to deal with, and his used part may not be nice enough to use if it's rusty too. There's one on Amazon for $78 and one for bid at $56 on that auction site. I got enough credit card reward points for either.
 

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Well, since I do not like to purchase auto parts from unknown online sellers, and used parts like this cooler could be rusted as badly as yours is, I would go with a new Dorman 918-300 cooler.

I see that it is not in stock at Amazon.com for $94.57, but it appears to be in stock at rockauto.com for $124.99. This is what I replaced mine with and it is a decent cooler. If it ever leaks, well, it will be replaced under warranty since it comes with a lifetime warranty.

Good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
The Facebook seller turned out to be 3 miles from my house. They had used a saw to cut stuff out of the way to remove the engine. It was pretty much a carcass of the car. Turned out the PS cooler was still on the car. It was obviously not the original. Numbers on it match a Dorman part at Advance Auto. Got it home and on close inspection there is some damage to the tubing where it makes a 90 degree bend toward the cooler fins. I think I can repair that with a 90 degree tube fitting. So $20 for that. He only wants $10 for the wiper motor so I think I'm gonna go back for it.
 

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Now the wiper motor is another matter! Definitely get that!
 

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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
Used a 90 degree 3/8" brass compression fitting to repair the damaged aluminum tubing on the used ps cooler.
It's installed and not leaking. The grill & bumper is still off. I bought some cheap FVP PS fluid. Says it's for all makes. What was in there and the Autozone PS fluid was clear. The used PS cooler had some residual red fluid in it. I thought it was ATF but than this FVP PS fluid is red so whatever.
 

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Power steering fluid does not have a "standard color" to it.
 
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