I think I just bought a 2004 trailblazer

Lift Safety. I have a 4 post lift. With a front wheel removed, I'm not sure I've got enough support to feel safe. I have a 2 ton jack stand and 2 bottle jacks on the jack tray. The jack tray is supposed to be rated 3500 lbs. The jack tray bridges the space between the drive on ramps. My 6 ton jack stands won't fit on the jack tray. Jack stands are rated for a pair so one 2 ton jack stand has 1 ton capacity. It's possible to exceed that lifting the front of the Trailblazer. I ordered a pair of 3 ton jackstands, that should fit the jack tray. I also have a small floor jack near the ball joint but that has to come out to replace suspension parts. All that weight sitting on one small jack stand does not inspire confidence.
I purchased a Harbor Freight 61600, 2 Ton Capacity Underhoist Safety Stand. It is tall and sits on the floor. I called HF support, and confirmed that this stand is also rated per pair. One way or another, there's gonna be multiple supports before the weight bearing suspension parts come apart.

I got one hub bearing off, One caliper slide pin was frozen solid. I did get it out, so it can be cleaned up or replaced, have slightly moved the nuts & bolts for most things that will have to come off, having trouble breaking the jamb nut for the tie rod. I bought a couple new wrenches for a better try, 22mm & 26mm.
Just sharing the fun with you guys.

I'll look for some of that Kroll, but I don't know if I can buy it locally.
I got the jamb nut loose but the tie rod itself is stuck.
I used some heat from a Mapp gas torch and I made a coupling from a big nut & bolt to couple the box end of 2 combination wrenches together for leverage. I used a grinder on each face of a 15/16 bolt head until it would fit the 22mm wrench, tightened the nut & bolt together, then put a 15/16 wrench on the nut. I heated it a couple times before the nut let go.
I'm thinking of moving on to the struts & control arms. The tie rad that's, for sure, bad is on the other side.
The way I have this thing on the rack with the safety stand from the floor on one side, it's not easy to get at the steering wheel to extend the rack out to either side to access the inner tie rods. The Chiltons online, that I have access to through the public library, wants you to hold the rack with a pipe wrench on the valve side when removing either side inner tie rod. They actually show it being done with the rack removed from the car.

I got the new shock assembled with the old spring. The Harbor Freight 2PC MacPherson Strut Spring Compressor worked. I just used hand wrenches, no impact wrench. I had to hold the strut stem with a vicegrip to get the top nut off but I found a die in the correct thread pitch to chase the threads before & after. The old shock might not be shot but it's really rusty. Old shocks front and back were Bilstiens. Could those be original?
Had a bitch of a time getting the yoke off the shock. Ended up using a puller, chisel & BFH.

Some guy on youtube removed the plastic inner fender for better access. That seemed to be a good idea. That allowed me to get a better look a those power steering lines where the pass over the frame section under the battery and I was able to get those 10mm bolts out that clamp the lines to the frame. I'll clean the rust off the lines there and coat them with Fluid Film and find some way to refasten them. There are cable ties with a bolt hole attached. I don't know if I can find any. We had them at work but that was 19 years ago. The clamp pieces are destroyed. I haven't broke a bolt yet.

With that inner fender out I got a look at hidden body areas and was happy with the lack of rust, but there sure is scaly rust on the frame. I got a needle scaller from HF to chip some of that scale off. I did some chipping with a small ball peen hammer but that's too tedious. Been spending time moving crap around in the garage to try to make a better work space.
I hope I'm faster when I get to the other side.