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I think I just bought a 2004 trailblazer

9675 Views 162 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  tomcat709
So far, it's a verbal agreement. It will be my only vehicle with any towing capacity. I'd like to tow a small camper. Don't have the camper. It's RWD, I6, SWB, 177k miles. It has a 7 wire trailer connector but no brake controller. Just going over the RPO codes and it's got the 3.42 axle, no posi-traction, and a couple codes for California emissions. Apparently it was a California car in it's early life. The price is right. The rust is less than most here in Indiana. It's gonna need some work on a power steering leak and some front suspension parts.
Runs good, sounds good except for PS whine, shifts good. Trans dip stick is missing. Seller seems like a good guy.
We have to get an emissions test in this Indiana county. Is the California emissions stuff something to worry about? Does it effect the performance or towing ability?
Supposed to pick it up Friday.
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For the jam nut on the tie rod end, try a pipe wrench. Sometimes dese tings just need a little... persuasion, if ya knows what I means.
The dreaded aluminum rim corrosion. Once it sets in, it's a never ending battle.
When I replaced the front suspension on the wife's '06 Trailblazer in early June, I set the lower control arm brackets in their frame pockets as far to the rear (towards the tailgate) as I could and still get the bolts in easily. As regarding the side-to side placement, which will set the camber, I put them in so that at a point about 3" (I'm going from my aging memory on this distance, it may have been a bit more) from the front of the pocket the bracket was flush with the edge of the frame pocket. I used a small metal straight edge to get it flush. At a point about 3" from the rear of the pocket I set the bracket into the pocket about 1/16" deeper than the edge of the pocket, so that in effect the rear of the bracket sits about 1/16" farther inboard than the front edge does. I hope that makes sense. I just set the toe-in by eye because I just needed it to get close enough to be able to drive it to the tire shop a few miles away for a professional alignment. How close did I get it? I nailed the camber on both sides, and nailed the caster on the drivers side. They didn't even touch that bracket. On the passengers side the caster was off by just a hair. The toe was off, but I figured it would be.
I hope this helps you get it close enough to get it to the shop for an alignment!
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Yea, they are a tight fit! I had to use a 3lb. sledge hammer and a pry bar to move them! To measure them, use a small metal straight edge and just put it vertically on the edge of the pocket, noting where the edge of the bracket is in relation to the straight edge. They do need to be pretty much toward the back of the vehicle as far as you can get them. Use your finger and reach up in there to make sure the bolt has a good path into the hole, though. (That doesn't sound right, somehow...)
G80 is the rear end code for a locking differential.
That MPG sounds about right, pretty typical of what many of us get out of these rolling barns!
When I replaced the plugs in both of our 4.2 I6 TB's, the first thing I did was to give the plug just a tiny tweak tightening it. Then loosen the plug until resistance was felt. Tighten it up a turn or so, then loosen until resistance is felt. Repeat the process until the plug is out. You do not want to gall the threads, and this process will help prevent that. Remove the plugs only on a cold engine. I always use a small amount of nickel anti-seize on the threads of the new plugs. Torque to spec. 13 ft. lbs. IIRC, don't have the book handy.
Keeping score and watching the door...................
Don't let it hit you on the way out.
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