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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an EVAP leak I can't locate. Started as a small leak code, now it's a large leak. I replaced the purge valve, vent valve, intake gaskets, pcv hoses, air filter, catalytic converter and O2 sensors. I still have the EVAP code, lose power going uphill 60mph to 40 by the time I get up there. Halfway up she will get a surge of power and the RPMs will soar to 3k, still won't let me speed up, just revs. Now she's making a deep rhythmic wub wub sound on acceleration. I've been to 7 mechanics in different towns, no idea. Nobody has a smoke machine either. I'm down to.. possibly bought a bad brand new cat ($180 bolt on eBay), fuel feed line real rusty, no leak yet attached purge line could have a crack, fuel filter/pump going bad or clogged because my filler neck is also rusted pretty heavily, secondary air injection, or cracked manifold. Please for the love of Scotty, help me out. This B is financed for $10k!!! AND I CANT GET OUT. First car, shh. Hubby's 2.2l Malibu lodged a valve on his way home from the Army. I have done everything myself minus trans rebuild and lines, new rack and lines. Grew up with 5 uncle's so I know a bit.
 

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2005 buick rainier
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7 mechanics! Are you paying them to diagnose the vehicle? Most mechanics should have a diagnostic strategy based on the customer's complaint. So you tell the shop owner / service writer " I am losing power going uphill" There response should be we charge X amount $ for a diagnostic, sign this estimate for us to begin the work. As mentioned the mechanic should begin his complaint based diagnostic routine. Might go something like this - Test drive to verify the complaint. Hook up the scanner & check for codes and verify some basic PID data to see if they are in range. If there are no performance related codes and the data looks ok on to under load testing . A quick look under the hood maybe make sure the air filter isn't an issue. Based on a loss of power mechanic might check the fuel pressure under load and graph MAF, O2, fuel trims etc. @ some point they might also decide to check the exhaust system back pressure. All this can be done w/o buying a single part. Once they have found a problem they should call back w/ an estimate for repairs. they should be able to detail why they are replacing part X.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
7 mechanics! Are you paying them to diagnose the vehicle? Most mechanics should have a diagnostic strategy based on the customer's complaint. So you tell the shop owner / service writer " I am losing power going uphill" There response should be we charge X amount $ for a diagnostic, sign this estimate for us to begin the work. As mentioned the mechanic should begin his complaint based diagnostic routine. Might go something like this - Test drive to verify the complaint. Hook up the scanner & check for codes and verify some basic PID data to see if they are in range. If there are no performance related codes and the data looks ok on to under load testing . A quick look under the hood maybe make sure the air filter isn't an issue. Based on a loss of power mechanic might check the fuel pressure under load and graph MAF, O2, fuel trims etc. @ some point they might also decide to check the exhaust system back pressure. All this can be done w/o buying a single part. Once they have found a problem they should call back w/ an estimate for repairs. they should be able to detail why they are replacing part X.
Nobody has ever asked for money to test drive and live scan it. I took it to a new shop and he verified a code in the trans thats been there awhile loss of serial communications to tccm, i tried 4Hi today, worked fine. Sounded better than driving in 2. Last i knew grinds in auto doing in reverse from a parking space. I keep getting the P0420, im going to take the front O2 out for a drive and see if theres any improvement, and hopefully i can get a new converter per warantee. In parked idle the fan clutch is pretty loud, had p/s lines replaced and its slightly crooked.pinion seal on front diff is leaking, pump res fluid is brown. I get a hard rotational vibration when accelerating up any hill, something somewhere is clicking in the engine bay. Sounds almost coming from throttle body area/ intake. Shes had seafoam or b-12 once in a while, cant tell if im leaking fuel from ontop of the tank or leaky u joint. Hesitates to speed up and pass someone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well she's got a large evap leak now, smells of gas still can't find the leak. My brake booster hose popped off when trying to start, sometimes won't start keeps cranking. Another mechanic smoke tested it after I replaced the purge and vent valve months ago. The vent valve clip broke so I replaced it the day before. The guy said the clips weren't pushed in all the way, charged me and on I went. No difference, did not solve a single issue, they were in lol not hard to do. I'm thinking the port ontop of the fuel pump is rusted out, filters probably clogged with rust from the filler neck, I can just about push my finger through it. One intake manifold bolt is snapped in the block, second lower, and thus creating a vacuum leak, running rich, clogged my new cats, building up more carbon and choking her out. And the transmission was rebuilt last april, 2 months later she started slipping, she's manual now let off to shift, the shop said they transfered all their customer info to a different company, I moved 2 hrs away, I wouldn't make it down there anyhow. Not playing phone tag. I'm in an apartment right now so I can't do much fixing on my own but damn I'm tired of some guys telling me the wrong things when I know better. I was just diagnosed with scoliosis and anemia at 23.. 3yrvold toddler. This thing is killing us $10k financed to veteran hubby.
 
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