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2005 chevy trailblazer_lt_ext
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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I have a 2005 TrailBlazer LT Extended wheel base edition vehicle and I need help replacing the power steering lines. I have removed the power steering pump (because it was bad) and I haven't put it back in yet. I have the new lines. Three of them. One that's high pressure and goes from the power steering pump to the rack. The other two are low pressure lines. The return line that goes from the power steering pump to the cooler and then one that goes from the cooler to the rack.

I have gotten the lines free, but I cannot seem to pull them out, there's wires in the way. :mad: Like the wire harness that goes to the fuse box. And then some other wire harnesses. Is there a trick to this or do I have to possibly bend the lines (new and old)? Or do I have to unhook all the wire harnesses? Or can I just cut the old lines to get them free and then run the new lines over all the wire harnesses? My fear is if the new ones eventually leak in the future, perhaps the fluid could cause a fire if there's a bare wire some where. Any suggestions? Thanks!

Sincerely,
Spork Schivago
 

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2008 gmc envoy_slt
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345 Posts
I'm trying to remember how I did mine. i believe I had to bend the flexible parts of the hoses to get them in. Don't under any circumstances try and bend the steel parts as you will ruin the hose. Good luck.
 

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2005 chevy trailblazer_lt_ext
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Discussion Starter #3
I'm trying to remember how I did mine. i believe I had to bend the flexible parts of the hoses to get them in. Don't under any circumstances try and bend the steel parts as you will ruin the hose. Good luck.
Thank you for the quick reply. However, I don't see how I could possibly get them out, let alone in, without bending the metal part and without unhooking the wires / connectors that are in the various wire harnesses. I can show a pic of what I'm talking about if it would help.
 

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2005 chevy trailblazer_lt_ext
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Discussion Starter #5
There are many threads on this power steering line replacement issue.

See if this video helps, it also speaks of wiring concerns.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MPqWsBftrIY
Thank you for the link! I've already found the video though. I should of watched the whole thing though! After he unhooked the lines from the rack, he switches to the inside of the car, showing the steering wheel, talking about how he heard a story of someone who switched the lines and reached threw the steering wheel to turn on the car and broke his wrist. I just assumed the rest of the video involved testing it and stuff. I didn't realize he was going to go back and show how to run them! Boy was I stupid for not spending an extra four minutes watching that.

He says it's okay to run the lines over the wires. Is this the general consensus? If so, I can just cut the old lines and get them out and work on getting the new one in. It's been maybe 4 days that I've been working on this problem. Stupid power steering lines.
 

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2005 chevy trailblazer_lt_ext
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Discussion Starter #6
Got the old lines out and one of the three new lines on! I got the return line from the cooler to the pump one. It's bent a little bit different than the old one and I can't reuse certain brackets because there's no way to get them off the old lines and even if I could, I wouldn't be able to get them on the new lines. Can I just use zip-ties to secure them to the frame? Thanks! :)
 

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2006 chevy trailblazer_ls
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Got the old lines out and one of the three new lines on! I got the return line from the cooler to the pump one. It's bent a little bit different than the old one and I can't reuse certain brackets because there's no way to get them off the old lines and even if I could, I wouldn't be able to get them on the new lines. Can I just use zip-ties to secure them to the frame? Thanks! :)
You don't want to "kink" those new steel lines. If I were going to zip tie steel lines to the frame, I would have a rubber vacuum hose or such around the steel line, so the steel line does not chafe against the frame.
 

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2005 chevy trailblazer_lt_ext
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Discussion Starter #8
You don't want to "kink" those new steel lines. If I were going to zip tie steel lines to the frame, I would have a rubber vacuum hose or such around the steel line, so the steel line does not chafe against the frame.
Thank you. I could maybe cut a rubber hose so I can "unfold" it and put it over the new lines. Because of the crimped ends they use to crimp the high pressure rubber hoses to the steel lines, I'd need a really large I.D. rubber vacuum hose or something to get them around the crimped ends.

Quick question here, I got the "cup" seal off the rack side. Is there a seal on the other side of the rack? For the line that goes from the rack to the cooler? Also, is there any tricks to getting the new cup seal in? I had to take a metal coat hanger and straighten it out and then use a pair a needle nose to make a hook type end (kinda like a small J). Then I went down through the engine, from up by the hood, to get to the rack. I have big hands and can't seem to reach around to reach the rack like the guy in the video does. Any help is greatly appreciated. Also, if I get a little dirt in there, how dangerous is that? I'm going to be flushing the lines, like the instructions with the new pump says to do. I also have a vacuum pump to get the air out of the line...there's just soooo much grease down there. Should of poured some degreaser and washed it off before I removed the old lines.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I got the lines ran and the new pump installed! Boy was that a job I don't want to ever have to do again! I ended up routing them the correct way, the way they were originally ran. I had to remove the battery and I had to unbolt the fuse block. Once I had that unbolted, I was able to lift it enough so the wire harnesses weren't in the way while my wife snuck them through for me.

Also, just in case anyone's wondering, there where cup seals in both ports on the rack. Once I got the second one off (I went from on top of the engine down), the new ones went in nice and easy like. I was able to reach down from the top of the engine and push the new lines in and bolted it down from the bottom, using a long extension.

Tomorrow (if it doesn't rain), I'm going to try getting the radiator fan and shield back in and testing her out. In the process of installing the new lines, I had to unbolt one of the A/C lines and nothing came out. There must be a leak some wheres. The previous owner said they charged it at the beginning of the summer and it was dead at the end. Hopefully that won't be too hard to track down.

Any idea how I mark this thread as solved? Thanks.
 

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Don't know how to mark a thread "solved", but happy to hear you worked your way through the process.

The tech who did my hoses showed 3.5 hours labor in his online FLAT RATE GUIDE.

Consider yourself fortunate that the a/c had no refrigerant in it, when you chose to remove that hose. That could have been a VERY bad experience for you and your eyes !
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Don't know how to mark a thread "solved", but happy to hear you worked your way through the process.

The tech who did my hoses showed 3.5 hours labor in his online FLAT RATE GUIDE.

Consider yourself fortunate that the a/c had no refrigerant in it, when you chose to remove that hose. That could have been a VERY bad experience for you and your eyes !
Thanks! I've removed them before when they where charged, so I took what I thought where appropriate precautions. I wore safety glasses, had my face away from the line (the radiator was blocking the way). I also had on a coat and gloves just in case some got on me. I gotta find a way to get that dang radiator fan and shroud back on tomorrow. That's gonna be a pain. It came out real tight like. I think I was supposed to remove the radiator with the fan and shroud but I managed to sneak it through. Thanks for all the help and encouragement guys!

Now that I figured out how to do it, I'd like to think that 3.5 hours sounds about right. The way I work though, I'd bet I could do it in 6. I'm not a professional or anything, I just tinker here and there. We don't have a lot of money and we can never afford to send our vehicle to someone when it breaks. We gotta do all the repairs ourselves. It's great in a way because we save cash and learn new stuff along the way. Sucks though because sometimes a 3.5 hour job takes 4 or 5 days! :)
 
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