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2002 chevy trailblazer_ls
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7,255 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
This is not an official instruction guide, just how I went about doing it.

Tools needed:
Socket wrench set
18mm deep socket
3/4'' deep socket
9/16'' deep socket
19mm open ended wrench
T40 torx bit(for better grip)
Channel lock pliers
rotary tool
penetrating lubricant(PB Blaster)
Goggles(or cool sunglasses) and gloves
Jack stands
At least 1/2 ton floor jack

*I have included a few pictures to illustrate the before and after. The work involved is pretty straight forward*

*spray all bolts with penetrating lubricant for at least a few days prior to the install*

1. Properly raise vehicle with floor jack and support with a jack stand before removing wheel. Once set on jack, remove wheel and place to the side. I put the parking brake on for good measure. I did this one wheel at a time to ensure as much stability as possible.
2. Using the deep 18mm socket, break the OEM sway bar end link nuts loose, both upper and lower. You may need to temporarily remove the bump stops to gain access to the upper mount in the rear.
3. Attach the T40 bit to the socket wrench and insert in the opening at the end of the bolt. Hold this stationary and use the open ended wrench to turn the nut.

-the lower nuts removed with no problem, but the uppers had to be "coaxed". I used my rotary tool to cut relief grooves in the nuts, allowing them to move more freely. On one of them, I was required to use channel lock pliers to hold the bolt in place from the back end while turning the nut with the 18mm deep socket. I was in such a rush to get it finished that I forgot to take pictures :oops:

Now the old end link can be safely removed. Here is a side by side comparison.


Installing the new end link is a simplified reverse of the removal.

4. Put the new end link in place and finger tighten the nuts to keep it stable.

5. Using the crescent wrench, hold the bottom in place. The rear links will have the nut facing down, the fronts will have the bolt head facing down. The deep 9/16'' socket should be used on the top to take the slack out. Use your better judgment to make them snug without crushing the bushings. Then, use the 3/4'' deep socket to tighten the end link nuts to the specified 65lb/ft of torque.

The finished product on the passenger rear.


6. Reinstall the wheel and lower the vehicle back to the ground.

Repeat this on all four links and you will be good to go! No more squeaks or clanks caused by the end links
 

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2003 chevy trailblazer_ls
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1,031 Posts
Very interesting. It appears that they have eliminated the ball socket on their unit so the only thing to wear over time are the bushings. Very nice!
 

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2002 chevy trailblazer_ls
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4,125 Posts
Very interesting. It appears that they have eliminated the ball socket on their unit so the only thing to wear over time are the bushings. Very nice!
now that I think about it, you never have to remove the eyelets either. Just the big bolt and it'll come apart.
 

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Banned
2002 chevy trailblazer_ls
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7,255 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Will these work with GF 2" Drop Springs and Belltech Nitro Drop 2 Shocks?
I've wondered that, as the site claims they can be used from stock to 2" of lift. They are the same size as the OEM links, which gave me no problems when I had the GF lowering kit. Perhaps the front links, which are smaller, can be used front and rear....:undecided
 

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2003 trailblazer_lt
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9,856 Posts
On one of them, I was required to use channel lock pliers to hold the bolt in place from the back end while turning the nut with the 18mm deep socket.
I had to do this on every bolt on my OEM fronts, even after pb saturation. It was SO not cash.

Nice how-to. Are stunner shades and locs approved cool sunglasses?
 

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2004 gmc envoy_slt_xl
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249 Posts
thank you. looks like a wickid easy install. im gettin squeaks hitting any sort of bumps and i think its the bushings but id replace the hole link instead cuz its a lil rusty.

:thx:thx
No problem, I'm digging these as good replacements for my Moog ones that I replaced about a year ago, and I think they're starting to clunk and squeak again after I greased them about 4 times already. On the website it says 90 bucks but well worth it if you dont have to service them again for a long time.
 

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2002 chevy trailblazer_ls
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7,255 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Exactly the idea. I'm not 100% sure, but I think you can buy replacement bushings, which will make a huge difference in the long run.
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_ls
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538 Posts
No problem, I'm digging these as good replacements for my Moog ones that I replaced about a year ago, and I think they're starting to clunk and squeak again after I greased them about 4 times already. On the website it says 90 bucks but well worth it if you dont have to service them again for a long time.
what did you use to grease them with? WD-40, PB blaster, white lithium grease ?
 

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2004 gmc envoy_slt_xl
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249 Posts
what did you use to grease them with? WD-40, PB blaster, white lithium grease ?
The moog replacement ones have zerk fittings, I just used good old black grease. But there's something I don't like about the moog ones, they have rubber cones that go around the inside of the elbow links and do not completely seal the joint like the oem ones. So the grease always leaks out of there over time, and I guess there is also the chance of water contamination, or dirt.
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_lt
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61 Posts
I put a pair of these on the front a couple weeks ago, the front feels tighter and no noise at all and i've been driving it a little rough.
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_lt
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61 Posts
The autozone rear swaybar links went bad, the rubber cracked and came all the way off. Time to put suspension maxx links on the rear.:yes:
 

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2006 gmc envoy_denali
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43 Posts
you guys still running these maxxlinks? I guess they are the best?

Just wondering, as I just did mine with OEM replacement GM parts. Got them from the dealer FREE or I would have bought them... but still have a little clunking happening. guess it may be the rear, or something else.....

Dealer with the hand shake here screwed me over......
 

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2003 gmc envoy_sle_xl
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145 Posts
installed today them today

I installed the Smaxx front (666f's). i had issues with the way they fit, they did not just slide in. I had to use a bar to lift the sway bar up in order for the links to fit. was i supposed to do that. i installed as the instructions showed. will i have problems if i did this? if i effed up what can i do to fix?:worried:
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