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2004 chevy trailblazer_ls
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stepper motors

I found a kit of 6 stepper motors and 10 bulbs for around $25 on Ebay. It took me a total of about 2 hours to change 3 motors and 4 bulbs. It really is not difficult, if you follow some videos on Youtube, and have a soldering iron, and solder removing thread. you can get that stuff at any Radio Shack for about $20 or so. I got a quote of $475 to "repair" the cluster. It really is fairly easy to do youself, and you'll save plenty of cash!!
Dbdels
 

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2005 chevy
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step motor replacement

Thanks for this good info. Worked fine for me on my 2005 Suburban. I'd only like to suggest that one should use a small 25 watt soldering iron and .022 diameter solder on the PC board. Very delicate work!
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_lt
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Great Thread!

2004 Trailblazer LT - Wife said the oil pressure gauge was all the way to the right in the black when I was out of town. Told her to use one of the other cars until I got home. Oil was clean and no knocking in the motor. After turning the motor on, the needle would sometimes move to about 70 psi. When it was off, it went to the right in the black.

After reading this thread, I knew it had to be the stepper motor. Ordered one on eBay and installed it this weekend. I followed the how-to from Chavez. It was very easy to get the instrument cluster out and then proceeded to replace the stepper motor. Had my wife hold the magnifying glass while I removed the old motor and soldered the new one. All gauges were calibrated after being reinstalled. Everything worked out great. Back to normal with the oil pressure gauge.

Thanks to everyone that contributed to this thread! :thx
 

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2003 chevy trailblazer_ls
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2004 Trailblazer LT - Wife said the oil pressure gauge was all the way to the right in the black when I was out of town. Told her to use one of the other cars until I got home. Oil was clean and no knocking in the motor. After turning the motor on, the needle would sometimes move to about 70 psi. When it was off, it went to the right in the black.

After reading this thread, I knew it had to be the stepper motor. Ordered one on eBay and installed it this weekend. I followed the how-to from Chavez. It was very easy to get the instrument cluster out and then proceeded to replace the stepper motor. Had my wife hold the magnifying glass while I removed the old motor and soldered the new one. All gauges were calibrated after being reinstalled. Everything worked out great. Back to normal with the oil pressure gauge.

Thanks to everyone that contributed to this thread! :thx
I did the speedo a year ago and now I need to do the tach. I'm just going to do them all when I do the tach. :bonk:
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_lt
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did the job today

I did the fuel level and the engine coolant temp stepper motors today and everything so far has been good. I plan to keep the dash cover off for a few days until I can be sure though. I also figured that I would even keep the tape with the markings on it for a few more days also as a reference point in case I have to reset any of the gauges.

Used this video to show how to take off the instrument cluster (IC) bezel.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w4gJkcYSC2c

Instead of the fancy pry tool, I used one of these which worked really well. 'ClosetMaid16 in. Wire Shelving Support Bracket'
http://www.homedepot.com/p/ClosetMa...-Support-Bracket-26607/100189209?N=5yc1vZc89l

The most difficult part was unsoldering the old motors. I took my time doing this and spent about a good 30-45min just taking off the 2 steppers for the fuel and ECT. Soldering them back in only tool 5 min total (I also used some flux on the posts before reinstalling them. Don't rush. It is not worth messing up the entire IC.

I really appreciate all the posts.

Next job will be the thermostat and figuring out if the new water pump I put in is bad :(
 

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2003 chevy trailblazer_ls
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Just did this

My trailblazer had problems with various gauges. The fuel gauge would try to move but always stayed below E. The low fuel light warning worked though. The tach and the ammeter were completely non responsive. The other gauges worked. So i order a set of 6 stepper motors and soldered them in last night. The instructions in this write up are perfect. Remember to tilt your steering wheel all the way down to get the big bezel off that covers the cluster and the climate control area. It is easy and just snaps out once you remove all the screws. Also unplug all the ciggarette lighter and power outlet. They stay with the bezel. I removed my headlight switch from bezel rather than unplugging the switch. That way i could drive to my friends with bezel off and ready to pull cluster and test it out.

Check your cluster lights before you do it to see which are bad and replace any if you can. I didn't do that and we plugged it in and it was dark and we can see a bad bulb. But no big deal. It is easy to just unplug cluster and snap the board back out and replace the bulbs.

The final result : all the gauges work great now. It is really cool. The soldering is not bad. There is lots of room on the board around the steppers so a big fat 25Watt soldering iron did the job fine. I used rosin core solder . Let the soldering iron get really hot then touch it to one side of the connection and put solder on the other side. So you are heating the connection and once it's hot, the solder will run to the iron and fill up the hole in the board and make a good joint.

Getting the old ones out and the holes in the board clean to put the new one in was the trickeiest part for us. I bought a little sucker bulb at radioshack but it didn't work great. Once you have the old one out, to clean out the holes the best is to have someone with an air nozzle on one side , and the other person on the other with soldering iron. WEAR SAFETY GLASSES :bonk::bonk: . Then heat it and move quick and let them spray it. It blows the old solder out of the holes perfect. I was hit in the face with solder a couple times. That's why safety glasses are one of my favorite tools. :) And if you don't have a pair with the LED lights yet, run down to Lowes or wherever and pick up a couple pairs, 16.00 a piece , or something. They will change your life. I just got turned on to those from my friend.

Cheers and don't worry. This is an easy job for anyone careful that can work a screw driver.
 

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2005 isuzu ascender
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Buy a copper braid to 'suck up' the solder. Put of between the hole and the solder iron tip. It will pull the solder out. Using compressed air is unsafe, you only have one pair of eyes.
 

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2003 chevy trailblazer_ls
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Buy a copper braid to 'suck up' the solder. Put of between the hole and the solder iron tip. It will pull the solder out. Using compressed air is unsafe, you only have one pair of eyes.
Really? Just one pair of eyes? :thx I was wondering why i wear safety glasses all the time. :rolleyes: Nice tip on the copper braid. I'll try that next time.
 

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2005 chevy trailblazer_lt
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Kudos to this thread! Another successful fix on the TB. I am not going to lie, I was a little skeptical about working with a circuit board, but I dove right in and won the challenge. Following all the advice here in the thread, made the process easy most definitely worth it! Finally a working speedometer, and only after a year!!

*I mostly followed the steps provided by "Chavez."
*Lowes Solder gun - $34 I needed a new one.
*Stepper motor ordered on Amazon for like 5.50 w/ shipping. I forget the exact amount but wasn't more than that.
*Total project time was about a day, but I was working around the NE weather and also had another project going on. I'd say the soldering only took 20min.
*The only issue I had was removing the guage needles. Little tricky considering how delicate they are and I'm sure are easy to break. I used the fork method and with a little force, they popped off. Took me a few trys to get them. I was being gentle though.


Thank you all!!!
 

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2004 gmc envoy_slt
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cluster bleep panel

not sure how to post a problem but i have a 2004 envoy and sounds like i have a stepper motor problem speedo goes crazy sometimes or just sticks at 40k also there is a light or two thats out what are the proper motors to order or lights there are alot to online what what are the best and right one:chillpill:s thanks
 

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2004 buick rainier
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2005 gmc envoy_slt
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Thanks!

Thanks for the guide! I was able to replace the stepper motor in my speedometer without any difficulties. The complete project took me about an hour all said and done. Thanks again for the help!:thx
 

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Ok, went to replace my speedometer stepper motor, decided to do them all. Now my speedometer, battery, and temp only work. It seems like the stepper motors that don't work seem dead. So I took it apart again, took off the ones that didn't work and put the OEM ones back on, still no dice. Did I damage the circuit board? Can I clean it to make it work again?

If I have to, I can order a reman one, however there is a core charge. Would I be ok to return the one I have then?

This would be the one I have to get.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2347126&cc=1431160
 

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2003 gmc envoy_slt_xl
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You might have damage a soldering pad. To much heat could do that, it happened to me. I just used a piece of insulated wire, soldered and jumped to the needed connection.
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_ls_ext
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Check your solder connections. You have to be careful when you initially remove the the old original stepper motor. The circuit board has a little metal connector that the stepper motor pin threads into. When you heat the solder to remove the old stepper motor it is imperative that that little metal connector stay connected to the circuit board. If u heat it too much, it loosens from the board. To get around it I've been told to follow the wire in the circuit and solder in a bypass wire. I've never gotten this method to work though. Good luck.
 

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2005 chevy trailblazer_lt
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Check your solder connections. You have to be careful when you initially remove the the old original stepper motor. The circuit board has a little metal connector that the stepper motor pin threads into. When you heat the solder to remove the old stepper motor it is imperative that that little metal connector stay connected to the circuit board. If u heat it too much, it loosens from the board. To get around it I've been to follow the wire in the circuit and solder in a bypass wire. I've never gotten this method to work though. Good luck.
Ok...so pretty much I am screwed. Well I am gonna call a few places and see if I can get a reman one soon. I am gonna pay through the nose.....
 

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THis is a great thread, I have been without an accurate tach and speedometer for over a year now...

Is there a preferred vendor for the stepper motor ? Or am I going to have to replace them again in a few years?

Are there other more durable stepper motors than the OEM design ?
 
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