ok so my problem ended up being 1 dead cell in the battery. Damn autozone told me it was fine, but it wasn't i guess thats why you can't trust some guy at some auto parts store to diagnose a problem in my car. Chalk that one up to experience.

 

...i guess thats why you can't trust some guy at some auto parts store to diagnose a problem in my car....

Good lesson in there. When could you EVER trust parts store staff to diagnose things for free? :hissy: That's why there's an industry of mechanics making livings at properly (for the most part) diagnosing vehicles. Sorry - you get what you pay for at parts stores. I'm not one myself, but your local mechanics deserve to be supported if you want accurate, honest, and competent troubleshooting. Pay them!

What some folks are doing is like asking the checkout clerk at the supermarket how to make Beef Wellington. :weird:

 

Thanks!

Perfect instructions. Fixed my issue with ABS + Brake light and blower issue.

I did break the plastic steering column, but it's 15 degrees out. I'm sure that had something to do with it.

 

Is this a common problem in our trucks?

We just had the ignition switch replaced in our Trailblazer (under warranty-5 days before the factory warranty ran out ).

 

Yes. A horribly common problem.

 

Hello all... I'm having a starting problem in my '04 XUV (5.3L). I've read about as much as I could while researching this problem and thought I narrowed it down to a faulty ignition switch (which I've replaced). When I turn the key, sometimes nothing happens. There's no regular frequency, but it happens about every third or fourth time we try and start 'er up. When it does start, she fires up like brand new. I appear to have full power as all the idiot lights turn on, but the starter doesn't engage. There's no click, no buzz, no nothing. I can hear the fuel pump prime and the fuel rail has good pressure. The battery is about 2 years old, has been tested by both me and AutoZone, and found to be good. For what it's worth, the alternator seems to be good as well. As I mentioned, I swapped in a new ignition switch last Thursday since everything seemed to point to that. It worked ok for the first couple days, but now I'm back to turning the key and not getting a response. I'm changing oil in a couple days and while I'm under the truck, I'm going to check the battery ground, although I don't suspect I'll find anything I shouldn't. I'm also beginning to lean toward having either a bad starter or possibly an issue with a cable leading to the starter. If anyone has any suggestions... I'm all ears. Thanks.

 

Do you hear the starter relay click in the front fuse block? Do you have a meter and can you check the relay socket and the connection to the starter motor? Only about three things in that chain besides the ignition switch. Oh, there's a fuse.

 

I'm installing new front break rotors and pads tomorrow night and will check on your suggestion. The only problem is that it starts more often than it doesn't. At least for now. Will let you know what I find. BTW, I'm not much of an electrician, but should I be looking for 12V at the relay socket and starter motor? Thanks for the help.

 

HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!! i just replaced the starter switch and starter relay and i still have the same problem :hissy::hissy::hissy::hissy::hissy: how do i jump the starter to see if that is the problem and where is it located:bonk::bonk::bonk:

 

Hi guy just used your instution to change mine on the 2004 envoy that I have
now did yours have a battery light showing on after you replaced it???

richardr

 

Same problem! After replacing the switch, and with the key out I was able to turn the key socket just enough for the battery light and the PRNDL to light up. VERY BAD! Thanks to awer25's pics, I removed the new switch and advanced the gear 1 position, to match the photos and BINGO! Works like a champ!

Thanks everybody and awer25!

 

Mellis--Great write up

:thx. I appreciated the write up on replacing the ignition switch. I have been lurking here to try and get a handle on the problems I've experienced lately with the 03 Envoy. Throwing codes, stalling, and cruise control not working randomly.

Went to dealer first with codes. They replaced the crank shaft position sensor ($340), and wrote on the invoice "other issues may still exist". That's when I started looking myself at the possible "issues". By the way, the problem returned in about 200 miles.

I cleaned the TB, which seemed to help, but within 100 miles the cruise control would trip off at speed, and the rig was dying as well at slow speed.

I bought a new ignition switch and installed yesterday. Thanks to this write-up and pics, the install went well. Have driven so far about 50 miles and all seems OK so far.

I would add to the write up the following: Remove the two screws that hold the knee panel in place. It's not necessary to remove it, but removing the screws helps taking the lower steering column cover off (more clearance).

Secondly, and very important, don't disturb the position of the gear as you remove the switch. It's a challenge because the wire connector comes off kinda hard and the chance to move the gear occurs here. When its out, mark a couple of the teeth on the tops with a black sharpie and at the cooresponding place on the housing so if it does move you can put it back where it belongs. The new switch comes with the gear in the wrong position, at least mine did, so it's necessary to move it and without a reference on the old one its a guess. Mine went in the the right position the first time and started up without issues.

 

Yes donot mass withe old teeth match them up and they will go rite in dont turn a 15 min job into a 60 min

 

Ignition Switch Problem

My problem started off as a motor noise running while the key was removed from my 2002 GMC Envoy. It turned into a no start issue while I tried to remove the ignition switch.

After speaking to a guy at autozone he suggested that I try out an ignition switch since I was getting an ABS light along with the ABS motor running with the car off. We figured it was a cheap try before I drove it to the shop.

So I pulled the ABS fuse to stop the ABS motor and went about removing the ignition switch. I also disconnected the battery.

I pulled the ignition switch out of the cylinder but I could not get the wire connector off the ignition switch easily so I decided to call it a day and try tomorrow. I did screw up and moved the teeth on the ignition switch, but I didn't think this mattered since I was going to put the new one in tomorrow.

Since I gave up for the day, I decided to push the old ignition switch back in place. I did connect the battery.

I tried readjusting the ignition teeth on my old ignition switch (4 settings) and I get door chimes, interior lights, but the key gets stuck, no dash lights, no radio power, and I can't shift out of gear and of course the Envoy won't start. :worried:

I'll put up another post after I put in the new ignition switch, any thoughts in the meantime?

 

Ignition switch teeth alignment

I recently replaced the ignition switch on my 05 TB to correct the ABS/brake light / blower fan issue. After initially misaligning the teeth on the switch leaving me in the ACC position when I pulled the key out, I think I now have the alignment correct since all 4 key positions are available.

Now I have a new problem, however. The engine is surging when operating at low speeds.

Could this be caused by the teeth being slightly misaligned still?

If so, can anyone describe the proper way to align the teeth (other than line up with the old switch)?

 

New Ignition Switch

I was able to put the new ignition swithc on, had to fiddle with the adjustment, but the vehicle fires up, but still the ABS motor runs with the key out. I'll look on another thread on that issue.

 

i really need help! lock cylinder is stuck in the on position. installed a new switch and lock cylinder and its still stuck in the on position. dont know what to do now.

 

Thanks for the great write up. I had the P1682 code show up, so I reset it, and went to the store. Got out of the store and my vehicle started, ran rough, dash lit up like an xmas tree, and dash went dim. I tried to start and nothing, the radio stayed on constantly. After checking the site and running to the local dealership, I replaced the switch and all is good :yes:

 

Pics of initial gear position

I just changed my ignition switch (just preventative) and took some pics of the initial gear position which should help some people. The pics show the position of the gear with the ignition off and the key out (i.e. as you would be installing it). For reference, there is a gap in the gears about the width of a missing tooth. The gap has been circled in red in the pics (it's technically just below flush with the top of the switch).

 

I just changed my ignition switch (just preventative) ...

A most excellent and clever tactic! :hail: :thumbsup: Don't let it fail on a dark and stormy night with no cell phone coverage in a neighborhood that reminds you of the Mos Eisley Spaceport Red Light District. :ugh: :sadcry:

 

I have the iPad in the Envoy now and just completed it. One way to match the gears up is to take a red sharpie and mark the teeth at the top and bottom that are exposed then count back to the stop. Then take your new one and count back.

What I don't understand is how does this $34 part cause so many issues and how is it Auto Zone gives me a lifetime warranty but GM only last 84K miles??

 

Replaced the switch, still same issues

Ok, so heres my situation. I was having the "abs", "(!)(P)", "service 4wd" and the airbag light all comeing on and displaying unknown driver across the DIC and then back to driver 1. Took it to the shop and they said it was the ignition switch. I replaced it, just like in the photos. I still have the same problems. The gears are lined up right as well. The weird thing is that everything else in the vehicle works like it's supposed to. Stereo, a/c, vent's, seats etc. I am only having issues with the above mentioned problems. What the heck is going on????

 

I change my ignition switch a month ago and now star the same problem but I hit the starter with a pice of wood and it cranks normally with no issue but at night when it rest in the morning won't star is a f nightmare this f cars

 

Sounds like the solenoid on the starter (I'm assuming these starters have the usual attached solenoid).

 

Thanks to this thread I replaced mine this morning. Envoy shut off about 30' after leaving the driveway in the middle of the road. Popped the shifter solenoid out to get it in neutral and push it back. New switch from Autozone, 3 or 4 adjustments and good to go. Took longer to put the console and panels back in it.

:thumbsup:

 

ignition system cover problems

I am having problems separating the covers to get my ignition switch out on 2007 envoy with a 5.3. Could someone please give me some advice? Puget

 

I am having problems separating the covers to get my ignition switch out on 2007 envoy with a 5.3. Could someone please give me some advice? Puget

I assume you are referring to the 3 piece plastic/rubber shroud around the column. It took me a while since I was worried that I would break it. However with a little coaxing and gentle prying at the seams from the back side first, it all came apart and then reassembled okay.

 

im waiting for my switch to arrive (prob this afternoon) and im going to change mine today. any pointers guys i should watch out or watch for? and i ordered the GM# 15242754 should i have ordered another the reason i ask because ill prob go through this again in a few years

 

... any pointers guys i should watch out or watch for?...

Yeah. Don't break your clip. :dielaugh: Oops, too late.

 

k i installed mine, i messed up the pattern and had to keep taking it out and trying it again but i got it after a few minutes. if you ever mess up or forget the pattern ill give you a tip: when youre getting close if you try and turn the ignition without the key the battery light will come. in this case take the switch out move it one notch over and you should be good to go. and be very careful with the clip which hold the switch in i broke mine and i had to put some crazy glue just to be sure but if you do bust the clip even without it itll hold nice and tight in place. but next time i need to change mine and going to have a lot of fun undoing that crazy glue.

ps i also noticed envoy/trailblazers are very easy to steal when i had the switch connected and in my hands i pushed it all the way and the engine started (didnt start everytime) and i was like whaaat lol looked at my keys sitting on the passanger seat, put it in drive and it went

 

I changed my ign switch today and I'm in worse of a situation that I was, the prob where the chime stays on when I take out the key is still occurring and now when I start the car there's a second delay (when my key is turned all the way) for the engine to start

 

the teeth probably aren't aligned correctly... take it out and try again....

As for me, my 3/36 warranty expired 8/1/2010...

Guess what, I drive to Dunkin Donuts/Baskin Robbins just now to get my kids a shake, come out, key in the ignition, turn it over.... All the lights go out.... dead..

Try and pull the key out.... stuck... open the driver door, instr panel comes back on, air blasting radio on... turn off everything, try and turn over ign again... All the lights go out.... dead... again...

open door again - nothing, pop the hood.... , instr panel comes back on, air blasting radio on... again...

Did this 5-6 times finally took the key out and walked home.... 1/3 mile with the kids...

Guess I'll be going to the dealer to pick up an ign switch.... At least I'm legally parked...

 

Positioning the ignition switch

Installing the switch in the right position is a bit tricky. I found you need the battery on and with the swicth connected but not installed and looking at it facing the drivers door turn the gears clockwise one tooth at a time until the lights on the dash go off. The switch is not in one of the spots where the gears click into a position. The last light to go off is the battery. When the battery light goes off slide the switch back in. You may have to fiddle with the lock cylinder or when in the battery light will come back on. This means you are one tooth off. Pull it back out and turn one tooth again and try.

Hopr this helps, it took me about 15 min for this job with the help of this site. Unfortunately it was not the cause of my electrical problem, so to the dealership it goes to find out what is wrong.:crazy: