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2006 chevy trailblazer_ls
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672 Posts
I constantly hear about dealerships being called "stealerships", hear all the ongoing negatives all the time.

Yet, after reading this two page thread and hearing of all the difficulties with the starter R & R, I'm pleased to say my Chevy dealer stuck with the flat time guide of .9 hours to replace this starter in my '06 T.B.

F.Y.I, .9 = 54 minutes.
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_ls
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9 Posts
I constantly hear about dealerships being called "stealerships", hear all the ongoing negatives all the time.

Yet, after reading this two page thread and hearing of all the difficulties with the starter R & R, I'm pleased to say my Chevy dealer stuck with the flat time guide of .9 hours to replace this starter in my '06 T.B.

F.Y.I, .9 = 54 minutes.
1. Someone who doesn't know why their car isn't starting might have to pay $200+ for the dealership to 'run the diagnostics'
2. I got my new starter (TYC Reviews on site and Amazon were positive) for $71 pretested and shipped from RockAuto.com .. OP says he yanked one used for $34.
3. Some people LIKE working on their cars.. I hate having problems but I have a huge DIY streak in me.. been tinkering with cars from the first I bought ... so this on NYE 9 am as Day 2... was my PLEASURE to do
Glad you're up and running ... that's what's important
To each his own :cool:
 

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2004 gmc envoy_sle_xl
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New starter in my '04

I'm the latest starter installer in this thread. I was forced to do this in my driveway today (January 11) in Massachusetts. Fortunately, it was 53 degrees. I found a NEW starter on Amazon believe it or not - for $91! The remans in stock around here were much more.

The 6' -1" mechanic's post earlier in this thread was right - get something to stand on - 6 to 8 inches is all most people need. If you don't, you'll be stretching and straining. Not fun. Also remove the aluminum finned heat sink with the three electrical connectors - no need to unbolt the electrical connectors though - from the mount by removing 2 bolts on top and 2 hexnuts on the bottom. Then undo the clip that holds the wiring harness in place that is closest to the starter and then push the harness down towards the ground (around the starter). That will give you a very good view of the upper nut and stud. I didn't need to remove the wheel as undoing the heat sink and moving the harness made viewing easy.

I ran out of light but managed to disconnect, remove and reinstall into position (and loosely secure it with the lower bolt) in about an hour. Tomorrow I'll thread the nut on the upper stud and lock it - and the lower bolt - down. Then secure the two terminals and re-secure the harness and heat sink. I doubt it will take more than about 30 minutes or so.

Thanks to the OP and everyone before me that left comments that made this job easier for me to do!
 

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Ok, guys, I give up on the 2nd nut, I did all the job but spent a lot of time trying to reach that nut and there is no way. I secured very tight the first one and the starter got no movement at all. everything is working fine and the truck is now back in business. How did I remove the nut? well it seems that the starter was changed before and the person who did the job just left it loose, so i could remove it with my fingers. Is there any way I can leave it there just on 1 bolt and check it periodically?
Thanks
I did the same , damn nut but now my starter is lose n makes a horific sound ..it might b a good idea 2 find sum1 ..a friend whom can help u out ...i mean the nutz a pain but with thin arms n patience piece of cake ...
 
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