Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum banner
1 - 20 of 179 Posts

·
Registered
2003 chevy trailblazer_ls
Joined
·
39 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is my first post. I have a 2003 Trailblazer and was recently diagnosed with a bad fan clutch, rear sway bar links and fan blower resistor. Ironcially, I took my vehicle in to the dealer several times for the "knocking noise" and for the fan blower not working on speeds 1 or 2 - WHILE I WAS UNDER WARRANTY. Their response for the knocking problem was that they could not duplicate it and their response for the fan blower was they could not find the problem. Well i took it in again yesterday and told them to keep the vehicle until they find the problems. NOW I AM OUT OF WARRANTY and this is what they tell me "You need a new fan clutch, a fan blower resistor replaced and both rear sway bar links replaced." They wanted to charge me $700 for fan clutch. $250 for real sway bar links and $100 for resistor. They also charged me $70 just to tell me that information!!! I think this is outragous that they did not care to diagnose while I was under warranty, but now that it is out of my pocket its a different story.

I have read thread after thread about the fan clutch replacement. I am going to order the new part 15293048 from gmpartsdirect.com and attempt the replacement myself. I have not been able to find a good step by step with pics on how to accomplsih this. Does anybody know where one is available?? I am going to Autozone shortly to see if they have a fan clutch wrench I can rent to complete the job.
 

·
Registered
2002 chevy trailblazer_ls
Joined
·
2,232 Posts
Here's step-by-step from a Haynes manual

Warning:The engine must be completely cool when this procedure is performed .

Note: A special fan clutch wrench is required (GM#46406 or Equivalent)

1.Remove the bolts and push pins that attach the intake air baffle to the radiator support,then remove the baffle. (On 2002s only)
2.Disconnect the transmission cooler lines at the engine bracket and fan shroud.
3.Disconnect the electro-viscous clutch electrical connector from the shroud.
4.Remove the upper radiator hose from the radiator;be prepared for coolant spillage.
5.Remove the fan clutch hub from the water pump by turning it counterclockwise.
6.Unclip the shroud from the radiator side panels then tilt the condenser and radiator forward.This will be easier if someone assists you.
7.Remove the fan and shroud as one unit by lifting straight up as the condenser and radiator are being held in the forward position.
8.The fan can now be unbolted from the clutch, if necessary.Be sure to tighten the fan-to-clutch bolts to the torque listed in this chapter's specifications(20 Ft.-Lbs.)!
9.Installation is reverse removal,Tighten the fan hub nut to the torque listed in this chapter's specifications(41 FT.-Lbs)!
10. Check the coolant,adding as necessary to bring it to the appropiate level.



You can replace all 4, front and back, stabilizer links with Moogs for about $100 yourself. If the rears are worn the fronts probably are too.

The blower resistor I think runs about $25. You can do that yourself. Behind the glove box door and blower motor.

Dealers still charging $700 for that clutch job based on old labor rates and parts price, when part has gone down in price about half what it was and it takes them less than an hour to actually do the job. The $70 diagnostic fee seems about normal these days.
 

·
Registered
2003 chevy trailblazer_ls
Joined
·
39 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
THANKS!!! for the information. I will keep you updated on my progress. I am going to focues on doing the fan clutch first as it is most imporant in my opinon.
 

·
Registered
2002 chevy trailblazer_lt
Joined
·
517 Posts
I borrowed mine from Autozone. Trust me, you will not get it off without it.
 

·
Premium Member
2003 isuzu ascender
Joined
·
730 Posts
bullethole said:
I borrowed mine from Autozone. Trust me, you will not get it off without it.
Well........ I actually did but................. Geez-Us Cripes!! What an unbelieveable pain in the arse - and I ended up breaking the fan shroud in the process!! Never again without the proper tool! :no:

Coach Steve
 

·
Registered
2002 chevy trailblazer_lt
Joined
·
517 Posts
I told you! With the removal tool it is the easiest part of the job. Now about the garage floor drain.....my fantasy is a drain in every room.:crazy:
 

·
Registered
2006 chevy
Joined
·
849 Posts
FYI, I have a new 15293048 Fan Clutch for sale (classifieds) for $125. Much cheaper than GMPD. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
146 Posts
i would call the gm rep and explain everything to him. hopefully you have records of trips to the dealership. you should be able to get everything fixed under warranty.
 

·
Registered
2002 chevy trailblazer_lt
Joined
·
517 Posts
One of the first signs is a clicking noise coming from the fan. This is the fan cycling and trying to lock and unlock based on the info coming from the computer. One sure way to tell is to unplug the fan clutch at the top of the shroud. If the clicking stops you have a clutch failing. Mine clicked for about a year before failing. If it fails you will know. It locks up and will spin at the same revs as the water pump. Everyone will hear you coming. Sounds like a crop duster. Even now on very hot days right after start up I will hear the fan lock up at takeoff but the computer klicks in and it cycles like it should. By the way, I had to get a flash at the dealer when I put the new part no. on. The software is different for the new style fan.
 

·
Northwest Chapter
Joined
·
11,824 Posts
bullethole said:
One of the first signs is a clicking noise coming from the fan. This is the fan cycling and trying to lock and unlock based on the info coming from the computer. One sure way to tell is to unplug the fan clutch at the top of the shroud. If the clicking stops you have a clutch failing. Mine clicked for about a year before failing. If it fails you will know. It locks up and will spin at the same revs as the water pump. Everyone will hear you coming. Sounds like a crop duster. Even now on very hot days right after start up I will hear the fan lock up at takeoff but the computer klicks in and it cycles like it should. By the way, I had to get a flash at the dealer when I put the new part no. on. The software is different for the new style fan.
Great, mine has clicked for the past year plus at startup for about 20sec or so. Just time before it goes out, Im sure.:mad:
 

·
Banned
chevy
Joined
·
12,260 Posts
ScarabEpic22 said:
Great, mine has clicked for the past year plus at startup for about 20sec or so. Just time before it goes out, Im sure.:mad:
:rotfl: mine clicks like that on cold mornings at start up. Its too warm now for the dealership to reproduce the problem. I am waiting til winter.....hopefully I will still be in warranty.:eek:
 

·
Registered
2003 chevy trailblazer_ls
Joined
·
39 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I ordered a fan clutch...received the following... is this a TRUE GM OEM part, specifically part number 15293048





thanks!
 

·
Banned
2003 chevy trailblazer_lt_ext
Joined
·
771 Posts
Would the clicking be there even if you don't have the AC on? Mine is clicking at startup with no ac on. I'm getting hot air blowing when I put the AC on. I think mine may be gone too.




bullethole said:
One of the first signs is a clicking noise coming from the fan. This is the fan cycling and trying to lock and unlock based on the info coming from the computer. One sure way to tell is to unplug the fan clutch at the top of the shroud. If the clicking stops you have a clutch failing. Mine clicked for about a year before failing. If it fails you will know. It locks up and will spin at the same revs as the water pump. Everyone will hear you coming. Sounds like a crop duster. Even now on very hot days right after start up I will hear the fan lock up at takeoff but the computer klicks in and it cycles like it should. By the way, I had to get a flash at the dealer when I put the new part no. on. The software is different for the new style fan.
 

·
Registered
2002 chevy trailblazer_lt
Joined
·
517 Posts
Yes it will still click. The way to troubleshoot is to open the hood and cold start. standing at the front you will see a plug on the right hand side of the shroud at the top. If you hear the clicking quickly undo the plug. If the noise stops it is your fan clutch. Like I said before, mine clicked for months before failure. When it goes you will know it.:mad:
 

·
Registered
2006 chevy
Joined
·
849 Posts
mattbuff5 said:
I ordered a fan clutch...received the following... is this a TRUE GM OEM part, specifically part number 15293048


thanks!

YES, that is the correct replacement (new, revised) fan clutch. Pay no attention to the incorrect (-047) P/N listed on the Behr label.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,312 Posts
My fan clutch was just replaced under warranty yesterday part # 15293048 is printed on invoice. Far as symptons, the only one I had was A/C started blowing hot air and the rear A/C Stop working. But it all good now. I hope this helps someone :cool: .
 

·
Premium Member
2003 isuzu ascender
Joined
·
730 Posts
bullethole said:
... Now about the garage floor drain.....my fantasy is a drain in every room.:crazy:
You Go Man....You Go!! :D

Coach Steve
 

·
Banned
2003 chevy trailblazer_lt_ext
Joined
·
771 Posts
Thanks, Did your test, yep that's the problem all right. How would I know when it goes completely ?




bullethole said:
Yes it will still click. The way to troubleshoot is to open the hood and cold start. standing at the front you will see a plug on the right hand side of the shroud at the top. If you hear the clicking quickly undo the plug. If the noise stops it is your fan clutch. Like I said before, mine clicked for months before failure. When it goes you will know it.:mad:
 
1 - 20 of 179 Posts
Top