The pics in post #51 are all generic, and not from a trailvoy. I have a dead bearing I could bash apart if you're interested.
The bearings that you purchased from MI bearing are NOT Timkens, but they are high quality Made in US bearings. I just installed a set in my truck yesterday, and it runs beautiful.This thread is very good, however I notice everyone is going out and doing the entire hub replacement.
there are bearings at rockauto sold for the application, where nearly everyone else is replacing the entire hub.
one fella here said we can't get to the bearings in the hub.
i just bought from http://mibearings.com/wheel-bearing/513188.html.
if this is the real deal timken at $130 plus $22 shipping, i am happy; but am curious if the bearing options would have been cheaper for $40 each. i didn't see race replacements with the bearing package.
Rockauto acdelco oem hubs are $240. I think timken is good stuff, so I've been ambivilent about whether to go hub or bearings without an authority about disecting a hub.
when i get my new hubs, i'll see if i can rebuild one and will answer my own question, unless someone's already done it.
$40 bearings is cheaper than $152 hubs; but i don't have the entire story yet.:m2:
Never saw these listed, and I'm as sure as I can be (replaced wheel bearings 8 times so far on my vehicle and others).there are bearings at rockauto sold for the application,
I only posted because I know for a fact that the 1949 Oldsmobile had ball bearings in the front wheels. I was driving my Fathers' car one evening and heard a squeaking in the front. Pulled the wheels the next day and the bearings were dry and had been so hot that the ball bearings had turned purple. Thought maybe GM had digressed to the good old days.The pics in post #51 are all generic, and not from a trailvoy. I have a dead bearing I could bash apart if you're interested.
I agree. I might cost you a lot more than a few bucks if those sweatshop bearings fail catastrophically at say 80 or 90 mph. I worked in the bearing industry. Inferior quality "balls" , "races" , lubricant and heatreating are not something to mess with in drivelines. Particularily the balls. They are hardened you know, and ride in between the "inners" and "outers". Races I mean. The lubricant is also very important. A US manufacturer would only use certified lubricant.For all those wondering about Ebay off brand bearings BEWARE! The factory went out on me so i ordered a Chinese bearing and it went within 20k miles and i thought what the heck??? So i ordered a PAIR of Chinese bearings thinking maybe i tighened the axle nut to tight or something and caused the first one to prematurely fail. Well Chinese#2 lasted about 15k and now im on my 3rd Chinese bearing. Never again! Spend the extra for a good name!
Tetchan-san, I appreciate the disassembled bearing race photos, did the balls score against the inner or outer race or the retainer? I love to look at catastropic bearing failures! Can you provide us some photos of your truck in Japan? If you are not living on a military base wher do you park? It must be a chore to maintain an American Truck in Japan.Hi, I am new to this forum and living in Japan. I have an 02 Chev TB with 55K on it.
I have done this on my front left wheel bearing.. Great instructions! :thx
I bought a front arm Assy from a kind of ebay very cheap only $50. Bacause our dealer priced it $900 for one Hub assy, crazy!!
I disassembled the old hub and investigated the root cause of the noise. I broke the seal and bearing plastic cage, then washed the grease. Finally I found peeling on the outer race surface as you can see between the balls.