No. The rear axle is a solid tube design and do not have hub assemblies. Rather, they have serviceable bearings that are pressed in. Their failure presents a difference noise and to be honest, they dont fail often like the front hubs do.hw can you tell what front hub is bad. When I turn right the noise goes away. could it be the back?
Beating my head against the wall on this one, had the rumble when driving and replaced both front bearings. Had no problems with the switch out, wiring ran great, parts came off and went on easy, etc....it was to good to be true. Went to jump in and take it for a spin and see how it was running now. Rumble is now gone but NOW I have a problem....
My ABS light has now come on, AND I am getting a message saying "Service Stabilitrak" with that light on also. I have checked the wires, the connections, everything I can think of and it all visually looks fine and is all connected.
FYI, 2006 TB EXT 4x4 w/ I-6. Replaced with Timken new bearing parts.
I still have the wires from the old ones should I switch them out? Is there any type of seal that I need to use where it hooks to the bearing since its exposed to all the elements there or will it seal fine just by screwing it down?
thanks to this site for the helpful tips.
just did both driver and passenger side bearings - took about 1 hour each side.
felt some front end vibration at around 35-40 mph, only when going straight. turning left/right did not make any noticeable changes in sound/vibe. truck has 89.5k on the oem hubs.
purchased the el-cheapo china parts on ebay for $44/ea. buyer beware, we'll see how they hold up.
i think my 18mm offset box end wrench is permanently attached to my hand now... the "pro" way to do it would be to get a snap-on shallow 6 point integrated swivel impact and run the 3 hub bolts off in a snap. the darn things had about an inch of blue loctite on them from the factory. on top of that, there isn't much room to swing the wrench (1/8 turn....forever). a normal ratchet/swivel/socket will not fit in there. if you need to break them loose at the start, there is just enough room for a 1/2" breaker bar and shallow 18mm socket.
a 36mm socket and impact gun took care of the axle nut nicely. the pass side hub came off with a slight hit from a 3lb sledge. the driver side was a little more stubborn, it yielded to a 2-jaw gear puller (not seized up though). i think the pb-blaster helped free up the splines.
i live in the rust belt (snowy salty winters), and man did the backing plates take a beating. they're so corroded that i was debating whether to replace them (major rust flakes and swelling), but said what the heck and put them back on.
as previous posts have stated, the old hubs did not "feel" worn out (excess play/slop), so i'm not sure which side was making the noise. replaced both sides just to be safe.
took it out for test drive - no more high pitch vibration through the steering wheel anymore. i fixed the bearings before they started to make the loud humming/vibration that some people notice. problem solved.
counting the days before the cv shafts and ball joints give out...
put some anti-seize on the cv splines for just this future occasion