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2005 chevy trailblazer_ss_3ss
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40 Posts
Many of use have used those parts.

Unfortunately, we're no longer posting answers here due to a dispute with the new site owners, who are not trailvoy owners or enthusiasts.

 

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2005 chevy trailblazer_lt
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41 Posts
Front hub Which one?

hw can you tell what front hub is bad. When I turn right the noise goes away. could it be the back?
 

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2002 chevy trailblazer_lt
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438 Posts
hw can you tell what front hub is bad. When I turn right the noise goes away. could it be the back?
No. The rear axle is a solid tube design and do not have hub assemblies. Rather, they have serviceable bearings that are pressed in. Their failure presents a difference noise and to be honest, they dont fail often like the front hubs do.

Usually, if you turn the wheel to the right and the noise appears, its the left bearing that is bad. The bad bearing will make noise any time a load is put to it and when you turn right, the weight of the truck shifts to the left side. You could also jack the front end up and grab the tire. Try to wiggle it and feel/look for any movement. However, not all bearings that go bad have any noticeable play in them.
FWIW, each time my front hub/bearing assemblies have went bad, once I had them off the truck I could feel the bad bearing by spinning it by hand. I never had play that could be visibly seen by grabbing the tire.
 

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2007 chevy trailblazer_lt
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14 Posts
Are these assemblies rebuildable with new bearings? Was wondering if I rebuild my stock assemblies with new Timken bearings, and keep them for spares when these Chinese ones fail.
 

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2006 chevy trailblazer_ls
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4 Posts
just replaced the right front on my 06 4x4 with 122k. i followed the directions int he first post. overall very easy. the old hub did require a few good hits with a hammer to get it out. i installed a timken hub/bearing.
 

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2006 chevy trailblazer_lt_ext
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2 Posts
Beating my head against the wall on this one, had the rumble when driving and replaced both front bearings. Had no problems with the switch out, wiring ran great, parts came off and went on easy, etc....it was to good to be true. Went to jump in and take it for a spin and see how it was running now. Rumble is now gone but NOW I have a problem....

My ABS light has now come on, AND I am getting a message saying "Service Stabilitrak" with that light on also. I have checked the wires, the connections, everything I can think of and it all visually looks fine and is all connected.

FYI, 2006 TB EXT 4x4 w/ I-6. Replaced with Timken new bearing parts.

I still have the wires from the old ones should I switch them out? Is there any type of seal that I need to use where it hooks to the bearing since its exposed to all the elements there or will it seal fine just by screwing it down?
 

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2009 saab 9_7x
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89 Posts
Jayfire

I had the same issue with the ABS light coming on after I swapped the wheel bearing out. The wiring for the ABS sensor was not secured to the spindle as the plastic plug / snap did not connect. This caused the wire to flop around and give the false light. I used wire ties to tie up the wiring to the spindle and it worked like a charm. I am on the road for the next week but can take pictures to show you what I did.
 

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2003 chevy trailblazer_lt_ext
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331 Posts
Beating my head against the wall on this one, had the rumble when driving and replaced both front bearings. Had no problems with the switch out, wiring ran great, parts came off and went on easy, etc....it was to good to be true. Went to jump in and take it for a spin and see how it was running now. Rumble is now gone but NOW I have a problem....

My ABS light has now come on, AND I am getting a message saying "Service Stabilitrak" with that light on also. I have checked the wires, the connections, everything I can think of and it all visually looks fine and is all connected.

FYI, 2006 TB EXT 4x4 w/ I-6. Replaced with Timken new bearing parts.

I still have the wires from the old ones should I switch them out? Is there any type of seal that I need to use where it hooks to the bearing since its exposed to all the elements there or will it seal fine just by screwing it down?

ABS would engage every time I steped on the brake after replacing both hubs, I just took them out and replaced them again. Take them back to the store and tell them your problem, and since you don't know wich side is causing the problem you want to exchange them both, it solved my problem.
 

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2006 chevy trailblazer_lt_ext
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Was exhausted last night but I have no time this week to get back to them so I went back out and worked on them some more last night....till midnight, errr!

I hooked up the old wiring harness and just left the old bearing on the ground. I hooked it to one side then the other. When I hooked it to the driver side the lights went out. I started to examine the wire closely and when I got to the end where the harness is I noticed that one of the two wires was slightly out of the back of the harness. When I looked at the inside where the connection is, I saw that one of the 2 male prongs was just barely in the harness.

It seems that when they assembled the harness they didn't secure, or glue the back of the connection well and when I would go to hook it into the receiving harness it was being pushed out the back. Simple fix, pushed it back in and applied a small amount of super glue to the back of the harness. Waited just a few and plugged it back in. Light is now off and it works fine. It sucks that when you buy the more expensive bearings that you would expect them to be better quality. Instead I had to spend a couple extra hours online and tearing it all apart and reassembling it all again trying to track down the problem. And then to find out that it was a very minuscule thing to notice just out of sheer luck cause it was hanging at the right angle....err would have been pissed cause next thing was to take it all off, drive 30 mins to get a new one if it's in stock and put a new one on again. Would not have been happy!

Thanks for the replies and it sounds like the first one was similar with crappy harness problems. Hope this helps someone else if you have the same problem.
 

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2002 chevy trailblazer_lt
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11 Posts
Thanks for help

Thanks for the instructions. I was able to replace the right front wheel bearing without problem. NTB wanted $350 to do it.

I wonder if there is design flaw somewhere. I had to replace the right front wheel bearing at 40K, the left last year around 90K, and the right again at 110K.

Thanks again
 

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2006 gmc envoy_slt
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31 Posts
This is covered under GM extended warranty if you have it

Thanks for this excellent post. I recently started to hear a droning sound from the front and felt vibration through the steering wheel - another poster described it as similar to a baseball card flapping in the spokes of a bicycle wheel. First I suspected my tires. I inspected all four and noticed the two front tires were worn down to the wear indicator bars on the outside of the tread. I figured the wear indicator bars must be the cause of this noise and vibration. So I went to Costco and got new tires installed. I asked for only two tires but the tire guy said all four tires must be replaced since 4WD vehicles rely on closely matched tires for the driveline to operate properly; it is not advisable to drive around with one or more tires having slightly different diameters. So the new rubber was installed in all four corners. But when I drove away, the droning and vibration were still there!

Further Trailvoy reading landed me at this post and I then figured the wheel bearings were probably the culprit. However, I just don't have the time to tackle this repair myself, nor can I be bothered with sourcing the parts or extra tools. Then I read further and noticed one poster mentioned that his extended warranty covered this.

Fantastic! I looked into it and indeed my extended warranty covers this. I took the Envoy into the dealership today and they replaced both front wheel bearings/hub assemblies. The cost of parts was $314 each side plus $175 total labour for a total cost of $804. As this was covered under the extended warranty, I only had to pay the $100 deductible. Nice!

Now I'm back on the road, smooth and quiet again!
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_lt_ext
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18 Posts
driver side done

Had the howl going on with the 2004 and determined by doing the swerve test that it was the driver side.

Came apart fairly easy (except for all that loctite on the hub bolts). Back seal cap on the bearing was separated and there was quite a bit of rust on the inside of the bearing - definately the problem - 93K miles.

Replaced with Timken 3 yr warranty hub which I got at Autozone for $125 (they matched advance auto's online price which was 25% off) yahoo!!

Also did the throttle body cleaning and seafoamed the intake using their new spray last week. Had a bit of a cloud going but nothing drastic. Much improved there with smooth idle instead of sloppy idle.

Next up CAT (have had a CAT code for a while). Oh boy!!
 

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2002 chevy trailblazer_ls
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6 Posts
Just as a follow up, I bought the cheap ones on eBay and they lasted two years, just had to re-do the drivers side with some more expensive ones. Don't go cheap like I did!
 

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2003 gmc envoy_slt
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56 Posts
follow up on chinese wheel front wheel hub bearings

thanks to this site for the helpful tips.
just did both driver and passenger side bearings - took about 1 hour each side.
felt some front end vibration at around 35-40 mph, only when going straight. turning left/right did not make any noticeable changes in sound/vibe. truck has 89.5k on the oem hubs.
purchased the el-cheapo china parts on ebay for $44/ea. buyer beware, we'll see how they hold up.
i think my 18mm offset box end wrench is permanently attached to my hand now... the "pro" way to do it would be to get a snap-on shallow 6 point integrated swivel impact and run the 3 hub bolts off in a snap. the darn things had about an inch of blue loctite on them from the factory. on top of that, there isn't much room to swing the wrench (1/8 turn....forever). a normal ratchet/swivel/socket will not fit in there. if you need to break them loose at the start, there is just enough room for a 1/2" breaker bar and shallow 18mm socket.
a 36mm socket and impact gun took care of the axle nut nicely. the pass side hub came off with a slight hit from a 3lb sledge. the driver side was a little more stubborn, it yielded to a 2-jaw gear puller (not seized up though). i think the pb-blaster helped free up the splines.
i live in the rust belt (snowy salty winters), and man did the backing plates take a beating. they're so corroded that i was debating whether to replace them (major rust flakes and swelling), but said what the heck and put them back on.
as previous posts have stated, the old hubs did not "feel" worn out (excess play/slop), so i'm not sure which side was making the noise. replaced both sides just to be safe.
took it out for test drive - no more high pitch vibration through the steering wheel anymore. i fixed the bearings before they started to make the loud humming/vibration that some people notice. problem solved.
counting the days before the cv shafts and ball joints give out...
put some anti-seize on the cv splines for just this future occasion

here's a follow up on since 9/2010:
the left/driver side wheel bearing has failed - sounds a little crunchy when the wheel is spun by hand while jacked up. envoy has 120k, so that means i got 30.5k miles out of these cheap chinese front wheel hub bearings. not too bad in the grand scheme of things, but still an inconvenience. all the posts are true - you do get what you pay for. and with cheap bearings, you get reduced durability/life.

i sprung for a set of timken front hubs this time. ordered from rockauto for $140/ea. quite a bit more than the $44/ea china brand, but it is possible that they will last 3x as long. however, with any luck i won't have this vehicle for another 120k+120k=240k miles!

i see that the front brake splash shield / backing plates are now being made. ac delco has replacements on amazon for $24/ea. and even dorman makes the rear shields for $44/ea. i ordered a pair of front shields to replace my crumbling original ones.
 

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2006 chevy trailblazer_ls_ext
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41 Posts
Going to do the girlfriend's bad bearing(s) this weekend along with new front rotors and pads. Making an awful noise that sounds like something is rubbing up against the tire tread. Racket gets more pronounced when turning left and sounds as though its coming from the right side so I'm guess right bearing. Looks to be easier than my Silverado 2500...much lighter components, fewer bolts.

She's also getting the infamous ABS kicking on on dry pavement when stopping so the pair of bearings will fix that as well.

Neither wheel seems to have vertical wobble in it though so I'll be sure to double check everything as I disassemble. Could be bad bearings without a bad hub I guess.

Got mine from Advance Auto. Yes, I bought the cheaper bearings, but its a light usage vehicle and will likely be gone in a year or two anyway. $103 for the Driveworks bearking/hub assembly and I had a $40 off online coupon, so I ordered two as two separate transactions with in store pickup. $67 each with a 1 yr warranty.
 

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2006 gmc envoy_slt
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Haha, well I didn't see this till just now but I wanted to stop in and share I did this a while back...

Went smoother than I thought it would, coming up soon I've got to do breaks too. Her envoy has 108k on it with no major issues. Savin up for the inevitable transmission rebuild.
 

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2005 chevy trailblazer_ls
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11 Posts
Many, many thanks to eeehabt and the rest of you guys for this How To thread. :hail:
Original owner of my 05 TB with a bit over 97k miles on it. I had that loud off road tire whirring type sound but didn't notice any change in the noise when cornering left or right nor did I find any noticeable play in the wheels when jacked up so I was kinda hoping that it was the front diff fluid....yeah I know it was a stretch. I changed the fluid but it didn't help. I had my wife drive the vehicle while I sat in the back seat (should've done this first :duh: ) and noticed that the noise was primarily on drivers side front of vehicle. So I ended up getting two hub bearings (Timkens) and replacing both just in case. The only real snag I hit was getting the hub separated from the frame as it was rusted tight. I could push the halfshafts in slightly by hand so I knew they weren't stuck to the hub. Even after several soakings with Kroil I ended up using a chisel to finally break them loose. Now that they're replaced my TB runs quietly again!
Great write up and info, and once again you guys saved me a ton of money. :thx
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_ls
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8 Posts
GREAT WRITE UP!!!

I used this guide to replace my Bearing as well took about 1.5 hours, when changing this after I was done I noticed that my wheel has a wobble in it, everything is tight and secure could this be the ball joint, tie rod or combination?
I also need alignment but I am sure with this wobble it wthe alignment would not be done correctly.
When driving there is no wobble that is noticable, just about a 1/2 sway side to side , left to right if you are looking from the front.
 

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2006 chevy trailblazer_ls_ext
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24 Posts
How do you stop the half shaft from spinning while you are removing the axle nut?

ETA...Thanks for the suggestion of loosening the axle nut prior to taking things apart while the wheel and tire are still on the ground.
 
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