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2002 chevy trailblazer_ltz
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58 Posts
FYI to all- gmpartsdirect.com has part number 12615873 for $54.01, plus shipping.
 

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2004 gmc
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FYI to all- gmpartsdirect.com has part number 12615873 for $54.01, plus shipping.
In my experience, gmpartsdirect.com makes SURE to have the lowest posted price, and tack on higher shipping/handling to make up for it. Don't fall for their trick and dismiss other vendors until you compare the price to get it to your door.
 

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2002 chevy trailblazer_ltz
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That's an old eBay trick :). Shipping is $15. Puts it at $69 for 1.

After doing it for both one and 2 (in case our Colorado needs one- waiting for mama to wake up after 'girls night out' so she can watch our daughter for a few minutes), GMPD is still cheaper to my door when it's all said and done.
 

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2002 chevy trailblazer_ls
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261 Posts
I wasn't getting any codes but I decided to take mine out and clean it today. It appeared to be pretty clean as luck would have it. Here are some of the pictures I took.

PRIOR TO CLEANING










AFTER CLEANING
















Since I was taking the belt off anyway I decided to replace it. A while back I had to replace my water pump and went I picked up the serpentine belt the guy at the parts shop didnt ask me which size I needed and I failed to ask him which one he was giving me. I have to assume he gave me the shorter version for the longer wheel base model. It was a bear to get on but I did eventually get it on. Afterwords I have read about the difference in sizes so I picked up the correct size this morning. The new belt that was the correct size went on with no problems at all. When you really stomp on it you can tell the difference between the shorter belt and the longer belt. At top RPM I think the shorter belt makes the engine hesitate a bit. Probably because of how tight it is and puts an excessive load on every pulley that it runs. I don't get the same feeling or sound now with the correct size belt on.
 

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2002 gmc envoy_slt
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6 Posts
Took the advice of this thread and did a little maintenance on the actuator. Mine came out looking gummed up and missing the center screen. Without the correct part on hand I did a clean up job and reinstalled it to the delight of an idling envoy. I've been having trouble with the 0014 and 1345 codes for a while now and after throwing parts... seriously I have... I tried this. At first I couldn't get it out and struggled with it until I gabbed a hold of it with some channel locks. Either way we will see how long it last before the codes pop back on and the car starts to idle rough again. After 30+ miles today, still no code so hopefully I am in the clear.


I've already took a toothbrush to my throttle body three times already, replaced the sensor, replaced my K&N, changed the oil about 4 times with the oil cleaner, replaced the cam sensor, replaced the plugs, the ignition, replaced the fuel pump due to it being really low pressure in the 40's, the filter, chained the oil, replaced the front end with all new shocks and motor mounts, re-lubed the tailpipe, greased the breaks, cleaned the interior, and washed and waxed it. I also talked to her, read to her, granted I did read the Chilton's manual and she probbaly knew she was going under the socket so she spurted and puttered herself into reduced power mode while I was on the freeway. Recently we started to drive around with a bunch of water in the trunk as my wife and I have been noticing that when its loaded, it idles properly. Its weird as we'd hit Costco and all of sudden she's purring like a kitten and I can drive up to light without holding my foot and the gas and break at the same time. Its like driving a stick at every light. But now that this actuator is clean, I only pray that it will work because I am sick of it. The envoy has been the biggest pile since I bought it new in 02. From the dash completely going dead, to the computer dying, the battery dying every year, the complete air and radio assembly going dead, the fan clutch being replaced three times, the brakes going out and the front hubs destroying themselves, the mirrors being possessed, the OnStar never shutting off or always saying it needs services, the constant check engine light, the freaky electrical system... yea pull some fuses and watch the radio come on full blast... WTF!!!... this thing has been a nightmare. pS... please don't tell her I was typing this behind her back, I need to get to work in the morning.

Question: Is it bad to run it without the screen? I really am sick of buying parts for this thing so I think I am going to run it without the screen. It seems to work fine right now.

Question 2: Which way are the black band that hold the screen together supposed to point. I have seen in pictures her online that they point towards the bolt, semi inline with the connector if you position it in the normal spot shown in manuals. Is this correct?

I guess I have another question: Anyone have any luck with those engine flushes? They kind of scare me in that they have to be pulling much needed grease from the bearings.
 

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2002 chevy trailblazer_ltz
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58 Posts
How does one relube a tailpipe? Is that the muffler bearing you speak of : )

If you are using good oil, you wont need an engine flush. I've disassembled several engines that looked brand new inside and a few that didn't. That's why I only run Mobil 1.

Ordering and installing a new one teamed with a new TB solved our problems. Our tps and cam actuator dumped simultaneously.

As far as batteries go, are you maintaining them and are they properly secured? That's another thread altogether.

Knock on wood, ours has been a dream. PM is the key to longevity.
 

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2004 gmc envoy_slt
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13 Posts
Thanks for the "How to..." My truck was idling rough. After new plugs, cleaning throttle body, air filter, etc...I went for the camshaft position acuator solenoid cleaning. What I found was the sensor connection filled with oil. The screens were fine, but the gasket was bad. So $72 later ($64+shipping) I installed a new CPAS & it idles great!

:thx :woohoo:
 

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2005 chevy trailblazer_lt
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6 Posts
Sorry if I missed it when I scanned the thread, but is it normal/acceptable for your CPAS to have oil pooled INSIDE the connector?

Both the connector to the wiring harness and the CPAS female portion were filled/soaked.

EDIT: Finally used my noggin, and remembered our Colorado has the same engine minus a cylinder.

http://coloradofans.com/forums/view...sid=c09bfbe292f728f7194e542a8a34e539&start=25

If there is a screen missing, or oil in the connector, replace it.
Kind of old post but simple question about the solanoid. Is it suposed to spin when the bolt is tight? I took mine out and cleaned it. Thought it fixed the code but poped back on. Truck runs fine scanner sayscam position exhaust advanced timing bank 1. Replaced the cps already cleaned solanoid oil change. Not sure if actuator is supposed to spin doesn't seem right tho thx for the help in advance
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_lt
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32 Posts
BTW...NAPA is selling this part now for $31. I called just to see if they would carry it and to my suprise they had it.
 

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2002 gmc envoy_slt
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BTW...NAPA is selling this part now for $31. I called just to see if they would carry it and to my suprise they had it.

Somehow I cannot believe this is true.
(well I hope it's not true as I just purchased one for around $62).

Sure you have the right part and not the Camshaft Position Sensor thing.
Isn't the part #12615873 "Camshaft actuator solenoid valve"
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_lt
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Somehow I cannot believe this is true.
(well I hope it's not true as I just purchased one for around $62).

Sure you have the right part and not the Camshaft Position Sensor thing.
Isn't the part #12615873 "Camshaft actuator solenoid valve"
I lied...the guy swore it was the correct part, but NO he was quoting the camshaft position sensor! :duh:
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_ls_ext
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14 Posts
Do you think this could be why my wife's car idles rough while in drive but not in neutral? I have also noticed that the car does not accelerate very well. Would this be the problem too?
 

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2003 chevy trailblazer_ls
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559 Posts
Do you think this could be why my wife's car idles rough while in drive but not in neutral? I have also noticed that the car does not accelerate very well. Would this be the problem too?
I just replaced mine and it eliminated that idle your having i had the same thing. for a 30 dollar part its not that bad. Go for it it probably will help!. Or clean the throttle body. or sea foam the intake line.!
 

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2002 chevy trailblazer_ls
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8 Posts
confusion in part numbers

i had the rough idle prob. and cleaning did not help. pulled the CPAS again because i started having the misfire/reduced engine power problem. it was leaking and obviously bad. it is a pain because i was trying to have everything taken care of before i went on vacation. thought it did, and then at the moment we pulled into the condo at teh beach, it started acting the worst it ever has. after a day of diagnostics and checking connectors i pulled out the CPAS and that is when i saw the oil...

had to find one at the place i was, and get it fixed before my friends left with their cars, cause we are staying longer. i called around and one dealership said there were 2 parts, one for 02-04 and one for the newer ones. they older one was priced at $171 and the newer $92... not wanting to spend an extra $80 dollars for no real reason than GM wanted a diff part number i checked into it, and the number given here of #12615873 is right across the board, and is the $92 one. one dealer said that this was replaced by another number which i do not have that is also $92. but anyway for anyone else that runs across this prob, ignore the dealer and get the number listed here, or the replacement if the dealer doesn't have it.

EDIT: it took about 6-7 starts and maybe 15 miles or so for the SES light to go away, because i don't have a tool to clear the codes. it has been getting smoother and smoother idle as time goes by...
 
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