This is from the drivers side.
Inspected the bearing and it looked OK , not an easy thing to do.
When moving it by hand it was smooth. Since I can't get the carrier bearing out, I replaced the cup bearing.
Was cheap, $11.00 for entire bearing set from local auto parts store.
I plan to just install the new driver side diff. shaft seal (replacing mine because old seal was leaking a bit). I did not move the adjuster behind it. I marked the position with sharpie, then tried to rotate the adjuster with my finger. Since I could not move it, I will assume the adjuster did not move during or after seal removal.
I did mine this spring, both carrier bearings were shot. it would be a compete waste of time only changing the one drivers side race, you need to pull the diff and do both bearings and seals, and maby even the pinion bearings, to set the carrier bearings it is a rotational torque of the input shaft. Doing that measures the proper preload, and if the one race is pitted those flakes are suspended in the oil and going through all the bearings and gears.
fyi i figured all of this out exept the main question
the drivers side diff seal (the one that normally leaks onto axle and slings around)
is gm#14271618. this is the one i needed, called drivers side or left hand OUTER
the one that is also the drivers side is the seal that faces the oil pan, gm# 12479302 this is the one that the store will normally try to sell you... called drivers or left hand side INNER
the timken carrier bearing that you may normally find damaged under the adjuster nut is JL69310 (outer race only, hand removable) I found this at carquest on the shelf.
still need to know a good rule of thumb for reinstalling and preloading the adjuster without all the technical mumbo jumbo. the thing was loose enough that i could unscrew it by hand, so thats my starting point for reinstallation.
If the inner side adjuster hasn't moved, simply tighten the outer adjuster until there is a bit of tension on it. Careful use of a flat screwdriver and small hammer will work if you don't have the tool. Don't mar the threads.
All you are doing is setting preload on the carrier bearings with it. The carrier bearing preload is probably the least critical measurement of anything in the diff. Just get it tight.
Same one you replaced.... I did not see your post with part number GM14271618. I am a serious rookie with a Haynes Manual....DANGER DANGER. My seal is leaking and I am going to attempt a CV replacement (whole unit - no rebuild skills) so i figured i would fix it. I don't even know what a "race" is unless you are talking about NASCAR. I have ordered a bunch of suspension parts and I am going to give it a try...Ball Joints upper and lower, strut/shock module, wheel bearings...if it wears out I am replacing it. lots of vids on "how to" on the net and it all looks like stuff I can do except this leak. The ball joint press doesn't even scare me.
Same one on my 02 Envoy driver side outer seal dealer was the only place I could get it.
For what it's worth...
I originally did what you are going to do, that is replace the CV and the the seal.
The CV may not need to be replaced which was also my case but since I had it a part and had high mileage I decided to replace it.
But the seal soon wore out and there was a noise that got louder as well.
The second time I did the bearing cup and replaced the seal again.
Noise gone, fixed it
Thanks Steveo..Is there instructions on replaceing the bearing cup somewhere? Is it difficult? Is the part number of the bearing cup JL69310..I did read somewhere that somthing inside (bearing) causes the seal to go bad...My CV joint boots are toast that's why I am replacing them. The boots are screwed and one is clicking. Thanks for helping.. I am looking forward to doing this and just want to work out. By the way..if you order parts on-line from advance auto parts (150.00 at a time) and use promo code VISA they give you 50.00 off...paid around 102.00 with free shipping for the CV units
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