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2004 gmc envoy_sle_xuv
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, I have changed brakes on several vehicles over the years, usually without much fuss. Then comes my Envoy XUV. I am not sure if it was because the previous owner was from Chicago (more snow/ice/salt) or what, but this thing has been a pain! The pads (both front and back) are not too bad to change, but the rotors are a different story. For the life of me, I haven't been able to remove the front rotors. I took everything off the rotor, so it should just "pop" off. Half a can of PB Blaster and 2 hrs of beating with a hammer later, not even budged. Is there a trick? I noticed 2 "extra" holes drilled into the rotor. Do I need to use a gear puller or something to pull this thing off the hub or what? I have almost given up and am going to have to start to call around to have shop do it...

Any tricks or help is greatly appreciated!
 

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The two extra holes are threaded, to put in screws to turn the rotor into its own puller. If you bought the new rotors already, just examine them for the thread size. It's been posted, but I didn't memorize it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Given Up

Well, I tried the bolt method last night. Got the right size bolt into the holes and started to twist it in. There was some rust build up inside the bolt hole and after going in about 1/4", the bolt stopped turning. I actually applied so much force, that the rusted threads broke off...

I have finally given up. I gave it a good effort and tried everything in my power to get it off, but this one is a job for a shop. I called around to get some price estimates and labor alone is going to run about $120...

Sometimes you win, sometimes you don't. At least I tried, right?
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_ls
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Did you try a torch? Heat the crap out of the rotor hat around the hub and then use a hammer and block of wood to bang on the rotor, should knock it loose. FWIW, there have been cases in the GTO area of needing to use a sledge hammer to knock the front rotors loose on those.

Needless to say...re-install the new rotor with anti-sieze on the hub surface.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Did you try a torch? Heat the crap out of the rotor hat around the hub and then use a hammer and block of wood to bang on the rotor, should knock it loose.

I don't own a torch and even if I did, I would be afraid of ruining something in bearing by heating it up too much as I have never done that. I did beat the living crap out of it, but you just can't get a great angle on the thing laying on you back! Plus that stupid dust/heat shield thing only lets you have access to about 1/4 of the rotor at a time, so you have to bang and turn, bang and turn... I actually put some nice size dings in the old rotor. Not ideal, but knowing it is going to be replaced one way or another, I didn't worry too much about it. My XUV has like 115K miles on it. I doubt these are the original rotors, but they look like they have been on there a while!

Because I usually do my own brakes (saves $$), I don't mind replacing the rotors more often than probably needed. On my wifes Saturn Ion, the rotors are cheap enough that it is almost more cost effective to replace them rather than have them turned!

Thanks for the suggestion though. I have come to the realization that this one has me beat! :bonk:
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_lt
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Well, I tried the bolt method last night. Got the right size bolt into the holes and started to twist it in. There was some rust build up inside the bolt hole and after going in about 1/4", the bolt stopped turning. I actually applied so much force, that the rusted threads broke off...

I have finally given up. I gave it a good effort and tried everything in my power to get it off, but this one is a job for a shop. I called around to get some price estimates and labor alone is going to run about $120...

Sometimes you win, sometimes you don't. At least I tried, right?

So they didnt even make it to the hub ?

But if they did ,You were supposed to keep turning to put a little force on the wrench at the same time hit the rotor with a hammer It usually works off a little at each blow But mine striped too ... Is it a 2 pound hammer? or big BFH ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Nope, didn't make it to the hub. I was using a "regular" household claw hammer. Probably not the best, but it was what I had... Oh, BTW, swearing at it didn't help either...:hissy:
 

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I was using a "regular" household claw hammer.
Please say you had safety goggles or glasses. :worried: I'd never admit to whipping out such a small tool in public :eek:.....but those sorts of hammers are also not rated for whacking large bits of metal. And the rotor could also chip and you could lose an eye. :sadcry:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Safety First

Hey, you use what you got, right? I was wearing safety glasses and leather gloves.

You sure you can't just swear more to make up from a larger hammer?...
 

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Hey, you use what you got, right? I was wearing safety glasses and leather gloves.

You sure you can't just swear more to make up from a larger hammer?...

With a hammer like that your just making pinging sounds. Probably wear your arm out before it comes off.
You need a hammer that will do the work, not you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
1 more try...

Ok, so what type of hammer should I buy to smack the rotor loose? If I can buy one locally (pepboys, autozone, rural king) I will give it one more go!
 

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2002 gmc envoy_slt
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I agree, go with a larger hammer and just keep "coaxing" it off. :thumbsup:

I know you said you removed everything from around the rotor, but did that include the pair of retaining O rings that hold the rotor into the hub? I have seen a lot of people that have not noticed those and neglected to remove them.

Edit: I got beat to the question, and he even through in a pretty picture. :tiphat
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yup, I pulled those little clip things off (how important are they really as I ended up breaking them when removing them). I removed the 2 bolts that hold the caliper on and the 2 bolts that hold the "cradle" (I am not sure the technical term for the part that the caliper sits in). I didn't see anything else that really looked like it held the rotor in place. There are 3 more bolts behind the rotor, but it looks like those have more to do with the dust/heat sheild thing, so I left them alone. I think it is just me versus years of rust, and the rust is whipping my rear!
 

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The three bolts on the rear are for the wheel hub itself. Since you are 2 wheel drive, it may be easier for you to remove those and pull the rotor while still attached to the hub. then it will may easier to separate the rotor from the hub. Good Luck.
 

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The circular clips are for the assembly line's convenience only. All of us discard them. Even more important if you have aftermarket rims or wheel spacers without cast-in recesses for the clips like the OEM rims.
 

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Nope, didn't make it to the hub. I was using a "regular" household claw hammer. Probably not the best, but it was what I had... Oh, BTW, swearing at it didn't help either...:hissy:
The rotors are only about 1/4" thick at that spot, so the bolt probably did bottom out on the hub. :m2:
 
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