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Started having problems when the battery died while sitting. I thought the accessories had accidentally been left on. Charged the battery but still wouldn’t start. I changed the ignition switch and it has ran fine for around a month now. On the way home from work yesterday The car started shutting everything down, windows wouldn’t work, lost everything on the instrument cluster, no radio, and finally I was kicked out of gear and was no longer getting power to the wheels. I pulled over, parked, and shut the car off. Felt like an ignition switch issue again so my father-in-law brought a new one again and a mega fuse just in case. Replaced them and got it started again just to figure out the alternator had gone bad. Trailered it back home and replaced the alternator. It starts and runs fine but still won’t go into gear. The shift selector moves fine and the shifter cable is also fine. The car will not move in any gear it is placed in. Any ideas?
 

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Did you check to see if the shift cable is still attached to the gear selector on the transmission? The cable is a press fit onto a plastic bushing that is known to break and cause what you are describing.

By the way, Welcome to the Forum!!!

Good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Did you check to see if the shift cable is still attached to the gear selector on the transmission? The cable is a press fit onto a plastic bushing that is known to break and cause what you are describing.

By the way, Welcome to the Forum!!!

Good Luck!
yes, the cable is working fine. It is connected to the transmission and working as it should
 

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OK. Thanks. We actually have a transmission guru on here (Ravalli Surfer). I'll drop him a note and ask him to chime in.

In the meantime, please post year/make/mileage and any and all OBDII codes.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks, I appreciate it. It’s a 2004 GMC Envoy XL SLT. I believe around 160k (cluster needs to be replaced). No codes
 

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Thanks. Which engine - 4.2L I6 or 5.3L V8?
 

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Thanks. I forgot to ask when I requested the other information.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
No worries. I didn’t think about it either. I just spoke with a friend who used to run a transmission shop who is of the opinion that something is stripped in the transmission. I find it hard to believe that it coincidentally went at the same time all this happened but who knows I guess
 

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Hopefully Ravalli Surfer will be able to shed some light on the matter for you. As I mentioned earlier he is a transmission guru. He owned a transmission shop and rebuilt many a transmission for many years before retiring. Plus, he's also a great diagnostician. We are lucky to have him and the other current and retired pros who hang out here as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I was debating maybe trying the solenoids/pressure switch but my buddy seemed pretty convinced that all electronics aside with no movement in any gear that something was stripped and the transmission would need to be replaced. It still seems weird to have happened at the same time as my alternator going out / battery dying. I don’t know what to do, really don’t know how much money I’ll be willing to put into it and if it’s even worth it at that point
 

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The question of "worth it" is something only you can answer. How much does the vehicle mean to you? Is it in good condition otherwise or is it one breakdown from the scrap yard? How much to fix it versus how much to replace it? I have an '04 Trailblazer EXT that's in really good shape. I plan to do some work to it this spring and summer that, while it may not be 'worth' it is something that I want to do because I want to. Plus it's a bit of a hobby for me.
So that's a question only you can answer.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The question of "worth it" is something only you can answer. How much does the vehicle mean to you? Is it in good condition otherwise or is it one breakdown from the scrap yard? How much to fix it versus how much to replace it? I have an '04 Trailblazer EXT that's in really good shape. I plan to do some work to it this spring and summer that, while it may not be 'worth' it is something that I want to do because I want to. Plus it's a bit of a hobby for me.
So that's a question only you can answer.
Clear on that... thanks
 

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OK --- been a little under the weather and shouldda checked in before this ---

Anyway --- BEFORE anyone starts ripping into the transmission - (and you say this "budy" runs a transmission shop?) take a pressure test at the pump test port - right about under your heel at the point where the transmission swells out to become a bellhousing.

It's a small - 1/8th inch NPT thread and you just install the gauge and start the engine. no need to go through any gears - it has to generate pressure at idle in park.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
OK --- been a little under the weather and shouldda checked in before this ---

Anyway --- BEFORE anyone starts ripping into the transmission - (and you say this "budy" runs a transmission shop?) take a pressure test at the pump test port - right about under your heel at the point where the transmission swells out to become a bellhousing.

It's a small - 1/8th inch NPT thread and you just install the gauge and start the engine. no need to go through any gears - it has to generate pressure at idle in park.
I was pretty skeptical but yea he built transmissions for years and then bought the AAMCO shop he was working in when the owner decided to close. He has since closed as well but I still hoped to get some good advice from him.

I really appreciate the feedback. I will check the pressure there. Can you send me a link or something to show me what kind of gauge I would need to do that?
 

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This is a Harbor Fright system ... Engine and Transmission Oil Pressure Test Kit

While your buddy has your vehicle on a rack, make sure he listens to it running first. Ears ... er: trained ears can hear a lot of problems before any judgment is passed.
Check for driveshafts --- are they 1) there? 2) attached? 3) not freewheeling?​
If at least the rear driveshaft is there and won't spin with the rear wheels on the ground (parking brake set) ....​
...... then proceed to the next step .....​

CONFIRM that the transfer case is PHYSICALLY (not necessarily indicated by lights on the dash) ..... at least anywhere but NEUTRAL .... which, coincidentally is electronically controlled ... remembering that you were having alternator-electrical problems FIRST.
Run with this analysis until you are convinced everything up to this point is serviceable....​
ONCE it's confirmed the transfer case is OK, proceed to the next gruesome possibility...... the transmission.

Any time a catastrophic transmission failure happens, and unless you hear seriously sinister sounds or see ATF blowing out of the unit, start with basic tests.

The front pump is capable of a quiet death as is the input shaft. Neither give a warning bell and can coincidentally self destruct when your attention is on a different situation.

Once you establish whether you have pressure or not, then either drop the pan to see if you've got a shredded metal collection or black clutches lying in the pan ... or the pan has just a smidgen of corruption (this means less than liquified dust or slight shiny metal flakes in the pan).

If you see chunks of metal, pikes of black ground clutch or ANY BRIGHT PLASTIC PIECES in the pan .... pull the unit for a bench job.
Ditto if you see any remnants of ANY washers .... no matter what they're made of ... in the pan.​
Needle bearings, broken or otherwise mean death.​
Even if the filter is "just plugged up" the unit is talking to you now. The material sufficient to plug the filter came from things that should be where they were (like clutches, sprags, pinions, bushings), not where they are now (in the filter).
 

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Started having problems when the battery died while sitting. I thought the accessories had accidentally been left on. Charged the battery but still wouldn’t start. I changed the ignition switch and it has ran fine for around a month now. On the way home from work yesterday The car started shutting everything down, windows wouldn’t work, lost everything on the instrument cluster, no radio, and finally I was kicked out of gear and was no longer getting power to the wheels. I pulled over, parked, and shut the car off. Felt like an ignition switch issue again so my father-in-law brought a new one again and a mega fuse just in case. Replaced them and got it started again just to figure out the alternator had gone bad. Trailered it back home and replaced the alternator. It starts and runs fine but still won’t go into gear. The shift selector moves fine and the shifter cable is also fine. The car will not move in any gear it is placed in. Any ideas?
 

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Started having problems when the battery died while sitting. I thought the accessories had accidentally been left on. Charged the battery but still wouldn’t start. I changed the ignition switch and it has ran fine for around a month now. On the way home from work yesterday The car started shutting everything down, windows wouldn’t work, lost everything on the instrument cluster, no radio, and finally I was kicked out of gear and was no longer getting power to the wheels. I pulled over, parked, and shut the car off. Felt like an ignition switch issue again so my father-in-law brought a new one again and a mega fuse just in case. Replaced them and got it started again just to figure out the alternator had gone bad. Trailered it back home and replaced the alternator. It starts and runs fine but still won’t go into gear. The shift selector moves fine and the shifter cable is also fine. The car will not move in any gear it is placed in. Any ideas?
Last month was happened to me, tb 05 not move (shifting gear working good)
Replace the transmission selenoid (2 pcs) and replace the oil as well.
I hope it will solve your problem
 
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