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2003 chevy trailblazer_ltz
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My North Face has them stock & to be honest with you, I had it a year & didn't know I had them....but boy did I have fun shooting unsuspecting friends when I asked them to see if my headlights were working! hahaha...best hing...it does it once...then again. Only down side.....The cover thing that goes over it to hide it in the grill shot off on one side while I was driving or someplace & it was like 75$ for a new cover, unpainted & that was with my friend getting it with his dealer discount. Luckily I had a friend that paintes & painted it for me, the right color of white (not that there are sooo many whites...lol..) B/c the dealer wanted like 50$ to paint a little 1.5x1.5 inches. CRAZY!!! But I mean for real how many times do you use the headlight washers? Maybe on the trails?! I forget they are there....
 

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2005 gmc envoy_slt
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I have headlight washers installed on my 05 Envoy, the system comprises a separate pump fixed on the washers reservoir, an activation switch over the front fog light switch, a wire goes back to the BCM and there is a relay in the underhood fusebox.
 

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2005 chevy trailblazer_lt_ext
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I have headlight washers installed on my 05 Envoy, the system comprises a separate pump fixed on the washers reservoir, an activation switch over the front fog light switch, a wire goes back to the BCM and there is a relay in the underhood fusebox.
good to know. i thought they just came on when u washed ur windows. looks like ill be buying a 3rd gm washer fluid pump to make this work (the other two are for the front and rear washer jets) and another relay. i wonder how much the stock switch panel with the extra washer button would be????? hmmmm
 

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2004 gmc
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For the benefit of future searchers, the RPO code for the headlamp washer system is CE4.

The headlight switch to support that option is GM #15085699 (ACDelco #D155G)

oehq.com wants $73, rockauto.com $72, parts4chevys.com $82. I don't see any on Ebay right now, but I got mine there a couple of years ago for $15.

You also need the grill surround with nozzles, which was never designed for the trailblazer. That would be a fabrication job.
 

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2005 chevy trailblazer_lt_ext
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
For the benefit of future searchers, the RPO code for the headlamp washer system is CE4.

The headlight switch to support that option is GM #15085699 (ACDelco #D155G)

oehq.com wants $73, rockauto.com $72, parts4chevys.com $82. I don't see any on Ebay right now, but I got mine there a couple of years ago for $15.

You also need the grill surround with nozzles, which was never designed for the trailblazer. That would be a fabrication job.

awesome, thank you for the part #s that will make things much easier. do you have the part # of the nozzels? i was just gona mount them on a custom bumper so fabrication was expected.
 

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2009 gmc envoy_slt
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I'm trying to add headlamp washers to my 09 Envoy and having a problem and wonder if anyone could provide some suggestions. I didn't add a 3rd washer pump and dash switch but just figured I'd tie into the rear washer pump discharge - so whenever I washed my rear window I'd wash the headlamps too. I figured muck on the rear window probably = muck on the headlamps too and I do't use the rear washer much anyway so I wouldn't be wasting much waher fluid. I bought some nozzles at Crappy Tire for $10, some washer hose and a plastic T fitting and everything worked great (keep reading).

I mounted the nozzles where they are on the Denali - midpoint on the grill bezzle so they sprayed out onto the lights. Great I thought. I filled up the reservoir, sprayed and felt smug. Then the next morning I saw washer fluid all over the garage floor and the reservoir was only 1/2 full. What happened was the washer fluid siphoned out through the pump through the new headlamp spray nozzles until the fluid level in reservoir was at the same height as the nozzles. I thought - OK I'll get a check valve from the local fish store which would have a bit of back pressure on the system and have enough resistance to stop the siphoning. I thought the pump should put out enough pressure to push through the check valve. Well it doesn't - but the good news was siphoning did stop.

So my options are to remount the headlamp spray nozzles higher up the bezzel (about 4") which would stop the siphoning to probably 3/4 full from 1/2 full and leave me with 2 3/8" holes to fill in my bezzle. But then I couldn't fill up the washer reservoir all the way.

Anyone got any other solutions/ideas?

This problem makes me wonder about what the factory system uses to stop siphoning as the nozzles are also below the reservoir. The windshield and rear washer is fine because they are above the reservoir. I can add another pump/switch butI'd have the same problem - unless the pump has an anti siphoning system in it.
 

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2004 gmc envoy_slt
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I'm trying to add headlamp washers to my 09 Envoy and having a problem and wonder if anyone could provide some suggestions. I didn't add a 3rd washer pump and dash switch but just figured I'd tie into the rear washer pump discharge - so whenever I washed my rear window I'd wash the headlamps too. I figured muck on the rear window probably = muck on the headlamps too and I do't use the rear washer much anyway so I wouldn't be wasting much waher fluid. I bought some nozzles at Crappy Tire for $10, some washer hose and a plastic T fitting and everything worked great (keep reading).

I mounted the nozzles where they are on the Denali - midpoint on the grill bezzle so they sprayed out onto the lights. Great I thought. I filled up the reservoir, sprayed and felt smug. Then the next morning I saw washer fluid all over the garage floor and the reservoir was only 1/2 full. What happened was the washer fluid siphoned out through the pump through the new headlamp spray nozzles until the fluid level in reservoir was at the same height as the nozzles. I thought - OK I'll get a check valve from the local fish store which would have a bit of back pressure on the system and have enough resistance to stop the siphoning. I thought the pump should put out enough pressure to push through the check valve. Well it doesn't - but the good news was siphoning did stop.

So my options are to remount the headlamp spray nozzles higher up the bezzel (about 4") which would stop the siphoning to probably 3/4 full from 1/2 full and leave me with 2 3/8" holes to fill in my bezzle. But then I couldn't fill up the washer reservoir all the way.

Anyone got any other solutions/ideas?

This problem makes me wonder about what the factory system uses to stop siphoning as the nozzles are also below the reservoir. The windshield and rear washer is fine because they are above the reservoir. I can add another pump/switch but I'd have the same problem - unless the pump has an anti siphoning system in it.
Well if the system doesn't have enough pressure to push through the nozzles with a check valve in-line, then you'll probably need another pump. I'm sure the pump that operates the rear washer is built with only enough pressure to rinse that one window. Adding another tube in-line with that pump decreases the pressure at both ends if they run simultaneously.
 

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2009 gmc envoy_slt
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Good suggestion - so I tried it. But it didn't work. After installing the second pump in series and running the 2 pumps, I still didn't get any spray out the front headlamp nozzles. Take out the Check Valve and voila - good spray but still had the siphon effect if the reservoir was over half full. Then I added some hose so I could see the CV when I pushed the button in the cab and it was activating - (it is clear and I can see the internal spring move) so I surmize there is something about this CV at won't let liquids through although I can't figure it out.

So next solution was a solenoid valve in the Headlamp nozzle line - pump off= solenoid valve closed - perfect solution I thought. I went to a wrecker and got a normally closed valve from an old Ford F150 (doomed to failure as how could a Ford part work in a GMC!!). Got this wired up and worked except the washer fluid still siphoned out the nozzles so although this sounded like a good solution it didn't work either. There must be something about the density or viscosity of the washer fluid that caused it to leak out the solenoid valve or it's not designed to work with liquid - I think it came off a vacuum line. When I put pressure on it - it was tight when deenergized; and good flow when energized. Another part for the parts drawer.

Don't know why this is so much trouble. GM must us a non siphoning pump in the headlamp washer. I went to the GM dealer to ask to see a schematic and P/Ns (as shown by Roadie above). It looks like a simple system - and the GM parts are outrageously expensive. Nozzles are $71 each, the pump is $123, even the hose is expensive.
Next I try will be to find a headlamp washer pump at the wrecker and see how this works although headlamp washers are a newer idea and I didn't see many at the wrecker last time.
(Although this monkeying around is kinda fun - it would be nice if it worked eventually) Oh yeah - during all this I somehow blew the 20A fuse for the rear washer pump. It is not marked in the manual or on the map under the fuse/relay box. It is close to fuse #7 so I called it 7A and marked up my book.)
 

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Thanks for the link. There isn't any description of this item saying it is a 'special' pump other than it is listed as a headlamp washer pump - nor do they list anything for my 2009 Envoy - only up to 2005. Do you have any specs or details for this pump? Being in Canada, they'll charge me and extra $25 for shipping so I want to be sure it is the one that will do the job.
Thanks for your help.
 

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2003 gmc envoy_slt
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Thanks for the link. There isn't any description of this item saying it is a 'special' pump other than it is listed as a headlamp washer pump - nor do they list anything for my 2009 Envoy - only up to 2005. Do you have any specs or details for this pump? Being in Canada, they'll charge me and extra $25 for shipping so I want to be sure it is the one that will do the job.
Thanks for your help.
Sorry, I don't know when or if the sprayer was discontinued.

I did just remember, when I removed my grille, I had to clamp off the washer supply hose, to keep the fluid from running out.

There may be an in-line check valve.
 

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So that would imply that the pump is not 'special' or contain an anti siphon system, but that a check valve is used somewhere on the grill. Perhaps the nozzles have an integrated CV. That makes sense sine the ones from GM are $70 each - not like the $10 ones from the local autoparts store. Although if I look at schematic posted by Roadie - part #6 - there is something where the hoses "T" together that could contain a CV. I'll check with GM to see the price for that assembly.
Thanks for the info - that helps alot.
 

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This may be over simplified and I may be missing something here, but why couldn't you just run extra tube so that it goes from the tank/pump, then ABOVE tank level before it drops below tank level to get to the nozzles.

Wouldn't that stop the siphoning? There should be somewhere under the hood or passenger fender where you could hide the extra tube(s).
 

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I understand your question/potential solution and already did running the hose up over the top of the reservoir just in case - but that IS the siphoning effect where you can drain up over the height of the fluid level.
Say you have a bucket of water 3/4 full and run a hose into the bucket say to the bottom and over the top then down below the bucket, once you start the siphon the bucket will drain. If the discharge end is half way down the bucket - the bucket will drain to half full - and that was I believe what you suggested (and that is the problem I'm having).

I think I found the problem with the check valve though. I tried blowing on the upstream part of the Check Valve (pump side) really hard and what happened is that the pressure overcame the spring force and pushed the rubber stopper in the CV into the discharge side of the CV thereby stopping all flow in that direction. So I took the CV apart and put a pin inside to prevent the rubber part from going completely to the other end. Now when I blow hard on the CV - it always passes. Will try this tonight and post happiness (I hope).
Brian
 

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Success finally. Hoever the mod with the check valve wasn't a complete fix. It did work but the spring pushing the stopper against the end (making it a spring loaded CV) jsut wasn't stong enough to keep the nozzles from dripping. I was getting a drip out of the nozzle hose at a rate of 1 drip ever 5 seconds - not good enough. So I thought Id' try to re-install the solenoid valve in line with the CV. That worked but I had to install the valve 'backwards'. There was an arrow on the valve body showing direction of flow but with the valve closed, and the pump on, washer fluid sprayed out. So I reversed it and it worked.
Thank God this is over - but it does work!
Summary of my installation:
1) Buy 2 nozzles and about 6 feet of washer hose from a local parts store. You will also need a 12 VDC solenoid - I got mine from a junk yard from a 97 Ford 150. I was near the Carb/Throttle body. also clip off the electrical connector when getting the Solenoid Valve. Also - you will need a spring loaded Check Valve. I got mine from a local aquarium shop. It may need to be modified (see previous posting),
2) Remove Grill and headlight assembly
3) Remove the pump discharge hose from the Rear Washer pump. It is tricky - you may end up pulling the pump out of the reservoir and thereby draining the reservoir in the process,
4) Install about 12" of washer hoze from the pump discharge to a "T" fitting (this excess hose allows easy access if you have to adjust things or try different things,
5) Connect one end of the "T" to to Rear Washer line with another 12" of hose,
6) Install a 12VDC solenoid valve wired in parallel with the rrear washer pump power supply wires,
7) Connect the "T" in #5 to the Solenoid Valve - use another 12" of hose. From the Solenoid valve add another 12-15 inches of hose through the front to the grill area,
6) Install 2 spray nozzles about 1/2 way up the Front Grill Bezzel and connect with hose and hose "T" fitting. I glued the hose along the front grill to hold in place,
7) Install a Check Valve in the line connecting the Solenoid Valve to the hose connecting the spray nozzles.
With luck this will work and not dribble.
Brian
 

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2002 chevy trailblazer_lt
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Just a little piece of history. Headlight washers/wipers came standard on Saab cars from 1970 and by model year 1974 it was mandatory on all cars sold in Sweden. This headlight washer system then became the most common reason for cars to fail the annual safety inspection. Once a good idea but very little R&D. Fast forward to 1994. European Union found the mandatory headlight washer system an obstacle to free circulation of cars within the Union. The headlight cleaning system became optional equpment from 1995. The high pressure washer system without wipers, developed by Hella (and others) from the mid 1980's has since then been more reliable and a lot cheaper for the car manufacturers. One detail of the law from 1974-94 was that the washer fluid tank had to be big enough to use the windshield & headlight wash 100 times without running out of washer fluid. With the high pressure system, most cars had to use tanks to carry more than 2 US-gallon.
 

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2003 chevy
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Headlight washers

Aren't these available for the TB as part of the cross bar that goes across the headlights? Pretty sure the North Face editions had them.
Headlight washers are standard on the North Face. I just purchased an '03 and they are on the cross bar under the headlights. I'm working on trying to get them to work now. Along with a few other things.
 
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