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2004 gmc envoy_sle_xuv
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15 Posts
Thanks for this post - was very helpful. Had a challenge with #1 and wanted to share that I was able to get some additional clearance by removing the top cover of the wire channel. Takes a bit of prying with a small screwdriver and there are quite a few tabs to undo, but it does come off. I then had enough clearance to get a 10mm socket on to remove the coil pack.
I tried this on my '04 XUV and ended up snapping :eek: one of the clips that holds the plastic channel to the engine. Does anyone know what this part is called and how I can find a replacement? It looks like a generic retainer clip could work but I figured someone here might have already made this repair. Thanks!
 

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2005 chevy trailblazer_ls
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8 Posts
...
does everyone follow the torque specs on the plugs? 13 ft lbs?...
I placed anti-seize on the new plugs and used a torque wrench (noob I know).
Nothing wrong with using a torque wrench. Only way to ensure you get things back in spec.
Mageler said:
Or use a trustworthy torque wrench set to 13 ft/lbs or 156 inch/pounds.

Was looking for a tq value for my plug change this afternoon and would like to thank the O.P. for their work on this thread!!

Being a gearhead for longer than many of you have been alive, I would like to stress how important it is to put anti-seize on the threads, AND TORQUE THEM DOWN TO THE CORRECT 13 FT/LBS!!!
 

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2005 chevy trailblazer_ls
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8 Posts
I picked up an '05 Trailblazer about a month ago for a winter vehicle so I could let my '15 Camaro hibernate in the barn for the winter.
For having 189K miles, it seems to be in fairly good shape, but only getting about 14-16 mpg on rural roads here in Michigan, so I thought I'd change the plugs and clean out the throttle body this afternoon.

Not sure if they were the original plugs or not (they were the old # 41-981's), but as you can see, there was not much left of the electrodes. They were all very similar to the one in the pic.



I know this is a plug thread, (no pun intended), but had to post a couple pics of my throttle body. It took some scrubbing with some t.b. cleaner and an old tooth brush, but I got it fairly clean before re-installing. After posting this, looks like I may head over to Ebay and pick up a cheap oil catch can and give one a try on the valve cover to intake resonator line.
I had removed the - battery connection before I started the plug change, so the ecu would re-learn the stuff. Started right up and seems to have much better throttle response. We are getting an early snow storm here and roads are terrible so I couldn't get on it much, but it does seem to have made quite an improvement.
Next task will be to change the thermostat. The gauge never gets up to the mark that is before 210. Going to put in mechanical water temp and oil pressure gauge also.



 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_lt_ext
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15 Posts
Thinking of doing this soon. At 85,000 miles and probably time for it. Thanksfor the handy right up.
 

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2003 chevy trailblazer_ltz
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217 Posts
I should have sprayed a little PB Blaster in there to unfreeze the metal before removing them.
Pointless. The taper of the plug seat is a gas-tight seal. The penetrating oil cannot get past the taper, therefore it CANNOT do any good.
I put anti-seize (high temperature, designed for sparkplugs) on the top 1/4 of the threads when I installed the new plugs.
Next time, put it on the bottom half (or more), plus the taper of the plug, so that the first threads get lubricated, too. As the plug screws in, the excess anti-seize tends to move "up" the threads, so the whole plug is coated.
 

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2006 chevy trailblazer_ls
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12 Posts
The taper of a plug is an important aspect to point out to people who haven't changed out plugs before. They make a good job go bad if the mechanic does something wrong there.

Speaking from experience.
 

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2005 chevy trailblazer_lt
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5 Posts
Thanks

I have replace the original spark plugs with the new part number from ACDELCO.

Now everything running smooth.

Thanks for the info.
 
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