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2002 chevy trailblazer_lt
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
just wanted to let everyone know that my quest has been achieved, please note that this is also with NO TUNE AT ALL STOCK PCM

My Tranny Upgrades are as follows

Corvette Servo
.490 Boost Valve
Shiftkit Hardened Accumulator Springs
Small Pin Metal 1-2 Accumulator Piston

PCM tuning is absolutely stock, no PCM values are tweaked whatsoever

Today i installed my boost valve and hardened springs and i got my tires to audibly chirp on the 1-2 shift on bone dry pavement, and these are with new tires with buttloads of tread on them, the passenger in my car heard it also so i know i wasnt hearing things, it audibly chirped on the gear change

and then in the RAIN it actually legitimately tried to kick out to the side through the 1-2 and on the 2-3 obviously it dosnt chirp the tires because your going 80 mph but it kicks you back in your seat like crazy

That being said, i cant wait to get my PCM tuned and delete all torque management, zero out shift times and raise line pressures
 

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2007 chevy trailblazer_ls
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Joe92T, THANK YOU for letting me know what I need to do to my trans!!! I allready have the vette servo, next will be the .490 boost valve. As for the other two items I believe that the valve body has to be dropped. Is this correct? If so how many check balls do I have to worry about? Is the metal 1-2 accumulator piston just for relieabality? Thanks in advance!
Jay:hail:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Joe92T, THANK YOU for letting me know what I need to do to my trans!!! I allready have the vette servo, next will be the .490 boost valve. As for the other two items I believe that the valve body has to be dropped. Is this correct? If so how many check balls do I have to worry about? Is the metal 1-2 accumulator piston just for relieabality? Thanks in advance!
Jay:hail:

The valve body does NOT need to be dropped, its a 15 minute deal for everything once the pans dropped, its redicilously easy the vette servo install was 50x harder then this was. No check balls or anything like that, its cake its all right there in your face once the pan is dropped.

the 1-2 piston is for reliability moreso then anything else

Not only is the upshifts harder now, but ANY shifting is firmer now, if you floor it and it kicks down a gear or two it does it faster then you could snap your fingers and throws you in your seat, WAAAAYYYY faster reaction times, even putting it in gear selector D to like 2 is instantaneous now in less then a quarter second itd seem

Still havnt touched the tuning, considering what it does now with just hardpart upgrades im scared to see what it will do with maxed out shift tuning lol
 

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2005 chevy trailblazer_ls
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wow :eek: thats quite an achievement...yu actually gettin it all to the pavement :drool

ill say it...im jelous :worried:

good work though it obv paid off :tiphat
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah it didnt take that many parts to make it happen either, the first time it did it in the rain i got scared as hell because i was going around a slight bend in the road and right thru the shift the rear end tried to kick out to the side and i let off immediately and had to correct it
 

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Yeah it didnt take that many parts to make it happen either, the first time it did it in the rain i got scared as hell because i was going around a slight bend in the road and right thru the shift the rear end tried to kick out to the side and i let off immediately and had to correct it
Ah! The joys of actually having (getting) to DRIVE a vehicle instead of letting it drive us. :woot:

I grew up with muscle cars, and have owned a number of bad rides. I miss being able to get stuff all sideways whenver I press the loud pedal. I don't expect too much for an I-6 Trailblazer, but a little bit would be good, which is why I'm also on the quest for just a tad more. I know, I know, get an SS, but right now the money and the every day mileage penalty is just not in the cards for me. We're on a quest to be debt free and are almost there. So, I fix the TB I have. :yes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ah! The joys of actually having (getting) to DRIVE a vehicle instead of letting it drive us. :woot:

I grew up with muscle cars, and have owned a number of bad rides. I miss being able to get stuff all sideways whenver I press the loud pedal. I don't expect too much for an I-6 Trailblazer, but a little bit would be good, which is why I'm also on the quest for just a tad more. I know, I know, get an SS, but right now the money and the every day mileage penalty is just not in the cards for me. We're on a quest to be debt free and are almost there. So, I fix the TB I have. :yes:
lol yeah its nice mang, during shifts my serp belt slips and squeaks for a split second, thats when you know your doing a positive shift lol
 

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2007 chevy trailblazer_ls
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lol yeah its nice mang, during shifts my serp belt slips and squeaks for a split second, thats when you know your doing a positive shift lol
That's also how you know you're being incredibly hard on the rotating assembly... Didn't need those main bearings, rods, pistons, camchain, or cam sprockets anyway, right?

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
That's also how you know you're being incredibly hard on the rotating assembly... Didn't need those main bearings, rods, pistons, camchain, or cam sprockets anyway, right?

Mike
yeah cause they are really prone to failure :rolleyes: My impala did the same thing when i had the shiftkit in it and i ran it like that for 40+K miles with no problems, i dont plan to keep the vehicle for 200K+ and when my loans paid up im probobly going to get something different so i dont mind if it dosnt last a million miles because itll be long out of my hands by then
 

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Joe92T where did you get the springs? How much ? If I hear you correctly, the accum springs can be accesed without dropping the valve body. Count me in! I have experence with shift kits for older transmissions but not the 4l60e. Putting in the boost valveshould be no big deal but I would like some instructions for the springs &pistion . Did the parts come with instructions? Thanks again Jay
:hail:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Everything I have

Accumulator Piston


http://www.oregonperformancetransmi...&Product_Code=NTP-K51782E&Category_Code=4L60E

.490 Boost Valve

http://www.oregonperformancetransmi...roduct_Code=SNX-77898E-3K&Category_Code=4L60E

Corvette Servo

http://www.oregonperformancetransmi...hant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_code=NTP-K51828C

Filter and Gasket Kit

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FILT...goryZ33727QQihZ008QQitemZ7938612622QQtcZphoto

Hardened Accumulator Spring

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/700R...goryZ33727QQihZ007QQitemZ8007016592QQtcZphoto

Youll also need to buy 6 Quarts of Tranny fluid, it "calls" for 5 quarts but everytime ive done it, its been around 5 and a half quarts, so just pick up 6 quarts of Dex 6 Fluid and youll be all set, they sell it @ walmart for $3.73 a quart and yes the items come with instructions
 

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Glad to hear you have it working how you want.

You're still going to have sloppy shifts until you get your tune, TM really sucks as it pulls so much timing after a shift. Even if your shift is fast you still lose a lot of time as the timing ramps back in after a shift. Im pretty sure you're going to have 0 control over your rear end once you get it tuned, just letting you know. Rain for me was scary enough with my old tires, so happy I was finally able to burn those Toyo Open Country A/Ts into the ground and get some real tires that actually grip in the rain and snow.

I still think you might have some premature part failures, but go for it.:m2:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Glad to hear you have it working how you want.

You're still going to have sloppy shifts until you get your tune, TM really sucks as it pulls so much timing after a shift. Even if your shift is fast you still lose a lot of time as the timing ramps back in after a shift. Im pretty sure you're going to have 0 control over your rear end once you get it tuned, just letting you know. Rain for me was scary enough with my old tires, so happy I was finally able to burn those Toyo Open Country A/Ts into the ground and get some real tires that actually grip in the rain and snow.

I still think you might have some premature part failures, but go for it.:m2:
You ever had that happen to you where the rear end tries to kick out if your going around a slight bend or something like that during a shift? If you have im pretty sure you know what im talking about, its definately scary!

Im looking to get it tuned by a local member with HPT within the month so ill check back in after that happens and see how it goes lol
 

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yeah cause they are really prone to failure :rolleyes: My impala did the same thing when i had the shiftkit in it and i ran it like that for 40+K miles with no problems, i dont plan to keep the vehicle for 200K+ and when my loans paid up im probobly going to get something different so i dont mind if it dosnt last a million miles because itll be long out of my hands by then
Your Impala was either an LT1, 3400, 3800, or S/C 3800, (depending on what year, given the amount of miles, I'm guessing not a new body style) right?? None of those engines have OHC, or the long cam chain associated with overhead cams... Everything from the factory is set up in such a way as to either get better emissions, better fuel mileage, or longer drivetrain life. Anything you change from those settings decreases one or more of the above. It's all a cost (part wear/cost, fuel mileage, etc) vs. benefit thing, and if you're alright with the shorter engine and transmission/drivetrain life, then it's worth it. It sounds like you'll pass it off before things start to grenade anyway (unless you tow a lot of heavy stuff), but talking about the "koolzness" of it without at least acknowledging the shortened life of the drivetrain seems sort of careless to me (especially to the people reading the koolzness of chirping tires, thinking of or in the process of doing it themselves, not knowing that there are ramifications in the long term).

Mike
 

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I'd love to do something like this, but I'm afraid it would bite me in the ass in the winter. Had my Durango do that to me and it cost me a couple days in a rental car while the front end (radiator core, fenders, bumper; basically all but the hood) was being replaced. Damn thing...
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
as i said earlier i doubt it will cause any premature engine failure in the lifespan that im involved with the truck, and i also doubt im worried about getting bad gas milage when my foots all the way to the floor on the gas pedal, if anything ill get better gas milage once torque management is fully deleted because it runs pig rich during a shift in order to try and kill off power, so taking that out of the equation will make it run leaner and less fuel will be used, just like taking the CAT off your vehicle will more then likely help gas milage by making the motor run with higher efficiency
 

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You ever had that happen to you where the rear end tries to kick out if your going around a slight bend or something like that during a shift? If you have im pretty sure you know what im talking about, its definately scary!

Im looking to get it tuned by a local member with HPT within the month so ill check back in after that happens and see how it goes lol
My 02 was so bad with those tires in order to drive in the rain I would flash a different tune in with TM back in and some time added to the shift times (like 50% stock) and run in A4WD to keep the rear end in check. Otherwise Id lose control of it frequently, not that fun. With my new tires they do break free if theres a little water on the ground but they are a waaaay better tire. Toyo should get their act together, the Proxies ST and Proxies 4 tires are sweet and have great traction but the Open Country A/Ts suck balls. Open Country H/Ts are pretty good though, just the A/Ts that suck.

That member know how to tune it right? Hopefully, these things run super rich all the time, Ive got scans showing I needed to pull fuel all around on the stock tune.
 

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as i said earlier i doubt it will cause any premature engine failure in the lifespan that im involved with the truck, and i also doubt im worried about getting bad gas milage when my foots all the way to the floor on the gas pedal, if anything ill get better gas milage once torque management is fully deleted because it runs pig rich during a shift in order to try and kill off power, so taking that out of the equation will make it run leaner and less fuel will be used, just like taking the CAT off your vehicle will more then likely help gas milage by making the motor run with higher efficiency
Mileage doesn't have anything to do with this conversation. re-read my post. I was saying that there are basically 3 reasons (4 if you count cost/bean counters) that things are the way they are from the factory, and fuel mileage was one of them. I did not say that it would kill your mileage, because it won't. I said that anything you do to stray away from factory settings will decrease "one or more" of the above, not "all" of the above.

Mike
 

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sounds like I will be busy with getting all this stuff.. plus I already have a tune so thats one less thing to worry about :woohoo::woot:
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
sounds like I will be busy with getting all this stuff.. plus I already have a tune so thats one less thing to worry about :woohoo::woot:
Do you have shift firmness level 3 ?
 
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