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2004 chevy trailblazer_ls
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Discussion Starter #1
Just ordered my new bilsteins for the front and I have some questions im sure someone can help with......

1. Does the bottom "yoke" part(curved thing connecting control arm to shock) only fit on the bottom of the new shock one way? Or shall I leave the bolt that clamps the yoke to the shock loose then bolt it back on and adjust for proper alignment of yoke??? Then tighten the S*!t out of it.

2. Does anyone know any torque specs for the front strut??(bottom of yoke to control arm, bolt that clamps yoke to shock, then the 3 bolts on top of the shock assembly.)

Also should I replace the shock upper mounts since I'll have it all apart??

Thanks guys, and I'll try to get some picts so we can get a write up on this because it seems to be a pretty popular topic of which there is no "how-to" on.
 

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2006 chevy trailblazer_lt
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3,497 Posts
1. Looks like it will be lined up with the spring...mark the relationship between the spring, upper mount & yolk with a crayon so that the allignment is lose during re-assembly.

2. Tighten the shock absorber retaining nut to 45 N·m (33 lb ft).
Tighten the shock module yoke to shock absorber pinch bolt to 70 N·m (52 lb ft).
ighten the shock module upper retaining nuts to 45 N·m (33 lb ft).
Tighten the shock module yoke to lower control arm retaining nut to 111 N·m (82 lb ft).

3. Yes...with a BDS lift kit (since you have it all apart :D)

Roadie has done a handful of write-ups (sparatic) within a few BDS install threads; you can find more info if you do a search for BDS kits, the assembly is almost the same as replacing the shock :yes:
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_ls
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Discussion Starter #3
thanks for the reply prosphoto you pretty much answered all my questions!!!!
 

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2006 chevy trailblazer_lt
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No problem...I just checked out your profile and saw that you have a good amount of mods already; do you have any pics for your gallery?

I also saw that you're looking to do an SS conversion, so I guess the lift is the wrong direction for you :undecided
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_ls
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Discussion Starter #5
Im not lifting, just replacing the stock shocks. Im keeping all the same suspension, just updating it a bit.
 

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2003 chevy trailblazer_ls
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I have a 2003 Trailblazer that I am replacing the shock/strut assembly. How does the yoke come off of the control arm???? Thanks Denis
 

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2004 gmc
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How does the yoke come off of the control arm???? Thanks Denis
With a pittman arm puller. (Run a search and you will find a picture I posted about 25 times over the years.

Other folks have used pickle forks, and whacking it on the side of the mounting part with a BFH.

It *can* (but doesn't have to be) one of the most frustrating items to get off on the entire vehicle! It's a tapered pin, so penetrating oil will NOT help usually.
 

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2006 chevy trailblazer_lt
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Yep...it's frustrating

Roadie is right....getting the yoke off IS the most frustrating part of changing shocks/struts. I see three different types if pittman arm pullers available. Can you say which one did the trick for you? It appears that the length of the tapered pin might keep some from fitting correctly. (The Advanced Auto Parts web site shows the three different styles. The conical styles looks like it has the most yoke contact to distribute the contact area (standard two or three finger pullers can't seem to get enough surface area contact to do the job!). Any recommendations? Cause I AM frustrated!
 

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2006 chevy trailblazer_lt
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If you look closely at that photo, you will see that the jaws of the puller appear to barely grab the yoke. Depending on the puller you have/buy, this may be problematic.

Also, as I recall when I tried to fit my puller in there, you need to pry to gain clearance for the jaws. It does not appear there is enough of a slot, but you can pry the slot "open" to let the puller jaws in.

When I did mine I used a pickle fork. Some have tried it and failed. The key is to have one with jaws that are just the right width, IMHO. I'll have to measure mine the next time I'm in the barn. But with my wide jaw pickle fork, all it takes is one or two good whacks with a 2 or 3lb sledge and it pops right off. Far easier and faster IMHO than fussing with the puller. YMMV.
 

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2006 chevy trailblazer_lt
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Oh Yeah....

A picture IS worth a 1000 words. Thanks. Maybe I can finally get the front shocks in now! BTW...how do I find your gallery? Can't seem to locate it through search.
 

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2004 gmc
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Galleries are available after clicking the member's name.

But in my case, not all my pics are in my gallery. I haven't updated it in years.

I usually have to hammer in my puller jaws. A third alternative is just to hammer perpendicularly to the tapered pin on the side of the yoke mount casting. That can often loosen the mount so it jumps off the pin.
 

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2008 chevy trailblazer_ls
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SNIP...

2. Tighten the shock absorber retaining nut to 45 N·m (33 lb ft).
Tighten the shock module yoke to shock absorber pinch bolt to 70 N·m (52 lb ft).
Tighten the shock module upper retaining nuts to 45 N·m (33 lb ft).
Tighten the shock module yoke to lower control arm retaining nut to 111 N·m (82 lb ft).
Called my local dealer today, it appear the torques are the same for the 2008 TB. They gave me all same values with the exception of : 32 ft lbs on shock absorber retaining nut.

One more worry down as I get ready to level and replace fronts.
 

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2002 chevy trailblazer_ltz
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Removing yoke from control arm.

After replacing front Strut Assemblies on my 2002 Trailblazer (@179,000 miles) I strongly agree with the group (the roadie, markarock, 6stringbass) this was a very frustrating & loosing experience utilizing pullers (2-jaw & 3-jaw types). Not enough leverage. As suggested in the Forum I then went the pickle fork route. Via AutoZone's loaner tool program, I obtained a Pitman Arm fork & a Ball Joint fork. The difference being only the wedge thickness / taper: Ball Joint fork is thinner. I used the Ball Joint fork first (and with a hand sledge hammer: 3-pound) to make a gap big enough to get the Pitman Arm fork in, and then finished separating the yoke-arm connection.

I think using this procedure could result in replacing each strut assembly in about 2 to 2-1/2 hours each. I think this tidbit might save headaches to someone.

Note I replaced the complete strut assembly (purchased from RockAuto) because I wanted new upper & lower mounts, and was economical and less work.

Much thanks for your help to ALL that have provided valuable contributions.
 
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