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2003 chevy trailblazer_ltz
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I'm finally gonna get to this tomorrow morning. I did find the GM seal at a local dealer so I picked one up to compare to the other seal I had. The two look totally different. Think I'll use the GM part and take the other one back.
 

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2002 chevy trailblazer_lt
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438 Posts
I'm finally gonna get to this tomorrow morning. I did find the GM seal at a local dealer so I picked one up to compare to the other seal I had. The two look totally different. Think I'll use the GM part and take the other one back.
Like I said, a lot of people have made the same mistake. Glad you found the site and this thread to know before you tore into it! :thumbsup:
 

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2002 chevy trailblazer_lt
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26 Posts
fyi i figured all of this out exept the main question

the drivers side diff seal (the one that normally leaks onto axle and slings around)
is gm#14271618. this is the one i needed, called drivers side or left hand OUTER

the one that is also the drivers side is the seal that faces the oil pan, gm# 12479302 this is the one that the store will normally try to sell you... called drivers or left hand side INNER

the timken carrier bearing that you may normally find damaged under the adjuster nut is JL69310 (outer race only, hand removable) I found this at carquest on the shelf.

still need to know a good rule of thumb for reinstalling and preloading the adjuster without all the technical mumbo jumbo. the thing was loose enough that i could unscrew it by hand, so thats my starting point for reinstallation.
The differential seal thats faces the oil pan is not gm#12479302 the correct number is gm#12471617. The reason I know is I ordered gm#12479302 and it is to small for the differential housing. It is however the correct seal for the disconnect housing. Just posting this because I couldn't find the inner seal number anywhere online.
 

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2004 gmc envoy_sle_xl
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94 Posts
Here is a completely ignorant question... I'll be attpenting this next week and wanted to know, WHERE do you check and refill the 75w-90 axle oil? Haven't seen any photos anywhere and I do not have an owners manual.

Thanks all!
 

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2003 gmc envoy_slt
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56 Posts
seal puller and seal driver kit

i used a traditional hook type seal puller to remove the driver side front diff seal quite nicely. it required some leverage in tight quarters, but is doable. the seal is so beefy and thick so it can withstand some serious pull behind the rubber square labyrinth seal.

i installed the new seal with a loaner seal driver kit (various aluminum disks and a handle). it worked great for squaring up the new seal and ensuring it was installed flush and straight. again, the confines under the chassis are tight, but you can tap it it with a small shorty handle sledge/maul hammer. there is not enough room to get a full swing, especially if the strut knuckle is in the way.

i lost and replaced about 1/4 of quart of gear oil doing this (normal), as it dripped out while working.

something to note if you are also replacing the driver side cv shaft at the same time:

after replacing the front driver side diff seal, installing the new cv shaft was difficult. the new seal was very tight and hard to push the cv shaft through, and the inner splines are hard to feel when they align and engage. many attempts to push and wiggle the new cv shaft in finally resulted in the shaft finding home and clicking into place. there is no place to tap/pound the shaft in safely, just used two hands grabbing onto the tripot housing (try not to damage the new boot).
 

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2003 gmc envoy_slt
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Here is a completely ignorant question... I'll be attpenting this next week and wanted to know, WHERE do you check and refill the 75w-90 axle oil? Haven't seen any photos anywhere and I do not have an owners manual.

Thanks all!
there is a conveniently placed access cap right next to the cv shaft opening. use an 18mm socket to access it. the cap is sealed with a reusable o-ring. fill the case up until it starts to drip out, that is the proper level.
 

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2005 chevy trailblazer_lt_ext
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Hi, my name is ds98tj
new member, first time poster
I love my 2005 EXT but I will never get rid of my 98 Tj :eek:fftopic:

So with that out of the way I need help
I am replacing my CV seal part number 46002025 and I am having a hard time finding it it is the outer seal of the diff. Is it a dealer part also
 

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2002 gmc envoy_slt
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All looks well......this is ga reat forum...indeed the gm# for the drivers side diff seal is 19257296 and goes for about $15.09 at the dealership!
 

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2004 gmc envoy_sle_xuv
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Just starting to do my research on this project. I have grinding noise coming from the passenger side. Are the procedures in this thread the same for the passenger side? Any differences I should be aware of before getting started?
 

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2003 gmc envoy_slt_xl
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Hey RBN , hope you found the passenger side thread. Different kettle of fish. You need to pull the axle and then unbolt the box that has the AWD shift in it if yours is 4WD. If there is grinding it is probably the fork in there that is broken. Good to service this from time to time any way ... good luck.
 

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2002 chevy trailblazer_ltz
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Just finished replacing the driver’s side front differential seal. This thread helped make the job easy! I’ll go through the steps I used.

Remove the tire. Remove the brake caliper and hang out of the way. Remove brake disk. Remove the 3 bolts on the back of the wheel hub, disconnect some of the clips holding the wire that comes from the hub to give it some play. Tap on the hub with big hammer to free it up, it will eventually slide out toward you.

This is the part that most people have a ton of trouble with but with the right tools and technique it’s pretty easy. I used a 5 pound slide hammer and a FWD axle puller adapter rented from Autozone. Position the axle puller adapter behind the tripot. There is very little room to get much of a swing with the slide hammer but it doesn’t take much to actually free the cv shaft from the differential. Give the slide hammer a big whack (even though it isn’t much with the very limited room for a swing). THIS ADVICE HASN’T BEEN MENTIONED IN THIS THREAD BUT IT WORKS. If it doesn’t come free rotate the cv shaft just slightly and try again. Keep doing this and when the cv shaft gets rotated in just the right position a whack will pull it out with ease! No need to mess with getting under the vehicle with a long “drift” and BFH and pounding away! Another technique is to use a pry bar positioned between the tripot and the differential case and pry it away. Give it a good solid push, if it doesn’t go, rotate the cv shaft slightly and try again. Keep doing this and once the shaft is in the right spot it will pop out. Its surprisingly easy to pop out, no need to go crazy with a hammer!

Once the shaft is free it doesn’t have enough play to be pulled out of the diff housing. Remove the bolt holding the upper ball joint to the swing arm. Tap the upper swing arm UP and off the upper ball joint. If you need to, use a chisel to separate the clamp holding onto the upper ball joint first. With the ball joint free there is enough room to pull the cv shaft out of the diff housing.

Another thing people struggle with is getting the old seal out. I bought a seal puller from Autozone for $10 and got the seal out in a few seconds, well worth the money I think.

For putting the new seal in I used a bearing and race installer rented from Autozone. It’s just a flat disk and handle to pound on which allows the seal to go in perfectly straight without damage.

$10 for a seal puller, $15 for the seal, $10 for a quart of amsoil severe gear oil, $100 in rented tools that will get fully refunded, and 3 hours of my time the job was finished!
 

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chevy trailblazer_ltz
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Front Axle/Differential

Hello all,

I purchased a 2003 TB LTZ 6cyl, I have an issue, Heard some humming in the front left, thought it was a wheel hub assembly, Was told that it was the half shaft/cv axle into the diff? How bad of an issue is this and what do i need to do to fix

Josh
 

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2002 chevy trailblazer_ltz
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Hello all,

I purchased a 2003 TB LTZ 6cyl, I have an issue, Heard some humming in the front left, thought it was a wheel hub assembly, Was told that it was the half shaft/cv axle into the diff? How bad of an issue is this and what do i need to do to fix

Josh
Read this article and do another search for replacing the half shaft. You will get more info than you know what to do with.
 

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2003 chevy trailblazer_ltz
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210 Posts
Recently replaced the differential seal for the left CV shaft--2003 TB.

Removed LF wheel/tire. Removed brake caliper and bracket, secured caliper to suspension with wire so it doesn't dangle from the hose. Removed brake rotor and set aside. Removed wire from ABS sensor on hub, unhooked wire from retainers. Remove big 36mm nut on hub retaining the outer CV joint. Popped upper and lower ball joints, but NOT the tie rod end. Pulled steering knuckle off of outer CV joint, knuckle hangs from tie rod end. CV joint did not want to slide through the splines of the hub, had to persuade it with a block of wood and Ford Wrench (BFH)

Used air hammer and long, blunt bit to knock the CV shaft out of the differential. Very easy, very quick. Pull trigger--BURRRRRP--axle shaft snap ring is released from differential.





The air hammer bits I used:


Knocked free, the CV axle is removed to the work bench where the seal and bearing surface is polished with emery cloth, and the splines on each end are checked for wear. Shaft shows very minor wear from seal lip, no wear from bearing. Roughness on bearing surface would indicate defective bearing.




The old seal was removed from the differential housing with a slide-hammer. I used a two-jaw puller to hook the seal. Took a lot of slamming to get the seal to pop out.

The seal is approximately three inches (75 mm) in (outside) diameter.


New seal--in packaging.


New and old seals. Note all the tabs except two, on backside of old seal are bent down. Tabs apparently are intended to lock bearing retainer in place.




Seal has 14 tabs. Bearing retainer has 12 gaps for tabs to fit into. I used a paint marker on the differential housing and on the seal to align a pair of tabs on the seal into two gaps in the bearing retainer. I suppose that the mis-match of 12 gaps and 14 tabs is intended to assure that no matter how the seal is positioned, two tabs will always line up with two gaps.


I lubed the seal lip with white grease, and also the OD hoping it would slide into the differential housing easier. Paint marks on seal were "erased" by the air hammer bit, but by that time I had already aligned the seal tabs to the retainer gaps.

The tabs on the seal are strong enough that they are resistant to bending over. The seal did not want to go in the last little bit. I had no alternative but to zip it into place with the very short, blunt air hammer bit. Just like the seal you removed, the replacement seal should be flush with the housing. DO NOT DAMAGE THE HOUSING if you choose to smack the seal with an air hammer! I made sure to hit the SEAL, not the housing, and I did so in a criss-cross pattern so the seal went in reasonably evenly.


Installed the CV axle, and then re-assembled the front suspension and brake caliper twice because I forgot to install the ABS wire harness into the hub the first time.

Lower ball joint torque is 81 ft/lbs
Upper ball joint torque is 32 ft/lbs
36mm nut for outer CV joint is 81 ft/lbs
Brake caliper bracket bolt torque is XX ft/lbs
Wheel lug nut torque is 100 ft/lbs
[Note: Torque specs from memory, will verify later]

Refill differential with specified synthetic lube. Clean old grease residue from the entire underbody of the vehicle, it will have blown everywhere from under-car air movement. If you don't clean the vehicle, you may not know if the replacement seal is still leaking.

Total time from lifting the vehicle to test-drive was about four hours, plus some time at the car wash to clean the grease residue. I work slow. Others can do this in much less time.

4000 miles later, replaced seal is wonderfully dry--but I have another leak on the differential so I will have to replace at least one other seal.
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_ls
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I changed this seal about 8,000 miles ago now its leaking again. Has some play in the bearing. Anyone ever have to change the bearing also?
 

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2003 chevy trailblazer_ls_ext
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Schurkey, would you happen to have anymore pics of the process of removing the CV? Preferably the angle and placement of this long blunt drift? I am trying to understand how this tool makes the retaining ring release the CV joint. I do not want to damage anything as all I am replacing is the seal.
 

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2002 chevy trailblazer_ltz
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Schurkey, would you happen to have anymore pics of the process of removing the CV? Preferably the angle and placement of this long blunt drift? I am trying to understand how this tool makes the retaining ring release the CV joint. I do not want to damage anything as all I am replacing is the seal.
The pics from post 76 are about as good as you are gonna see. It simply lets the clip release from brute force, nothing special about it. Otherwise see post 72 for another way to go about it. Good luck
 
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