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2005 chevy trailblazer_ls
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6 Posts
Well, I read this thread trying to fix my leaky driverside seal as well, however my front drive axle is stuck and I cannot remove it. I have tried some serious prybars and the slide hammer tool with no luck, anyone know of any issues with the circlip not disengaging? Mine still seems locked in place.
 

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2004 gmc
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26,181 Posts
My first one required a huge hit with a 5 pound sledge on a short piece of rebar aimed at the tripot housing. My 3-pound hand sledge was not manly enough. Since then I've been using anti-seize on the splines of the CV inner shaft and they come out more easily.

With enough force, you might pull out the bearing and seal along with the shaft, but the circlip should certainly give up before that. Driver's side is usually easier than the passenger's side because the circlip is lubed by differential oil while the passenger's side is drier.
 

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2005 chevy trailblazer_ls
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Thanks for the input, after manning up some I went to the hardware store and bought a big chisel to go with my 4lb BFH (pictured). The slide hammer tool was futile, it did not budge it an inch. After four good licks on the chisel with the hammer against the tripot, it popped loose. I used a regular seal puller (pictured) to pull the seal and it was out in seconds. I used a rented bearing/seal driver similar to the one previously pictured in this thread to install the new one (pictured). It was back on the road by 4:30 or so yesterday. Thanks for the help, this site is invaluable.







 

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2007 buick rainier
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33 Posts
I am in the middle of replacing the driverside differential seal and I have 2 questions. When i installed the new seal I am not able to get it flush with the differential casing. It is just 1 to 2 millimenters from flush and i dont remember if the old seal was like that (I forgot take pics before i pulled it). The other question i have is when installing the axle, what location should i be "beating on". I am worried about damaging the axle and dont want to go pounding where i shouldn't.
 

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2005 chevy trailblazer_ls
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6 Posts
It goes in flush, it can be hard to do it with the available angles, one trick I use is to take the seal driver and put it on the edge and tap around the circumference of the seal in different spots, it should fix the protrusion. My axle was hell getting out but I just re-inserted it and it clicked in place, I gave it a good tug and felt that it had locked back in place. I used the 4x4 since then with no problems or leaks.
 

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2004 olds bravada
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40 Posts
I changed my seal, axle and hub (timken).

The stupid seal seems to be seeping again!!!!!!!!
GAWD i am P.O.'d at this.:duh:

I used a seal install kit and it was definitely flushly installed and all the way in.
The cardone axle was sticking out a bit, but i put the 36mm nut on the end and wailed it with the 3lb sledge and it went in to almost all the way to the housing.
Currently sitting about 1/4 in out. It stopped, so thats got to be all the way.

Anyone else have this stupid seal leak after you just changed it??:hissy:
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_lt
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21 Posts
I'm going to be attempting the seal change this weekend. Just got a quote from a shop of $600, no thanks i'll do it myself. Even if i ruin 1 seal in the process its still far cheaper. I feel that i can do this job relatively easy thanks to all the info in this thread and others. Gonna pick up a seal puller and install kit on my way home from work today. One question, what brand fluid are you guys using for re-filling the diff? I've got the options of mobil 1, royal purple, and lucas oil.

Thanks guys, i'll try to take some pictures and post how it goes on saturday.
 

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2006
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4,126 Posts
I use Mobil 1 synthetic
 

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2005 chevy trailblazer_ls
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6 Posts
My research found that for the front differential, conventional fluid works fine but I would use a quality fluid, like the Mobil 1 synthetic previously mentioned, or Royal Purple, which is what I used. It holds one bottle exactly. Better quality protecton will guard from failure. No posi additive is needed for the front.
 

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2004 gmc
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My research found that for the front differential, conventional fluid works fine ...
Works fine, but doesn't meet the published requirement in the Owner's Manual. If by "conventional" you mean non-synthetic. You're right about "why worry about a saving couple of $$" when it comes to something you change every few years. :thumbsup:
 

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2005 chevy trailblazer_ls
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6 Posts
Thats right, my use of the term "conventional" was not correct, I meant that no additive for positive traction is needed, so most any synthetic in 70W-90 will work. The term conventional means mineral based oil, which not what you want to use, as noted above. I've used synthetic gear oil so long I consider it a given.
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_lt
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21 Posts
I completed the seal swap in about 2.5 hours with much thanks to this thread. Got the seal from the dealer, gear oil seal puller and installation tools from autozone, and used a long impact gun extension as my "drift". Everything came apart surprisingly easy (air tools/electric impact guns help significantly here). I feel my axle even came out much easier than many here had described, at first i wasn't even sure it had a circlip on it, but it did. Thanks again for all the information.

So far i haven't noticed any fluid seeping out so i'm hoping i can permanently cross this one off the list. While i had the car up i changed the transfer case fluid and repaired my leaking charcoal canister as well!

Nate
 

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2003 chevy trailblazer_ltz
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27 Posts
I am getting ready to replace the front differential seal (where the cv axle goes into the diff) on the drivers side of my 03 TB and I am reading that the seal is a dealer only part. I found this part on Autozone's website and picked one up locally and it looks like the correct part. Rockauto. Com also lists this part as a front axle shaft seal. Here is the part:

TIMKEN Part # 710491

Will this not work? Thought I would ask before I got everything torn apart. I have the carrier bearing as well since I am in there.

Thanks.
 

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2002 chevy trailblazer_lt
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438 Posts
Be careful Doug, Ive read on here from a lot of members that any aftermarket seal does not fit. Its likely mis-listed on Autozones system. You might want to call around a few local GM/Chevy dealerships and make sure they have the seal in stock before you take the seal out and find yourself stranded if the new seal is too small, like members have reported.

If its the outer front drivers side diff seal, the one the halfshaft passes through, the new GM Part# is 19257296. It superceded GM Part #12471618. However, giving either part # to the parts guy at a GM dealer will result in the same seal for the job.

Bottom line: Im not quite willing to put money on it just yet, but Im betting the Timken seal you bought is the incorrect one. :m2:

The correct seal is also for sale on Ebayhere so you can use that picture in the auction for comparison.
 
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