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2006 chevy trailblazer_ss_lt
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168 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I've just about replaced all of them (Pinion seal three times). Now have leak on the driver's side where the axle goes through the Oil pan. Has anyone replaced this one? AllData says takes 10 hours, and you have to drop the Oil pan. From looking at it, doesn't seem that the pan needs to be dropped. Anyone with experience to chime in? Vehicle is a 2006 TBSS with 136,000 miles.

JeSSter
 

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2003 chevy trailblazer_ls
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15 Posts
I might be looking at the same thing. Replies from anyone with experience would be appreciated!!
 

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2006 chevy trailblazer_ss_lt
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168 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Promising solution: In the engine compartment, there is a cap in the vent tube that comes up from the front differential. It was pretty gunked up. I took the cap out and cleaned it. I did not put it back in yet. I have driven about 150 miles, mostly at higher highway speeds (about 80). It should be seeping, but it is still nice and dry. Couple more days, and I'll try replacing the cap, it is there so that nothing that gets into the differential. This is not supposed to be a pressurized system, the gear oil is just supposed to splash around in there. I'll let you know.

JeSSter
 

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2006 chevy trailblazer_ss_lt
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Discussion Starter #4
Promising solution ended up a bust. Leak is still there. Looks like I'm gonna have to pull the differential. Anyone have some good instructions?

JeSSter
 

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2006 chevy trailblazer_ss_lt
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Discussion Starter #5
I did finally pull the Front Differential. Man was that a lot of work: Had to pull the front axles, drop the Rack and Pinion, finally drop the oil pan. Looked promising before dropping the oil pan, thought I could turn the differential so that the inner seal was facing down.....couldn't make it happen. Put in the new seals, put it all back together (with new grease in the actuator on the passenger side). No more leaks, eveything looked good except that the toe in had to be adjusted (from dropping the rack). Drove home, and as I was pulling in the garage, I could hear the tappets on the driver's side pretty loud. Took it up to the dealer cause I figured something got into the oil pump bypass (keeping it open) and they wanted $1500.00 just to tear it down to where they could give me an estimate. Took a couple of days off work (had to use up vacation anyway) and tore down the front of the motor to replace or clean up the bypass. It was tricky getting the bolt that holds the take-up tube in without dropping the oil pan again, but using a magnet and pick (after breaking it loose with a box-end) did the trick. I just went ahead an bought a new oil pump because the pressure was dropping off anyhow. Again the pick-up was tricky to get back in, but I used dental floss on the bolt at the shank in case it dropped. Got it all back together fairly well. Put in a new AC Compressor and new belts while apart (the old compressor wasn't working well). The compressor wasn't brand new (the dealer wanted $800 for new), but it only had 10 miles on it (salvage). Oil pump was $120 at the dealer, but at idle when warmed up now, it reads about 42psi. With the old pump, it was right at about 32psi when warm. Everthing runs great now. Cooling is also better, cleaned up the condensor and radiator when they were apart. SS has almost 145K on it now, should make it to 200K easily.:woot:
 

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2006 chevy
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177 Posts
I did finally pull the Front Differential. Man was that a lot of work: Had to pull the front axles, drop the Rack and Pinion, finally drop the oil pan. Looked promising before dropping the oil pan, thought I could turn the differential so that the inner seal was facing down.....couldn't make it happen. Put in the new seals, put it all back together (with new grease in the actuator on the passenger side). No more leaks, eveything looked good except that the toe in had to be adjusted (from dropping the rack). Drove home, and as I was pulling in the garage, I could hear the tappets on the driver's side pretty loud. Took it up to the dealer cause I figured something got into the oil pump bypass (keeping it open) and they wanted $1500.00 just to tear it down to where they could give me an estimate. Took a couple of days off work (had to use up vacation anyway) and tore down the front of the motor to replace or clean up the bypass. It was tricky getting the bolt that holds the take-up tube in without dropping the oil pan again, but using a magnet and pick (after breaking it loose with a box-end) did the trick. I just went ahead an bought a new oil pump because the pressure was dropping off anyhow. Again the pick-up was tricky to get back in, but I used dental floss on the bolt at the shank in case it dropped. Got it all back together fairly well. Put in a new AC Compressor and new belts while apart (the old compressor wasn't working well). The compressor wasn't brand new (the dealer wanted $800 for new), but it only had 10 miles on it (salvage). Oil pump was $120 at the dealer, but at idle when warmed up now, it reads about 42psi. With the old pump, it was right at about 32psi when warm. Everthing runs great now. Cooling is also better, cleaned up the condensor and radiator when they were apart. SS has almost 145K on it now, should make it to 200K easily.:woot:
So which seal ended up causing the leak? I have a slow leak coming from the driver's side of the front diff.
 
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