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2002 chevy trailblazer_ls
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone!! I have found myself on here a lot. Everyone here seems to have so much great information. I think you guys are doing an amazing job!

As for myself, I have ran into a simular problem I have seen on here in a few different post. I have a "Front axle disconnect assemblie" on the passenger side of my 02 Trailblazer that the bearing went out in. It ended up busting my CV shaft and I couldn't get the whole shaft out. However, I haven't been driving it since I have ran into this issue and would like to fix it before Winter. I have removed what I believe is the 4 bolts that hold the Front axle disconnect in. However, I can not get it to release from the 4X4 Transfer case. If anyone has any suggestions or knows any tricks on getting it to release from the the transfer case, and any idea of where I could get it rebuilt at that would be great. Thanks so much.

Hope this pic works.





For a bigger picture, this is my link to the photo. If you copy and past, it will bring up the pic. Then if you double click the pic, it will make the pic as big as your screen.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/709/frontaxle.jpg/
 

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2002 gmc envoy_sle
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9 Posts
Having done the removal of this twice succesfully, I can probably give you some help. Remove the entire skid plate from the bottom of the engine, this will give you room to get a wedge upto the disconnect. you need to get something wedge shaped that will fit between the disconnect and the oilpan, BUT only where the bolt mountings are, trying to do this anywhere else on the oilpan could crack it.

You need to hit the wedge hard with a hammer. I found starting with a small flat screwdriver worked best for me. then moved to a bigger size until it popped out. (Be careful, I split my thumb open when trying to pry the unit out with a prybar. Wasnt fun trying to re-assemble the front end with only one hand. the other was wrapped tightly to stop the bleeding... needed car fixed to get my thumb fixed lol)

Looking at you seal in the picture, it appears the bearing has been bad for a long time.

When you do get it apart, take pictures of where the thrust washers go... I didnt the first time, and had to take it all apart again.
 

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2002 chevy trailblazer_ls
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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you for the info. I was trying a prybar today as well. I busted my knuckle open pretty good. Lol. Should have had stitches, but it will heal. :worried: Im glad you mentoned taking the skid plate off the bottem. I was thinking about doing that and trying to use a prybar at a different angle. I agree, the wedge is probably a much better idea. Im a little worred about rebuilding this myself. I talked to a dealership about this and they said somthing about being "Locked and Clocked" I have never done 4X4 work before. So I have no Idea what he was talking about. To you have any clue what he ment? And does it pertain to what Im doing?

You said you have done this twice now... I take it this is a huge ongoing issue? Any suggestions on where to find the parts to rebuild it?

Thanks again for your help.

Rich
 

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2002 gmc envoy_sle
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I did it twice, due to me getting the thrust washers in the wrong place the first time, be aware if you do decide to redo this yourself.

There is a great walkthru of the repair here http://www.offroadtb.com/articles/tech-docs/front-axle-4wd-disconnect

Locked and clocked im pretty certain isnt regarding the repair. The dealer probably suspects that your mileage isnt correct from what the dashboard is saying. I may be wrong, and one of the more knowledgable members may correct me.

The repair is do-able on your own but will take the best part of a day to complete. Parts are available from a dealer or just do a google search for cheap online gm parts. The part numbers are all listed on the page i gave you the link to.

I ordered

1 x 12479302 Outer CV Shaft Seal
3 x 26053326 Needle Bearing
1 x 12471625 Outer Thrust Washer
1 x 12479132 Shift Fork
1 x 12471624 Fork Spring
1 x 12471629 Middle Thrust Washer
1 x 12471623 Inner Thrust Washer
1 x 15801507 Inner Shaft Seal

This should let you rebuild your disconnect. You may also need to order the gears themselves if the bearing surfaces are badly worn.

Its not a difficult job to do once you have it out and in pieces. just remember to degrease all the parts your keeping, as you dont want to leave any old gunked up grease in there.
 

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2002 chevy trailblazer_ls
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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks again!! I will be extra careful to take notes when I take it apart to ensure I get it back together right. The walk thru link you gave me is awesome! I wont get to work on it again until this coming weekend. Hopefully I will be able to get a good start on it. Just out of curiousity, what did you use to degreese the parts?

On another note, you mentioned that I might need to replace the gears on mine. I think there is a good chance you are right. Im not sure how long I drove on it before I realized what was wrong. And the broken half of the CV shaft is stuck in there. So I think it might have dammaged more componants inside.

As for "Locked And Clocked". I think the dealership was just trying to make it sound harder so that I would get it done there. They knew I was talking about my four wheel drive front axle. They said once it is apart, if you dont get it locked and clocked, it will never work. Like I said, I think they were just trying to scare me into getting it fixed there. Or maybe there is a different part on the four wheel drive that needs it and they just misunderstood which part I was talking about. Either way, I am def going to give this a go. Im a pretty patient person, and I tend to be very meticulous on how I do the work myself. So once I get it apart, I will def take the time to make sure it is perfect when I put it back together. Still makes me wonder what "Locked and Clocked" is. Lol.

Again, thanks for all your help!!
 

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2004 gmc
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There's an aftermarket source FINALLY for these, so you don't need to source GM parts. Just search Amazon for "ATP 111001 Front Axle Disconnect"

$300.
 

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2002 chevy trailblazer_ls
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Discussion Starter #7
Awesome! I just checked it out. It says they are Brand New, not remanufactured and it sounds like its the whole thing. If my gears are bad, I might go that route. And there is a good chance my gears are bad. Lol.

Im going to look into it more. Im curious if it comes with a new actuator as well or if its without an actuator. This could make nudge me to get it even more if a new actuator comes with it. After all, the Actuator is a $97 part by itself......

Thanks for the tip!!
 

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2006 gmc envoy_denali
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i had the very same problem a couple of months back, i ended up buying the ATP 111001 from amazon, and the AP cv half shafts from Rock Auto, and they do rock if i may say, they are super fast in shipping and great service.
 

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I have a spare OEM actuator if you want it, cheap. Also have a few other spare parts from when I rebuilt my disconnect if you need anything too. Just PM me if you need anything.

I had the same issue trying to get my disconnect off the side of the oil pan. I ended up busting it so that was fun to extract.
 

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Im going to look into it more. Im curious if it comes with a new actuator as well or if its without an actuator. This could make nudge me to get it even more if a new actuator comes with it. After all, the Actuator is a $97 part by itself......
ATP's product is the front disconnect only; no actuator.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I know its been a while, and I want to thank everyone again for all their help and advice. I finally got to take it all apart this weekend. And I did end up breaking the housing on the Old quick disconnect. But thats ok, because my new one should be here any day now. I was hoping to have it already. Not a bad price to fix everything. Total for everything I replaced is $405. That includes the Quick Disconnect, A new Hub, A new acutator, and my rear break hardware needed to be done too. Great price on all of it. Thanks again so much everyone.

I do pose a question with this reply though. When I took my Quick Disconnect out, the inner shaft slid right out. Is that normal? And I lost a lot of fluid. Does the front differental have differental fluid, or is it somehow tied to the transmission fluid? Might sound like a stupid question, but I dont see where to refill it when I put it back together, and it looks just like Transmission fluid. Anyone come across this as well? Any information would be great. Thanks again everyone!!

:)
 

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2004 gmc
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The intermediate shaft should have a circlip on it for retention. I haven't taken mine out, but mose members who touch it report needing to screw a bolt into a threaded hole in the end to get enough grip.

What came out was front differential fluid, which is 75-90 synthetic (Mobil 1 or equiv) gear oil. Should be nasty smelling and gray. No possible connection to transmission fluid. If some idiot filled it with tranny fluid, you need to get it out ASAP. The process and location of the fill and drain plugs on the driver's side have been discussed extensively in other threads I'm sure you can find.

What's the maintenance history and mileage? Who could have possibly put the wrong fluid in the diff? It was really red tranny fluid?!? :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
My 02 Trialblazer has 186,000 on it. It runs fantastic. Swerved to miss a neon a while ago and went through a deep ditch. Smacked the cv shaft and ended up breaking the Front Transfer Quick Disconnet on the Passengers side. When I took it apart, the intermediate shaft came right out of the front transfer case. The fluid was redish and a bit thin. I never had problems with it and I bought it with 115,000 miles on it. So I assume the fluid in it is the Mobile Transfer Fluid you are speaking of. It just looked simular to trans fluid. It def wasn't gray. However, in the Quick disconnet, it was very gray and dirty. And it smelled pretty bad. I will look for the fill spots you mentioned. And I appreciate the information. :)
 

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... has 186,000 on it...bought it with 115,000 miles on it...
So you assumed the previous owner changed the differential oil front and rear and you haven't checked the level in all this time? :confused:

Did you at least change the transfer case fluid every 50K as required? :yes:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I have had it in on to be serviced on a regular basis. I have had many things done, but I dont recall having my 4 wheel drive serviced. :( I know I had quite a few things serviced at 150,000. Just dont recall if that was one of them. However, when something breaks, I am normally the one to do my repairs. I like to understand how things work. But I am a bit puzzled by why my fluid in my front transfer case was Red if your saying it should be gray. Is all transfer fluid gray? I have it parked and I am still waiting for the parts. With any luck, I will have it fixed soon... Thanks for the added info about when to service it. I will put that in my service book I keep. :)
 

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2006 chevy trailblazer_ls
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it isn't "transfer fluid" in the front differential, it is basically good old fashioned smelly dark thick gear oil, just the new synthetic kind. Mine was pretty gray coming out and I changed mine at about 75k. I used Royal Purple to put back in. Advance didn't have enough Mobile1 but they gave me the RP at the M1 price. For the life of me though I can't remember if the RP is actually purple or not :)

The transfer case uses AutoTrac II fluid (dealer item) which is blue, bluer than 2cycle oil.
 

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front disconnect issue

hello, I was wondering if anyone could help. I have a 2006 tb and the first thing I noticed with the front end was when in auto 4 and when activated it sounded like the gears were grinding trying to mesh. The next issue started when I lifted the blazer 2" the 4hi and lo would not engage but the transfer case did go into 4lo but only 2wd so it's working properly. I have never had any issues getting the 4 hi lo to activate before the lift. I do here the front mod though when switching to 4hi lo.
any ideas would be very helpful. Thanks
 

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front axle disconnect....

While my mechanic was doing the front timing cover, he removed the front axle disconnect, and found it was trashed. It's a sealed unit, so there's no gear lube that migrates between it and the differential. So, after 178000 miles, it gave up.
I found one on eBay, a place in Minnesota sells them. 100% seller rating, over 80 sold. $375 shipped, with actuator.
 
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