Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum banner
1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
2008 chevy trailblazer_ls
Joined
·
468 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So this is what I ended up doing.. hoping its ok.. let me know what you think..
Overall View

Engine Block to Chassis

Negative Batt. to Chassis and you can see Positive Batt. to Alt.

Negative Batt. to Chassis


And what I did was instead of hooking up to the battery positive, because I accidently stripped the terminal, :mad: I connected it all to the positive fuse box. Here's the pic of
Alt to positive in fuse box, also positive for 4 gauge wire run to back for amp, and also positive for stock wiring.

I'll be getting a better battery soon and I'll do it all directly to the Positive Terminal but for now this seems to work just fine and my volts went from
JUMPING CRAZILY FROM
11 -12.5 to
a VERY STABLE 13.25 at FULL TILT SYSTEM BUMPIN and around 13.5-14 Volts regular music(half way).

Very happy with the outcome..
I used KnuKonceptz 0 Gauge wiring and KnuKonceptz Ring Terminals along with KnuKonceptz Battery Terminals. :woot:
 

·
Registered
2002 chevy trailblazer_ls
Joined
·
1,667 Posts
Great pics. :thumbsup:

What was the total length of the wire you bought and about how much did that run you? (including terminals and the connector for the battery posts)

PS: I know you mentioned it, but seriously, I would get the battery ASAP. I have a feeling the positive in the fuse box isn't the best place for that wire.
 

·
Registered
2008 chevy trailblazer_ls
Joined
·
468 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Bought 8 feet of KnuKonceptz 0 Gauge for the install, however only use about 6 1/2 feet.. Total purchase price with wire, terminals, and connectors for battery was about $33 excluding shipping.. I think shipping is like 5 bucks??
 

·
Registered
2008 chevy trailblazer_ls
Joined
·
468 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Oh and also,
the stock wiring was hooked up there at the positive at the fuse box so I figured, if all I'm doing is adding more copper then I don't see how it can cause a problem??
 

·
Registered
2008 chevy trailblazer_ls
Joined
·
468 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
its actually 90% copper with 10% aluminum.. not aluminum with copper coating like you say fyi
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,781 Posts
what you have as saying "Engine Block to chassis" should actually be on the engine block itself (below the starter and ran to the shock tower) instead of on the alternator bracket..


thats my only qualm about it.. otherwise it looks nice
 

·
Registered
2008 chevy trailblazer_ls
Joined
·
468 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hey may yeah I was able to squeeze through and do the alt + to batt + without taking it off.. little painful and fustrating, but did it :yes:

and majestic.. I saw it done like this from another Trailblazer member on CA.Com..

do you happen to have a pic of yours where it should be going?? Thanks for the heads up..
 

·
Registered
2003 chevy trailblazer_lt
Joined
·
1,289 Posts
Not to hijack this thread but I figured why post 2 lol. I just ordered my wires etc. as well from knukonceptz.com Thx to STR8BaLLiNTB good choice of wire and its a lot cheaper then streetwire at crutchfield. :thx Will post pics as well not that it matters seen it once already lol
 

·
Registered
2007 chevy trailblazer_ls
Joined
·
1,251 Posts
Good job! You better get that battery quick, no clue if it could cause any problems where it is now, but no sense in taking a chance. That is some thick wire, what does your system consist of?
 

·
Registered
2003 chevy trailblazer_lt
Joined
·
1,289 Posts
If you have a Optima with dual post, does everything have to go thru the side post? or can the rest be connected to the top post?[/
QUOTE]

I don't believe you have to go through the side post if ur cables are long enough
 

·
Registered
2003 chevy trailblazer_lt
Joined
·
1,289 Posts
Currently I'm using the side, but I'd rather go thru the top to avoid stripping the side post, ya know:D
Idont see how it would be a prob the power should come out of all post even if you ur already using one
 

·
Registered
2004 chevy trailblazer_ls
Joined
·
198 Posts
its actually 90% copper with 10% aluminum.. not aluminum with copper coating like you say fyi
I believe you got that wrong.

Straight from knukonceptz website:

Description: KnuKonceptz continues to blaze new trails for automotive audio enthusiasts with its new Copper Clad Aluminum Cable dubbed 'KLMX'. Copper Clad Aluminum (CCA) is made up of 90% Aluminum and 10% Copper. Consisting of 66.88mm^2 of CCA the KLM Kable is equal in size to the Kolossus Kable, but is designed for lighter current loads and not lightening your wallet.

FYI

Although it says it will handle a 250 amp load.:woohoo:
 

·
Registered
2002 Trailblazer LT EXT
Joined
·
15 Posts
I believe you got that wrong.

Straight from knukonceptz website:

Description: KnuKonceptz continues to blaze new trails for automotive audio enthusiasts with its new Copper Clad Aluminum Cable dubbed 'KLMX'. Copper Clad Aluminum (CCA) is made up of 90% Aluminum and 10% Copper. Consisting of 66.88mm^2 of CCA the KLM Kable is equal in size to the Kolossus Kable, but is designed for lighter current loads and not lightening your wallet.

FYI

Although it says it will handle a 250 amp load.:woohoo:
😂🤣Ha Ha!!🤣😂
🔥🔥🔥🔥BUURRRN!!🔥🔥🔥🔥
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top