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2004 gmc envoy_slt
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This is a complete step-by-step of a Bulldog Deluxe 500 installation. I have previously installed Bulldog units in 2 cars and I find them very easy to use and reliable so I went ahead with Bulldog as my brand of choice. I used the INT-SL module from Fortin to bypass my security system. It was very easy to use and the website has a very straightforward wiring guide.

First off let me say that this site is amazing. Although Bulldog has wiring schematics for different vehicles on their site, I went to the Resources section on Trailvoy and followed their wiring diagrams. It made finding all wires a breeze.

Now, if anyone purchases this unit, I will be happy to post what wires I spliced into what, but since all starters have different wiring harnesses and such, I'll leave that aside unless asked. I also apologize for some blurry photos. These were taken on a 5 megapixel camera on a cell phone and let's just say the focus isn't very advanced.

Ok, so first I soldered and covered the wires in the ignition harness (heavy gauge). I have circled the 6 7mm bolts needed to get to the inside of the steering column.



After removing the main panel, there is a large metal cover over the ignition harness. This must be removed to get to it. There are 4 10mm bolts keeping it fastened, 2 on each side. I had to use 2 extensions on my ratchet to get to them.





I also had to purchase a relay to power accessory #2. Some remote starters may come with this output (be sure its a heavy gauge wire) and will allow you to skip this step. But for me, this starter did not come with an Accessory #2 output but did tell me to use "Ignition #1" to activate the relay. So, this is the relay I purchased from Autozone, along with 14 gauge wiring and female pin connectors.



I placed this relay on one of the bolts below the large metal cover on the right side. It fastened tightly and didn't get in the way. I used Ignition #1 to activate the relay and used one of the 12v constant wires from the ignition harness (red and red/white wires) to power the accessory.



Now the ignition harness is exposed. It is fastened in place with 1 7mm bolt in the center. It's long and takes a bit to come loose so be patient.

The process for soldering the ignition wires is simple. I used an exacto-knife and cut a circle around each wire in 2 places with about a 1 inch gap in between. After cutting both circles, cut straight across and connect both your cuts and pull off the covering of the wire. I then used a pen (anything sharp will work) to spread the copper and leave a gap in between. I slid the wire to be soldered (from the starter module) into the gap and wrapped it around the wire. Then I soldered on either side. After soldering, I wrapped it in electrical tape and put a zip-tie on either side to prevent it from becoming exposed. Using shrink-wrap may be a better choice but let's just say I was a little impatient and this method has worked fine for me before. Thanks to awer25 for showing how to separate the wire from the others with a piece of wood to prevent it from melting them. Here's the process tapping into the starter wire.











Here is the ignition harness with all heavy wires tapped and the entire harness wrapped up in electrical tape. My starter required 3 different 12v constants, my Accessory #2 powered by relay required one, and my INT-SL module required one too so I was sure to evenly distribute them among the 12v constant wires (red and red/white).





I also had to mount the 2-way antenna. I ran the wire across the headliner along the windshield and down the pillar into the bottom of the steering column. The plastic cover over the inside of the pillar pops out just like the cover over the radio. Simply use a flathead screwdriver to pry it out.



I couldn't believe the size of the INT-SL module. Here's a comparison of it with the stock key fob.



What's amazing is that this tiny module controls all functions of the new starter (lock, unlock, parking lights, etc.) all through only 2 wires, OBD wire #2 and Ignition #1. The programming was very simple and straightforward. For those who look at the wiring diagram of the INT-SL, if you do not have the data link connector, be sure to connect the "While Running (-)" wire. I was confused as to why the starter said the car was started even though it wasn't and realized this wire was essential to deactivating the PATS system to start without the key.

The harness that has the brake switch was also tricky to get to. You have to get on your back under the steering column with the seat all the way back. Push back the tab with a flathead screwdriver and tug on the wires to get it loose. You may have a sore back after going back there because it's tough to get to.

After installing everything, I decided to leave off the metal cover because it made fitting everything under the cover difficult. You may also notice wire splicers on some of the wires. On the light gauge wires I chose to use wire splicers since these wires carry very little current. And also notice the hunk of wrapped wires. These wires are programmable outputs that I have not used yet. I haven't thought of any outputs to program but if I do, the harness is right there.



Also, if you don't put the metal cover back under the steering column, be sure to line the main plastic cover with rubber or something to prevent everything from rattling. I made that mistake and the rattle is really bugging me but I have not got around to fixing it (I guess it hasn't annoyed me enough yet).

Thanks for viewing.
 

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2004 gmc envoy_slt
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Discussion Starter #6
Can you post a link on where you bought the starter and INT-SL from? Thanks!
http://www.ambientweather.com/dbintsl.html

Be sure they have more in stock before order because I think their stock was low. I called to make sure before I ordered.

So does this mean you can start the vehicle with the stock key fob alarm?
Haha, no that was just a size comparison. I was showing how small the INT-SL really is. I found it startling that something this small performs so many functions.
 

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2004 gmc envoy_slt
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Discussion Starter #8
Is there anyway of installing the factory remote start to the factory key fob
There was no factory remote starter. My car didn't come with one. GM didn't start offering cars from the factory with remote start until about 2006 or 2007. This is a completely aftermarket remote starter.
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_lt_ext
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Is there anyway of installing the factory remote start to the factory key fob
BullDog does make a remote that looks stock but has an extra starter button for this starter. http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/Products/500000017-model-a704-four-button-remote-transmitter.aspx

BigApple, great writeup and thanks very much for the detailed instructions, I'm thinking about adding this system to my 04 Trailblazer and came across the remote. Do you or anybody have any experience with it. The included remote has the nice 2 way feature that I think would be better, but I already have a keychain full of keys, remotes, bar code cards and a gate opener.
 

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My remote starter does not allow the parking lights to be turned off unless it is restarted with the key in the ignition and the key fob is difficult to use. The key fob requires pussing the buttons several times (not once or twice like stock) and is a real annoyance. I did n ot install mine as I bought it with it installed. Do you exprience these problems?
 

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http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthread.php?t=67642

If you need info on everything to connect, let me know in my new thread and I'll give you wiring for every harness to get it to work on the first try.
Big Apple I have the Bulldog 500 Starter and an INT-SL module arrives today. When it does I'll be in the garage installing it right away. Can you provide me with wiring for each harness? I'd really appreciate it, I looked at the Bulldog install manual last night and this morning and there are 9 different harnesses and like 30 connections mentioned. I'm hoping the INT-SL will negate the need for many of them.

Also, you mentioned the relay was necessary but I'm not clear why it's needed, can you explain that too. I'm not using a T-harness and am going to solder the high power wire connections. Thanks!:thx
 

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Also, you mentioned the relay was necessary but I'm not clear why it's needed, can you explain that too. I'm not using a T-harness and am going to solder the high power wire connections. Thanks!:thx

The relay is needed because, if the Bulldog is like the Viper, there is only one ACC out, but the vehicle needs two ACC wires powered (the brown and orange wires).
 

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The relay is needed because, if the Bulldog is like the Viper, there is only one ACC out, but the vehicle needs two ACC wires powered (the brown and orange wires).
OK, I see that now. I'm head to Autozone and pick up that same relay, wire and stuff bigapple used. How do I wire the relay? I generally understand them, but have only replaced them, never wired one.

Thanks for the reply, these things are a little daunting at first and I want to make sure I have everything I need before I start. I want to avoid the wife coming home with my truck dead in her garage spot with a lot of wires hanging down. She just hates when that happens. The INT-SL bypass just arrived, what a sweet little gadget that is.
 

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OK, I see that now. I'm head to Autozone and pick up that same relay, wire and stuff bigapple used. How do I wire the relay? I generally understand them, but have only replaced them, never wired one.
I wrote up an article/wire guide for the Viper system (it's in the sticky A&E section), and if it's like the Viper unit, then here's the wires for the relay:

o Additional Relay needed for ACC 2. Splice into the following:

* Pin 85 – Orange ACC wire (H3/3)
* Pin 86 – Common ground
* Pin 87 – IGN B6 Brown (Accessory 2)
* Pin 30 – 12V constant (I used IGN B5 Red)
This assumes you hooked the ACC out into the orange wire. If you hooked it to the brown wire, then just reverse the brown/orange wires above.
 

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Great write-up on your Viper. I just read, printed and bookmarked it. Thanks for the wiring pictures, they are much better than the wiring list that came with the INT-SL interface. Half the wires in the list are located "under the column" ummm, everything is under the column, they could be a little more specific.

I think I have everything needed including the relay, wire, soldering gun, test probe, multimeter, tape, coffee, aspirin, antacids and 6 hours alone. Thanks for your help and wish me luck.
 

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Well, I went at it for 5 hours and think I have it installed right but it just wouldn't start. I had to quit when the wife came home (told her I needed another part or all hell would ensue) and am going back to it in an hour. The remote works/communicates with the remote starter, it unlocks and locks the doors. When I hit ** (to trigger a remote start) I hear the fuel pump pressurize and then a few clicks but no start. The remote then indicates it started??? The INT-SL connected fine and programmed on the first try and the 2-way remote connected to the bulldog and communictaes.

The Viper and some other directions I've seen cut the starter wire and connect both ends to the box, the key side to a green wire and the harness side to the starter output. Bulldog says to attach the Violet starter wire to the starter crank wire (our Yellow) I didn't cut the starter wire but connected to it. There is no starter input on the bulldog box, so I'm confused.

I have no idea what I did wrong and have checked every connection a few times. I'd really appreciate any help. I've read the Bulldog install manual and the INT-SL wiring diagram so many times I'm going nuts.
 

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I figured it out. After checking all the programming I started checking connections. When I had the purple violet start wire off I checked it with a mutimeter during an attempted start and it had plenty of juice for about a second when I was hearing the relay in the starter close. The remote box had plenty of juice on the feed side of the fuses so I checked all the kills. The neutral safety wire, the hood pin wire and the handbrake safety wire and taped them off (I'm installing the hood pin today). Still all the motions but no starter crank.

I then started checking all the connections to/from the INT-SL bypass and found I had connected the blue wire the (-) while running to the wrong output on the starter. It should have been to the first wire in the 2nd harness blue/black and I had connected it to the second wire which was black/violet. Dhooohhh. That wire was a momentary and time programmable 200ma (-) output for a feature like a moonroof etc. The (-) while running was looking for a constant 200ma (-) feed. I cut it and corrected it and she fired right up on the next try. So the moral of the story is USE PLENTY OF LIGHT AND DOUBLE CHECK WIRE COLORS.

I have to thank Awer25 for his help, especially by PM. The Bulldog helpline is apparently closed although they advertise 8-8pm, every time I called it was closed and it said to call back the next business day. I can't say there was any problem with the directions but they suck anyway for advertising an unsupported helpline.

If I had to do it over again, I would use a DEI product with a data link port. It uses a 2 way 4 wire plug to eliminate about 6 connections and the power and ground feed for the bypass box. INT-SL is a nice but costly bypass, probably because it's data link compatible.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I figured it out. After checking all the programming I started checking connections. When I had the purple violet start wire off I checked it with a mutimeter during an attempted start and it had plenty of juice for about a second when I was hearing the relay in the starter close. The remote box had plenty of juice on the feed side of the fuses so I checked all the kills. The neutral safety wire, the hood pin wire and the handbrake safety wire and taped them off (I'm installing the hood pin today). Still all the motions but no starter crank.

I then started checking all the connections to/from the INT-SL bypass and found I had connected the blue wire the (-) while running to the wrong output on the starter. It should have been to the first wire in the 2nd harness blue/black and I had connected it to the second wire which was black/violet. Dhooohhh. That wire was a momentary and time programmable 200ma (-) output for a feature like a moonroof etc. The (-) while running was looking for a constant 200ma (-) feed. I cut it and corrected it and she fired right up on the next try. So the moral of the story is USE PLENTY OF LIGHT AND DOUBLE CHECK WIRE COLORS.

I have to thank Awer25 for his help, especially by PM. The Bulldog helpline is apparently closed although they advertise 8-8pm, every time I called it was closed and it said to call back the next business day. I can't say there was any problem with the directions but they suck anyway for advertising an unsupported helpline.

If I had to do it over again, I would use a DEI product with a data link port. It uses a 2 way 4 wire plug to eliminate about 6 connections and the power and ground feed for the bypass box. INT-SL is a nice but costly bypass, probably because it's data link compatible.
Sorry I didn't answer you soon enough. I'm in New Orleans for Mardi Gras and the Saints won the superbowl so I'm sure you understand. Louisiana is going crazy right now and so am I.

I'm glad you got it all figured out. It took me a little while to get a guy on the Bulldog helpline but once I got to him, he gave me his extension and helped me from then on. It sucks you had bad luck with their services because I was pleased. Glad everything worked out.:thumbsup:
 

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2003 chevy trailblazer_lt
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Relay for ACC#2 hookup

Hello all I am attempting to install a Bulldog RS82B, this unit has the built in bypass unit. Currently when I click the start button the unit will click and all my dash lights come on like the key is being put into the run posistion however no cranking action is taking place.

Currently I do not have the 2nd ACC wire hooked up as my unit only came with one wire for an ACC, so I bought a relay as per the thread what I am confused on is which way to hook it up. One post says to use Ignition Wire 1 to activate the relay then another post says to use the ACC Wire 1 then of course a ground, power and wire going to ACC 2.

So I am needing to know if I hook up a wire from ACC #1 to the relay and ACC #2 on the other side of it, or Ignition Wire #1 to one side and ACC #2 to the other side.

That and if anyone has any ideas why it will not currently attempt to crank, unless not having ACC#2 will cause that, all other wires are hooked up tripple checked agaisnt wire chart on this site and the book I got with Bulldog RS, From what I can tell I have the correct wires for my passlock as well as the security light doesnt blink when I hit start on the remote.

Anyone know what Passlock the 2003 Chevy TB 4.2 has? Is it Passlock II or 1?
 
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