2003 envoy. Tried nudging the power seat forward while activating switch. Didn't work. Need to remove the seat but cannot get at rear bolts because seat is stuck in rear position. Is there a way to release the track mechanism to allow the seat to slide forward to get to the rear bolts? TIA.
Driver power seat stuck in rear position
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
I think you're semi-screwed.
Any access to the drivetrain pieces and parts is done once the seat is removed from the floor mounts. You NEED to get to the drive that runs the seat front to rear - and that's gonna be a problem I betchum!
Any access to the drivetrain pieces and parts is done once the seat is removed from the floor mounts. You NEED to get to the drive that runs the seat front to rear - and that's gonna be a problem I betchum!
1. Why on Earth would you post in the 06--09 Trailblazer SS section of the forum, when you're dealing with an '03 Envoy?
2. Did you verify that the fuse for the seat motor is still good? That'd be the easy fix.
3. Remove seat bottom. This is how I accessed the seat cushion for seat heater repair on my '03 Trailblazer. Don't even have to remove the seat back.
![Automotive tire Motor vehicle Vehicle Bicycle wheel Tire]()
Four bolts going "up" into the seat cushion frame. Multiple screws to remove the switch panel for seat forward/backward/tilt/lumbar. You WILL need to d_ick with multiple electrical connectors including the yellow ones for the air bag.
"I" disconnect the battery. I DO NOT want to pop an airbag. There are others on this forum that are severely allergic to battery disconnection as they say it's hard on the air-door actuators for the heating/AC system. I figure if the actuators can't deal with a battery disconnect, they need to be replaced anyway. But that's me.
2. Did you verify that the fuse for the seat motor is still good? That'd be the easy fix.
3. Remove seat bottom. This is how I accessed the seat cushion for seat heater repair on my '03 Trailblazer. Don't even have to remove the seat back.
Four bolts going "up" into the seat cushion frame. Multiple screws to remove the switch panel for seat forward/backward/tilt/lumbar. You WILL need to d_ick with multiple electrical connectors including the yellow ones for the air bag.
"I" disconnect the battery. I DO NOT want to pop an airbag. There are others on this forum that are severely allergic to battery disconnection as they say it's hard on the air-door actuators for the heating/AC system. I figure if the actuators can't deal with a battery disconnect, they need to be replaced anyway. But that's me.
Tracks are clear of obstructions. Motors sound like they are turing but can't see any reason why the seat doesn't move.
Thanks for the input.
1. Apologize if in wrong group. We are on the road and trying to do this from a not so smart phone has been challenging. Till we get it fixed only one old and tired driver as the other needs the seat moved forward.
2. Fuze is obviously good as all motors activate. Despite hearing motor turn there is no forward motion adjustment. Looked at all gear housings. No obstructions, nothing looks damaged. Used to be able to give the seat a little nudge and it would start moving. One of the posts said to use screwdriver to leverage seat forward / backward but in the current position nothing really to leverage against.
3. Removing lower seat from track frame could be an option to get at the track area when home but then still have to move the upper track frame forward to get at the hold down bolts. Was hoping there was a way to release the motor gear drive from the tracks to allow moving seat forward and gain access to rear bolts. I'll bet GM mechanics have come across this situation before even if just to replace the whole assembly. Hoping one may be our there with a possible solution.
Thanks for the warning to disconnect the battery to avoid air bag inflation. That would not be good.
GM mechanics just send you to the new car salesman when things come in are too complicated.
Joined
·
2 Posts
I have the same issue on an '06 trailblazer. Motor sounds nothing moves. Non-GM mechanic took the seat out and could not find any obstructions or come up with why it was not working. I told him I'd pay him $100 bucks if he could get it working so I doubt he put much time into it. Had it in there for something else and tossed that at him. The seat positon fits me but doesn't fit my wife who rarely drives it.
When you unbolt the seat taking all the precautions noted, and flip it over, you'll find a short white plastic covered cable between the motor and seat mover thingie. These break but the break is hidden by the plastic cover.
This happened on my passenger seat and since it was already in the furthest rear position, I said screw it and left it alone rather than dig into that nightmare. That's likely where your problem is. If you decide to go after it, visit your dealer first and see if the replacement part is even available. I doubt a boneyard one will be much better. Take lots of pictures as there's an amazing amount of systems working in there.
Joined
·
2 Posts
Very nice to know....would love to fix it but sounds like too much effort!
The part under the seat that spins has fallen out on mine and just needed to be reattached to the part that moves the track.
If this could be your problem
While looking under the front of the seat that works.. move the seat back and forth to see how everything is working and then make sure the other side is connected the same way.
Also my passenger seat doesn't want to scoot up sometimes unless I keep pushing the switch to move forward a few times.
GoodLuck
The following is a quote from RedEnvoyDenali on the GMNation Forum. I have also experienced this seat issue when the seat is run all the way back with no load in the seat.
"I have had this issue for several years with my drivers power seat. The binding seems to be the problem on mine. If you look under the seat you will notice an aluminum colored block, outboard side on the track about 6-7"s back. What i do is take a long screwdriver and place it on the that aluminum part and then give the end of the screwdriver a tap (not a heavy hit just a tap) with something usually a wrench I keep in my storage bin in the back. After doing this it has always then responded to the controls. Hope this keeps working as it is a cheap fix and only take 15 seconds every now and then. What i think is happening is that the screw drive is binding and then it won't move."
The other often mentioned 'cure' is to fit a flat blade screwdriver between the seat frame and sliding track at the front on both sides and again tap the screwdriver. Somewhere on the internet someone posted pictures of doing this but I did not find them quickly.
I have found this tapping on both sides of the track to free the seat and everything goes back to normal. Give it a try, ya got nothing to lose.
"I have had this issue for several years with my drivers power seat. The binding seems to be the problem on mine. If you look under the seat you will notice an aluminum colored block, outboard side on the track about 6-7"s back. What i do is take a long screwdriver and place it on the that aluminum part and then give the end of the screwdriver a tap (not a heavy hit just a tap) with something usually a wrench I keep in my storage bin in the back. After doing this it has always then responded to the controls. Hope this keeps working as it is a cheap fix and only take 15 seconds every now and then. What i think is happening is that the screw drive is binding and then it won't move."
The other often mentioned 'cure' is to fit a flat blade screwdriver between the seat frame and sliding track at the front on both sides and again tap the screwdriver. Somewhere on the internet someone posted pictures of doing this but I did not find them quickly.
I have found this tapping on both sides of the track to free the seat and everything goes back to normal. Give it a try, ya got nothing to lose.
Wish that had worked. I may have seen the same post before and tried it. But tried it again with no luck. Really need to find out how to move the seat forward without power so I can get at the power assembly hold down bolts. I've located a replacement but it will do me no good unless I can take out the seat. But thanks for the suggestion.
One more thought, is it possible to unbolt the seat from the frame attached to the car? I did that on a Silverado when the seat motor quit, was not the easiest path but it worked. Or can you get to the seat frame bolts from underneath? I can not look at our TB as it is about 1200 miles away. When all else fails, there is always the Sawzall method. Seriously, if you had a replacement and you do not want to fix the old one? Good Luck!
There's always the ol' smoke wrench too.
"They" will not let me use those anywhere near anything of any kind of value. If it is going to the scrap yard or recycler, okay. Otherwise "they" keep the matches, lighters and strikers locked up.
How about sharp pointy objects.
Do you run with scissors too?
Bad robot!
Do you run with scissors too?
Bad robot!
No problems with those as the only person who gets hurt is me. You know, a stitch here, a stitch there, keep those ER docs in practice. "They" just keep fire away from me - something about that house fire when I was 8 or 9.
I've seen this problem in a Buick that I worked on --- it ended up as the driver was a little old lady and the seat stuck full-back.
She had to resort to a lot of pillows and cushions and learn to drive looking through the steering wheel .....
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Join the discussion
