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2004 gmc envoy_slt_xuv
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Discussion Starter #1
I have read a lot of posts on a "wind noise" problem. I am pretty lucky as my truck has no wind noise issues. All this work people are doing with inserting with the tubing is very confusing to me.

The door fitters in the GM assembly plants get very good, (not perfect - obviously!) by using what is called the "dollar bill test to train the fitters:

1. Place a dollar bill between the door and the seal in the area that has the wind noise.

2. Close the door on the dollar.

3. If you can slide the dollar out from between the door and the seal then you have excessive door to seal gap in that area.

4. First put the window down. Using the "knee to inner door trim panel" use two hands to bend the top of the door header inboard. By using a fair amount of strength the sheet metal will give enough to bend inboard 1/2 mm easily. A rubber mallet can also be used to beat on the door header to accomplish this but this takes way more "finesse" than most laypersons can do. Best left to experts

5. Repeat dollar bill test. If dollar bill does not slide out of a closed door you have a tight door to seal contact. If it still slides out easily repeat steps 1-4

6. Road test and repeat on other door areas as necessary.

In my 14 years of time in GM assembly plants I have never seen anyone in the plant add materials to door seals to repair a wind noise issue. Hope this works for some some the owners out there with fixing this issue.
 

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2002 chevy trailblazer_ls
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No disrespect, but I'm sure that the reason that the 'build crew' don't add tubing, etc is to the lack or real world wind noise against the windshield and the door seals while the vehicle sits stationary on the line.

This has to have been a minor design flaw that has resulted in a considerable amount of grief for a LOT of owners, myself included. I've resigned myself to the fact that I will be tone deaf in my left ear due to this incessant noise at speed.. but what do I know.. LOL.. :)

It's ANNOYING to say the least.. and I've tried pretty much everything.. but I will try the "dollar bill" test maybe tomorrow and see what the results are...
 

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2004 gmc envoy_slt
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Is it safe to say this shouldn't be done in cold weather, around freezing temperatures?
I notice the wind noise is worse in the winter, is it due to the rubber seals being stiff?
I may put it in the garage with my heater on for a while before I try this.
Thanks for the info!:thumbsup:
 

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2004 gmc envoy_slt_xuv
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Discussion Starter #4
You raise a good point, the test can be done at any temperature, but the tweeking of the door header to adjust door to seal compression should be done with the temperature of both the door and seals as close to 70 degrees as possible
 

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2005 chevy trailblazer_ls
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wow perfect timing for this thread...i saw this dollar bill test being done on 2 guy garage. once they have found the point, they tape mark and contiune arouond the whole door, examining the whole thing in one shot...at these points they then inside the weatherstripping and just put another piece of rubber behind it to cause the strippin to become thicker at this point, thus stoppin the dollar from sliding, therfor sealing the gap_ i havnt done this yet but it is a MUCH needed hour in the driveway. once the weather gets a lil better ill def be hoppin on this "mod":)
 

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2006 chevy trailblazer_ltz
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266 Posts
I have read a lot of posts on a "wind noise" problem. I am pretty lucky as my truck has no wind noise issues. All this work people are doing with inserting with the tubing is very confusing to me.

The door fitters in the GM assembly plants get very good, (not perfect - obviously!) by using what is called the "dollar bill test to train the fitters:
hello billdaman,

can you make the process with pic..
in case of anything goes worng while doing it.. can be avoided

thank you for the help:tiphat
 

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2004 gmc envoy_slt_xuv
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Discussion Starter #7
hello billdaman,

can you make the process with pic..
in case of anything goes worng while doing it.. can be avoided

thank you for the help:tiphat
Will do my best here, tough to photograph this by yourself

1. Drive vehicle and try to identify the specific area the windnoise is occuring in

2. Get a beer

[/IMG]

3. Get a crisp new bill. Open the door, place bill between door and seal

[/IMG]

4. Close door on bill



5. Tug on Bill.

[/IMG]
If it does not move seal compression is good in that area. Go to another point and repeat. If it slides easily , you need to improve seal compression in that area. NOTE: Before making adjustments make sure that the door has not "sagged" from design position. Look at the edge of the door header to see if it has the same gaps to the roof and rear or front doors as the door on the opposite side the vehicle.

These vehicles have weld on hinges
[/IMG]
and its possible for the door to sag or get bent out of position. If you suspect this is the case it is for a dealer or body shop to repair.

6. To create greater seal compression you simply need to place your knee against the lower part of the door trim panel
[/IMG]

then using both hands grab the top of the door header as shown and bend it slightly inboard.

[/IMG]

this is not really as hard to do as you might think. (Small guys and women do it for 8 hours a day in the assembly plant.)

7. Perform the dollar test again and repeat steps 2-6 again as necessary until you cannot easily move the dollar bill.

8. After your blood alcohol level stabilizes road test the vehicle. You may need to move the door header in other areas, but this technique does work.
 

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2002 olds bravada
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you would use a $100 bill. :dielaugh:

but nice write up!

I'm gonna try it as soon as i get my bravada back from the body shop!
 

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2002 chevy trailblazer_lt
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Great write up, but after many attemps at the tubing method, the bending method, the application of goo behind seal method and last but not least the application of a silicone bead around door method, my friend fixed his problem permanentely, his trick worked miracles i was just amazed, he went to a gm dealer, got into another tb (the last one on the lot by the way) tested it out while the salesguy was in there with us, went past 75 mph hear the wind blowing in the passenger side, welled at sales guy, went back to dealer got into an acadia fully loaded heard the same wind but this time at 45 mph, yelled WTF, went to dealer across (same owner) test drove a 2006 x-terra fully loaded went to 90 mph, DAMN NO WIND NOISE...signed some papers went home with his new toy....

Moral of the story ?

if you want a well built vehicule get a jap, if you want a tough truck get american

i still prefer my TB, but i am sorry to say, a japanese car is always better built

I too have the darned wind noise, PLUS the cracking at the lower passenger side....it's very annoying when driving alone, and somewhat shamefull when people are riding with you....
 

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2005 gmc envoy_denali
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I have mentioned before that I though it pretty sad that GM could not fix the wind noise in these trucks.

My truck passes the 1 dollar bill test. I was too cheap to do the 100 dollar bill test. :duh:

I still have wind noise. I wonder if at highway speed the incoming air thru the truck makes the doors baloon out just enough to loose the seal. :undecided
 

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2004 gmc envoy_slt_xuv
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Discussion Starter #12
I have mentioned before that I though it pretty sad that GM could not fix the wind noise in these trucks.

My truck passes the 1 dollar bill test. I was too cheap to do the 100 dollar bill test. :duh:

I still have wind noise. I wonder if at highway speed the incoming air thru the truck makes the doors baloon out just enough to loose the seal. :undecided
You are definitely experiencing "Wind buffeting" The slightest thing can be the cause. If you havent added any thing like oversized wiper blades or roof racks, mods to mirrors etc I would recommend that you try to compress the seal a little more by bending the top of the door header inboard.

My wife had an Aztek that passed the dollar test but still had a persistant wind noise at 65+ mph. It took a while with tweeking the door header, but eventually I got it to where I could live with it, meaning it was inperceptable to all but the most Anal retentive critic.

BTW The reason you see some 360/370 vehicles with wind noise and some without is mostly do to the high door closure efforts experienced on these vehicles because GM truck body shop management stubornly insisted on weld on door hinges. This "Net" locating of the door to the door ring in the body shop leaves very little room for adjustment. With this design you are constantly battling high door closure efforts in order to achieve good wind noise isolatiion. In the plant body shop some vehicles have little dimensional variation and can have the headers easily adjusted, others cannot!

For instance on my truck which was produced in Oklahoma City, I have no wind noise issues what so ever even at 95 mph, but I am constantly reminding my daughter to close the door because she always leaves the doors semi shut. My truck has very high door closure efforts. Low JD Powers quarterly scores for windnoise or low JD Powers scores for Door closure efforts...which battle was the assembly plant fighting during the month when your vehicle was produced? The numbers were like God during the years these vehicles were produced.

So there you have it. GM could have adjustable hinges on its trucks, but they just dont. (Cheaper to not have to change over the framing fixtures in the body shop) GM Trucks are still at least the best in my opinion.

For those who love the POS Acadia, Enclave , Outlook, Traverse minivans by Jim (Alfalfa) Queen, you will not have these windnoise issues, s these vehicles have a lift off Toyota style hinge that has adjustment, but of course you will be owning a grocery getter, not a GM TRUCK, the last designed and built by GM TRUCK Engineering in Pontiac Michigan. (Alfalfa closed it in 2005)
 

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2005 chevy trailblazer_lt
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111 Posts
Will do my best here, tough to photograph this by yourself

1. Drive vehicle and try to identify the specific area the windnoise is occuring in

2. Get a beer

[/IMG]

3. Get a crisp new bill. Open the door, place bill between door and seal

[/IMG]

4. Close door on bill



5. Tug on Bill.

[/IMG]
If it does not move seal compression is good in that area. Go to another point and repeat. If it slides easily , you need to improve seal compression in that area. NOTE: Before making adjustments make sure that the door has not "sagged" from design position. Look at the edge of the door header to see if it has the same gaps to the roof and rear or front doors as the door on the opposite side the vehicle.

These vehicles have weld on hinges
[/IMG]
and its possible for the door to sag or get bent out of position. If you suspect this is the case it is for a dealer or body shop to repair.

6. To create greater seal compression you simply need to place your knee against the lower part of the door trim panel
[/IMG]

then using both hands grab the top of the door header as shown and bend it slightly inboard.

[/IMG]

this is not really as hard to do as you might think. (Small guys and women do it for 8 hours a day in the assembly plant.)

7. Perform the dollar test again and repeat steps 2-6 again as necessary until you cannot easily move the dollar bill.

8. After your blood alcohol level stabilizes road test the vehicle. You may need to move the door header in other areas, but this technique does work.
Could you please send me that $100 bill so I can test mine? :thumbsup:
 

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2002 chevy trailblazer_lt
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899 Posts
Will do my best here, tough to photograph this by yourself

1. Drive vehicle and try to identify the specific area the windnoise is occuring in

2. Get a beer

[/IMG]

3. Get a crisp new bill. Open the door, place bill between door and seal

[/IMG]

4. Close door on bill



5. Tug on Bill.

[/IMG]
If it does not move seal compression is good in that area. Go to another point and repeat. If it slides easily , you need to improve seal compression in that area. NOTE: Before making adjustments make sure that the door has not "sagged" from design position. Look at the edge of the door header to see if it has the same gaps to the roof and rear or front doors as the door on the opposite side the vehicle.

These vehicles have weld on hinges
[/IMG]
and its possible for the door to sag or get bent out of position. If you suspect this is the case it is for a dealer or body shop to repair.

6. To create greater seal compression you simply need to place your knee against the lower part of the door trim panel
[/IMG]

then using both hands grab the top of the door header as shown and bend it slightly inboard.

[/IMG]

this is not really as hard to do as you might think. (Small guys and women do it for 8 hours a day in the assembly plant.)

7. Perform the dollar test again and repeat steps 2-6 again as necessary until you cannot easily move the dollar bill.

8. After your blood alcohol level stabilizes road test the vehicle. You may need to move the door header in other areas, but this technique does work.

An american drinking quebec beer ? damn i'm not a beer drinker, but all i can say i always thought it was funny seing my fellow friends down south drinking ONLY 3-4 beers from our side and get tipsy.....yeah yeah i know, ou beers packs a punch.....we have a new one at 11% alcohol...

but i do love my Coors.....when i do choose a beer
 

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2005 chevy trailblazer_ls
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re; Wind Noise

I just bought a used 07 Trailblazer LT and have the dreaded wind noise. Wish I saw this before purchase. Gonna go do the Dollar Bill test now. Problem only appears to be on the drivers side towards rear. Also have the wind over the driver sideview mirror issue. Will look into that as well. Otherwise love the truck. Hated the ride from a 03 Tahoe Z71. This should be better.
 

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2002 gmc envoy_sle
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46 Posts
wind noise

Just slide your cross members on your roof rack back to the beginning of your quarter window. On some trail or envoy they may have to be a little further.
The cross members make a wind disturbance and causes the doors to be sucked outward causes wind noise.
Dave
 

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2007 chevy trailblazer_ls
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11 Posts
I would also think about checking the alignment of your windows in their tracks, and check to make sure that the felted rubber around the windows is in good shape...I've had ppl come to me while I was working in an auto shop talking about wind noise and it had happened to be that their windows weren't aligned proper due to failing regulators, or after a regulator was replaced, the window wasn't aligned correctly...
 
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