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2004 chevy trailblazer_lt
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You're also talking a lot more money there compared to a vette servo.

By the way, you sure the LS1 fbodies came with these? I know my V6 Camaro didn't (but duh it was a v6), but I was fairly sure there were people upgrading to the Vette servo in their LS1 fbodies. I could be wrong...

LS fbodies came with them. I threw mine in the trash when I upgraded to the billets. $200 is not a lot of money. The vette servos are ok for those that aren't spirited drivers or tow. They were a necessary upgrade when I rebuilt the transmission in my Camaro. The 4L60E is a stout transmission when using the correct components with proper assembly.
 

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2002 chevy trailblazer_ls
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$200 is not a lot of money.
Maybe not to you. To others (like me) $200 is quite a bit.

They still cost a lot more than a corvette servo (only 13 bucks), which is still an upgrade from the stock servo.

And no, you don't "need" one of those $200 parts to be able to tow. Don't really need a corvette servo either to be quite frank. Yes, you can upgrade parts, which makes it better/stronger/etc, and some things more so than others (a trans cooler is important if you do a lot of towing for example), but how many people on this site alone tow all the time and don't have a $200 servo in their transmission? A trans cooler would probably do more good for towing than a servo ever would.

Look I'm not saying they aren't better than a corvette servo. I just pointed out the big cost difference, and I'll bet that most people don't "need" to spend more. If someone wants to, that's perfectly fine, but to claim it is necessary for these vehicles is a little off. They aren't fbodies that get drag raced ;)
 

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2003 chevy trailblazer_lt_ext
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Is there a part number for the servo motor? I've been calling local dealers around here and they can't find anything. Ebay ones charge $20 shipping for the $12 piece :rolleyes:
 

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2003 chevy trailblazer_lt
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31 Posts
I can't find any, but from what I have found dealer cost for it is through the roof. One guy on another site reported the dealer wanted $65 for just the piston, and extra for the rest.

This one "only" charges $12 for shipping.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/GM-700R4-4L60E-Corvette-Style-Servo-A74905BK-/370553794479?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5646ba2faf

Go to Oregonperformanceparts on eBay. I got all my parts from him great service and pretty good shipping. Oregon to Louisiana took a couple days. All come with direction. Ill look up the part number on my eBay history
 

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2002 chevy trailblazer_ls
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I agree and I believe I got my entire 4L60E kit from them (vette servo, Transgo SK-4L60E kit, Sonnax pistons, separator plate), but Glue is in Canada so shipping costs a lot more to him.
 

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2003 chevy trailblazer_lt
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Oregonperformancetransmission. Is the name I messed up last post

700R4, 4L60, 4L60E, 200-4R SPRING / HARDER 1-2 SHIFT

NEW .490 BOOST VALVE 4L60E O-RING STYLE 4L65E LS1 LT1


4L60E TRANSMISSION 1-2 ALUMINUM ACCUMULATOR PISTON SMALL PIN 4L65E 4L70E 4L75E


CORVETTE SERVO 700R4 4L60 4L60E E CAMARO TRANSGO 4L65E 4L70E 4L75E PONTIAC GTO +

He ships worldwide hope it's not to bad for ya.
 

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2004 chevy trailblazer_lt
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What are the other companies that offer parts for these transmissions? I don't remember seeing a response to the difference between the .490 and the .500 boost valves?

Also what would the shifts be like with the 1-2, 3-4, the boost valve and the PCM level 2 shift?
 

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2003 gmc envoy_sle_xl
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141 Posts
i could not tell you since i did not get the boost valve only the servo and im still waiting on my pcm to get here! i did mines with #3 level shifts and cant tell you yet how it will be like.but there is a thread here explaining how! do a search!!!
 

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2003 gmc envoy_slt_xl
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Just got done doing the Corvette servo, Superior Super Servo 4th apply piston & cover and TransGo servo mods. Have a few pointers and thoughts for those looking to do this mod.

-When dropping the trans crossmember leave one of the horizontal attach-bolts loosely in place to act as a pivot point.

-The stock servo cover fought tooth-and-nail before relenting and breaking free. I had a 2' crowbar propped against my shoulder and was pushing off the garage wall with my feet before it let out a mighty pop and compressed in.

-The servo cover will compress in quite a way before you can get the snap ring out. I kept thinking I had it in far enough, but the snap ring wouldn't let go until I had the cover compressed in 100%.

-The servo cover doesn't easily come out of the trans case. It'll take some wiggling, prying and words of encouragement.

-Once out, the Corvette servo swaps on to the stock servo assembly pretty easily. Take your time and ensure all springs and washers go back on properly.

-Reinstalling the snap ring will try your patience. Again, ensure the cover is compressed in as far as it can go. A small chunk of wood cut to length will hold in the servo cover nicely while you wrestle with the snap ring. Make 110% certain that it is fully seated around the cover. I had to remove and reinstall it a few times before all was good.

After all this, is the Corvette servo worth the hassle? YES! 1-2 shift is much firmer and faster, 2-3 seems a bit better too, 3-2 downshift will kick you in the tail nicely and converter lock-up is much faster and more pronounced (though the Superior 4th apply piston may have much to do with that).

All-in-all a great mod. Just go into it knowing what you may be in for and plan for the worst.
 

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So, I'm having a problem installing the outer metal spring clip after installing the corvette servo kit. I'm not able to get the end cap back in far enough to install the spring clip, regardless of how much pry-bar pressure I apply to the end cap. Question: Is the blue o-ring the final seal on the end cap? I have the red washer on the new inner corvette plate, and the blue o-ring as the final end cap seal. On the bench, I've noticed the blue o-ring is slightly larger in diameter than the red o-ring. The blue coating on the o-ring is beginning to fail (now black) after removing the end cap. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated!
 

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after i posted the question i googled it and found on other truck forums where they had done the same thing and after only 25k miles or so blowing apart the sun burst... honestly i have no idea what that is but they said it involved a rebuild.. think i'll just stick with the tune
I built transmissions for years -- I've had an occasional sun shell ream out - but that hasn't happened for years TTBOMK.

Worse yet ----> you can blow the 2nd gear sprag if you are unfortunate. I used to install the racing full-roller super hardened sprags and get away from the supposedly weaker, stock dogbone style that was used as OE.

Sadly - I put Trans-Go Racine Sprag in my K5 about 20 years ago and it never made it around the block and it grenaded the brand new racing sprag!

I was kinda pi$$ed. This was on a Sunday evening and the K5 HAD to be drive-able by Monday AM.... so I just put the stock sprag back in and it's been running every since.... and I'm not nice to my truck!

Right now, it's got a blown TCC sprag - and the convertor is just working like a standard unit w/o lock-up. Too much horsepower ... a stroker 350 - out to 383 with an Chet Herbert cam and Edelbrock lo-riser with a Q-jet.

If you ever tear it down for a rebuild, put in a Kevlar 2/4 band and use the Corvette servo AND springs! Then a Gil Younger 'Shift Kit" 2nd stage and you'll be happy. Be sure to use the hardened front pump rings too.
 

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So, I'm having a problem installing the outer metal spring clip after installing the corvette servo kit. I'm not able to get the end cap back in far enough to install the spring clip, regardless of how much pry-bar pressure I apply to the end cap. Question: Is the blue o-ring the final seal on the end cap? I have the red washer on the new inner corvette plate, and the blue o-ring as the final end cap seal. On the bench, I've noticed the blue o-ring is slightly larger in diameter than the red o-ring. The blue coating on the o-ring is beginning to fail (now black) after removing the end cap. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated!
Blue color is just to signify the different diameter o-rings. It isn't necessary to have the color intact - but any nicks or cuts in the o-ring. Use lots of Vaseline or Dr Tranny goop and it should slide in OK.

I just use a really big pair of Channel-Loc pliers, the lower jaw on the lip of the oil pan with the upper jaw in the center of the cap and just use it as a press to force the cover in.
 
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