Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum banner
1 - 20 of 43 Posts

·
Registered
2006 chevy trailblazer_ls_ext
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone reached 100,000 miles yet and changed their own spark plugs. I can find no threads for 5.3 or 6.0 liter engines using Search. I also have the Factory Service manual and it is little help. I call a Chevy garage and it is a 3 hour job at $80-88/hr. for labor alone plus cost of iridium tipped plugs at ~$8 ea. This is now in 4-6 years it will be more expensive when mine will need to be changed. The Driver's side does not look too difficult but the passenger side is a much different story.

Chris
 

·
Registered
2004 gmc envoy_slt_xuv
Joined
·
27 Posts
It's not to bad ... looks much worse than it actually is. Driver's side is pretty easy - only additional work there was to loosen the wiring loom bracket that attaches to the alt bracket for easier access to the front plug. As far as the pass side, I removed the airbox and washer tank (also easy to do) to gain better access. And disconnect the heater core coolant line bracket that mounts to the coil assy bracket so that you can move those lines around & outta the way as necessary. Took maybe 2-3 hours takin it easy to do.
 

·
Registered
2004 chevy trailblazer_lt_ext
Joined
·
8 Posts
Sorry to bring this up again...

Been reading here for quite a while and I have found very useful info. First time I have needed to post anything though.

For those of you with the 5.3L that have changed out your plugs, what have you found that works well? Any specific part numbers?

-As per the OP I still see comments for the 4.6, but not 5.3 owners.

Thanks, Bryan
 

·
Registered
2006 gmc envoy_denali_xl
Joined
·
13 Posts
Did mine today, thanks for the tips. One thought I had was it would have been a good idea to have additional Dex-Cool anti-freeze on hand. When you disconnect the Quick-Couplers for the heater core on the Passenger side, you'll loose some fluid before patching on a plugged hose to stop the leak. Also, when you remove the Windshield Washer tank, this will also leak from disconnecting the solenoids. I held those with my fingers and had a bucket ready to set the tank onto to drain it. After straining it through a coffee filter I was able to re-use the washer fluid. The Denali XL now idles perfectly smooth and responds very well. Used AC Delco Iridium Plugs and Magnecor wires I had bought for a prior GMC Truck. The Spark Plug Boots were straight, but they still work. Added a section of Split Loom on each wire for extra protection. If you're buying these new I do however suggest the 90 degree Plug Boots. I couldn't exchange mine so I decided to use what I had which will work. Saved about $380.00 from having the Dealer doing it, took about 4 hours taking my time. Thanks again for the tips on this, they really did help.
 

·
Registered
2004 gmc envoy_slt_xuv
Joined
·
691 Posts
Been reading here for quite a while and I have found very useful info. First time I have needed to post anything though.

For those of you with the 5.3L that have changed out your plugs, what have you found that works well? Any specific part numbers?

-As per the OP I still see comments for the 4.6, but not 5.3 owners.

Thanks, Bryan
Go with the Iridium Plugs, I did mine and used them, don't plan on going in there again soon.
 

·
Registered
2003 chevy trailblazer_lt_ext
Joined
·
13 Posts
I also found removing the air cleaner & washer tank helpful. Antiseaze on the spark plugs and electronic lube on the plug wire ends so they can be removed without pulling the ends off. Only 2 plugs that I had problems with passenger rear and drivers front besides pulling the ends off the plug wires as they seemed to be welded on. While you have the air cleaner off you might as well clean the throttle body as they start sticking with the carbon build-up on the engine side.
 

·
Registered
2007 buick rainier
Joined
·
661 Posts
I have done wires but not plugs. They are a bear, but you can reach the pass side through the wheel well. I did all of them without removing anything. As I did the wires I though how in the heck would I ever do the plugs. Of course for me it wasn't the wires but some major issues covered under warranty. By the way your 88$ per hour dealership labor rate is about what we paid in MN 20 years ago. Its well over $100 nowdays.
 

·
Registered
2005 chevy trailblazer_lt_ext
Joined
·
23 Posts
Changed plugs and wires yesterday, along with cleaning the throttle body and upgrading headlamps and blah blah blah...

Anyway, best advice I can give for the passenger side plugs is to do the 3 plugs closest to the cab through the passenger side wheel well, a lot easier, and do the last plug nearest the grill last. You have to remove the airbox and washer fluid box to get to the plug. I had a hell of a time removing the wire eventually using a pair of channel locks to force that guy out. I damaged the metal heatshield that covers the wire end, but managed to salvage it to use on the new wire. All plugs cam out fairly easy and I installed all of the new plugs with anti-seize and electric grease in the wire boots.

The driver side plugs were fairly easy and quick with the one closest to the grill needing the most time to change. Like someone above mentioned, remove the bracket that supports the bundle of wires and it's a lot easier.

Used AC Delco Iridiums and Wires.

I wouldn't want to do it again anytime soon, but it certainly wasn't too difficult.
 

·
Registered
2004 chevy trailblazer_ls_ext
Joined
·
49 Posts
I did mine some time ago. Had to remove the airbox and MAF, went through the fendwells for most of the plugs. I did not disconnect the coolant lines though. Made the mistake of thinking I could re-use the old plugwires. After ripping one in two, I had to get the wife to make an emergency run to the parts store.

One thing to watch: Before I sent the wife on the emergency run, I realized that the plugs given to me by Autozone, 2 months earlier were too long. Probably long enough to hit the piston. At any rate, I had already made one "emergency" myself.
 

·
Registered
2008 saab 9_7x
Joined
·
43 Posts
I replaced my plugs a few months ago. The only thing I would add is for the passenger side back two plugs. I found they were very easy to access through the wheel well after taking the right front tire off.
 

·
Registered
2006 chevy trailblazer_lt
Joined
·
721 Posts
My SEL is lit. Scan tells me I have an intermittant miss on cylinder #4.

Can someone tell me how the cylinders are numbered on this motor? Evens on one side and odds on the other? Or 1-2-3-4 down one side, and 5-6-7-8 down the other?

Also, just to be positively clear, which side is #4 on?

Thanks.
 

·
Registered
2005 chevy trailblazer_lt_ext
Joined
·
13 Posts
I wish that I had seen this a few months ago. I hired it done because I thought it was not possible. The guy put Champions in it, and I have already had to replace one of them, #7. I am worried about needing to do the others early. I put in an AC Delco 41-110 which I think is the iridium upgrade from platinum. I had heard that Champions weren't all that good, but this is the first time I've had a bad experience. NAPA sells Champion.
 

·
Registered
2006 chevy trailblazer_lt
Joined
·
721 Posts
rear of truck

8---7
6---5
4---3
2---1

front of truck
Thanks!

I figure I'll replace the plugs and the wires, and do a compression check on that cylinder just to make sure the problem isn't with the valvetrain.

The miss is only noticeable at idle, and seems to go away at higher rpms, which has me a bit concerned that it isn't the plug or the wiring. These DOD motors have been known to have valvetrain problems occasionally, or so I've heard.
 

·
Registered
2005 chevy trailblazer_ls_ext
Joined
·
5 Posts
VIDEO - How to change spark plugs 2005 Trailblazer - eesy!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhBebL0JeAs

A quick simple explanation of how to change spark plugs in a 2005 or later Chevrolet Trailblazer.

You don't need to be super handy to do this, and it will save you money!

* The only slightly difficult part is the removing the wire harness to get at the forward most spark plug. You just have to twist the white plastic piece so it slides into the black square hole and it will twist itself out. Then, you can remove the entire white piece by unscrewing it after the harness has been removed.
 
1 - 20 of 43 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top