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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've messed with audio for quiet a few years nothing major technical as others but enough to get around and know what I am doing, I took out rear Bose from my truck awhile back and tested them on My Onkyo receiver which is High Current receiver and takes low ohms 4ohms... tested it for sometime with the bose speakers and never got hot never shut off the receiver or said overload so my question is since I can bi-amp with my receiver and wanted to replace the front mid bass and 3 1/2" speakers, what kinda air space would I need for these speakers if I were to toss them into a box and make bookshelves from them? The Clarity I got from just testing the back 5 1/2" ones over my current bookshelves was so nice, so I'd like to attempt to use the fronts as well.. any ideas? Speically since there not a huge power hogging speaker I'd think they would sound semi decent if setup proper...

Thanks
 

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home audio and car audio are quite different. Based on what the experts have told me, it's something you shouldn't mix.

Furthermore, the factory "Bose" speakers are mucho-crapo, so I'd say buy a decent pair of home audio speakers and you should be fine.
 

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i have to agree its two diffrent things. though for subs ive seen people use them for home, and only certin subs. i was thinking about doing something with my old infinity kappa perfect.

if you need any ideas about home audio, like making your own speakers and speaker boxes check out parts-express.com, they have a lot of stuff on diy home audio.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
As mentioned to the car audio side of the truck they maybe crap, but they do seem to sound pretty solid when connected to my Onkyo and sure Home audio and car audio are 2 different animals, however general aspect behind them are quiet similiar other then ohm load differences they still operate under the same purpose.. I don't really mind the sounds of my bose in the truck either guess I am use to the 5 years of my stock system in the Cavalier which just sucked balls lol..

Anyway it's still something I'd like to tinker with, I know when I had my kicker comps they were able to give me approx box size needed to make them work, and with having receiver which states if other ohm loads are played over powering may shut down receiver for overload, but generally I don't over power my stuff to ever get it to that point...So if someone has ideas of approx box it would be great, if not meh time to tinker then... Hell I may just build a box to use for the truck anyway to make them portable for camping and what not, I can use them without cranking the system inside the truck...
 

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Lets just say this a speaker is still a speaker no matter if its in a boat, car, house etc. it is still a cone, a wire wrapped coil and a magnet. Now however it does get into some very specific differences when we get into certain areas.

A good example is the subs i just sold, they had been used in both home and car audio applications and excelled very well in both areas, just something they where not made to do like high wattage competition setups, or extreme low level like 20hz playing.

The main reason your bose speakers sound better off of the higher wattage onkyo home system is just that, its higher wattage. More power sounds better to the point the speaker can handle that given power. I have used several component systems for home audio with excellent results. I used custom built crossovers instead of the ones they come with though.

Once again it all falls under a speaker is a speaker, watts are watts no matter if they are coming from a 2000 watt 12 v amplifier or a 110v 1200 watt 5.1 surround system receiver. The wattage just depends on the volume level and the frequency being sent to the speaker. So no major differences in the speakers, just the way the setups are designed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Lets just say this a speaker is still a speaker no matter if its in a boat, car, house etc. it is still a cone, a wire wrapped coil and a magnet. Now however it does get into some very specific differences when we get into certain areas.

A good example is the subs i just sold, they had been used in both home and car audio applications and excelled very well in both areas, just something they where not made to do like high wattage competition setups, or extreme low level like 20hz playing.

The main reason your bose speakers sound better off of the higher wattage onkyo home system is just that, its higher wattage. More power sounds better to the point the speaker can handle that given power. I have used several component systems for home audio with excellent results. I used custom built crossovers instead of the ones they come with though.

Once again it all falls under a speaker is a speaker, watts are watts no matter if they are coming from a 2000 watt 12 v amplifier or a 110v 1200 watt 5.1 surround system receiver. The wattage just depends on the volume level and the frequency being sent to the speaker. So no major differences in the speakers, just the way the setups are designed.

Yep exactly what I am saying, my main plan is to run them off the Onkyo as it can be bi-amped so don't think I'd need to much in ways of crossover at least from what the Manual on my receiver says.... Who knows I could make something and it sound like crap but I have the summer off and Have nothing better to do then tinker with random stuff... I was looking at installing the infinity kappa stuff into the truck, so when I do this is when I would be tinkering with the bose/home audio type thing...but was looking for more insight. I use to run a 12" Eclipse Sub off home theatre using just a crapy 80 watt home theatre but had the box tuned to 30hz and even though only 80 watts it actually sounded nice, so I'd just imagine how much better it would have been with the full 300-400 watts it could have taken.

As for the link for parts express that does nothing in giving me an idea for air space based on the spec of the speaker, sure I can get parts from there but I don't think I need to as most stuff is available locally, unless parts express has that exact speaker that's in our truck to purchase and can give me parameters I need then?? I've used that site in the past for other lil projects comes in handy for relative matter...
 

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Being that current car audio migrated from home audio it is really not the different. Your car audio speakers will always sound better with a home receiver as you are getting cleaner power to the speaker. And current car audio speakers are built more rigid to assist in eliminating the additional distortion that you get in a mobile environment. A car speaker has to deal more with hot, cold and wind issues that home speakers usually don't see. The first generation Cerwin Vega subwoofers that a friend of mine purchased were the same speakers used in the cabinets for my bass guitar. And because he purchased them from a "car audio" store he paid almost twice the price of buying them from a musical instument shop. He was floored when we removed a speaker from his enclosure and mine and compared the model numbers from the back of the speakers. A friend of mine has all Kicker speakers in his home theater and it will blow you away with the clarity and everything is in the wall so no enclosure clutter to be seen. I was contemplating the same but didn't want to rip out all of the drywall and start building the enclosures in between the studs. At least not at this time, maybe later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
When looking around at the Infinity Kappa stuff, I noticed they sell a plate speaker setup with tweater/mid already mounted, was thinking that would work pretty nice as well for home audio, just design a box and away you go.. Not to mention has a pretty high db sn of 95ish I think it was...so fairly efficient speaker from what it seems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Pretty nice looking setup...not a bad price either if you build the boxes yourself, which don't look to bad to do.. I'd assume you don't have to create the datto however maybe just secures it/makes it feel abit more solid?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
i just saw that they have a cnc machine cutout for the enclosure, so the only thing you really need to do is build the crossovers, which look realitivly easy ....
Yeah I saw that as well, but mdf isn't expensive at all... you could easily have it cut and although u won't have it datto'd or u could if you prefer, prob make it cheaper then 100$ then shipping costs, I noticed they said some items may be shipped with charge... none the less 119$ for the "recession" kit for all u need except wood is pretty solid deal.
 

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when i was 14 one of my friends started driving. was the 1st friend to drive. i had 2 12 technics that i didnt want anymore, so i sold them to him for 50$. he found a car amp for 50$ so we hoocked them up in his 81 VW rabbit 4spd desil! worked for about n hour n as we were driving i smelled smoke......then i saw fire! good thing im dumb and grabbed both flaming boxes and tossed em!
 

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Yeah I saw that as well, but mdf isn't expensive at all... you could easily have it cut and although u won't have it datto'd or u could if you prefer, prob make it cheaper then 100$ then shipping costs, I noticed they said some items may be shipped with charge... none the less 119$ for the "recession" kit for all u need except wood is pretty solid deal.
yeah a sheet is like 30, but if you dont have the table saw or are not great with a jig, plus the circle cutouts can be tricky. its not like subs and you can just half ask it cause its just going in the trunk. you want something nicer. plus the roundover on the angle piece, so if you dont have the tools to do it. but you will sill need a drill and some carpentry clamps. one thing i dont like is the recess, i think it will make it difficult when your trying to get the final piece in.

i thought about contracting someone to do it for me locally for $100. (you know, support the local economy :D)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
yeah a sheet is like 30, but if you dont have the table saw or are not great with a jig, plus the circle cutouts can be tricky. its not like subs and you can just half ask it cause its just going in the trunk. you want something nicer. plus the roundover on the angle piece, so if you dont have the tools to do it. but you will sill need a drill and some carpentry clamps. one thing i dont like is the recess, i think it will make it difficult when your trying to get the final piece in.

i thought about contracting someone to do it for me locally for $100. (you know, support the local economy :D)

I def wouldn't have any issue with local either, specially if it insures you can get it done right the first time lol...
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Ha yeah if i ordered the box as well from them with shipping costs and brokerage and what not, I would be far better just making the box locally.. 161$us to have it shipped to Canada.. that's insane so I think I will def be looking local to have the box made if I got this route.
 
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