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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just like it says. I got the starter unbolted but can not get it out. Space is too tight. What should I do? Is there a east way of getting it out?
 

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2006 saab 9_7x
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Here's the instructions from the GM service information.

Starter Replacement (5.3L Engine)

Removal Procedure

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise and suitably support the vehicle.
3. Remove the rear steering gear crossmember.
4. Remove the wire harness from the wire harness retaining clips on the transmission oil cooler line bracket.
5. Remove the transmission oil cooler line bracket bolt.
6. Remove the right transmission cover bolt.
7. Remove the starter bolts.
8. Move the starter toward the front of the vehicle, and remove the transmission cover.
9. Remove the starter solenoid heat shield.
10. Tilt and rotate the starter in order to pass the starter between the transmission oil cooler lines and the engine oil pan.
11. Remove the starter solenoid nut (2).
12. Remove the starter lead (1) from the solenoid stud.
13. Remove the battery positive cable nut (2).
14. Remove the battery positive cable (1) from the starter solenoid.
15. Finish removing the starter from the vehicle.

Installation Procedure

1. Begin installing the starter between the transmission oil cooler lines and the engine oil pan.
2. Install the battery positive cable (1) to the starter stud.
3. Install the battery positive cable nut (2).
4. Tighten the nut to 9 N·m (80 lb in).
5. Install the starter solenoid lead (1) to the solenoid stud.
6. Install the starter solenoid nut (2).
7. Tighten the nut to 3.4 N·m (30 lb in).
8. Install the starter solenoid heat shield.
9. Slide the starter toward the front of the vehicle.
10. Position the transmission cover to the transmission.
11. Position the starter to the engine.
12. Install the starter bolts.
13. Tighten the bolts to 50 N·m (37 lb ft).
14. Install the right transmission cover bolt.
15. Tighten the bolt to 9 N·m (80 lb in).
16. Install the transmission oil cooler line bracket bolt.
17. Tighten the bolt to 9 N·m (80 lb in).
18. Attach the wire harness to the wire harness retaining clips on the transmission oil cooler line bracket.
19. Install the rear steering gear crossmember. Refer to Rear Steering Gear Crossmember Replacement .
20. Lower the vehicle.
21. Connect the negative battery cable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
wow are u kidding me? what i was thinkin about doing is just cutting downpipe and pulling it through where the exhuast was. then when its all done take it to this local shop and have them weld it back on. why does this have have to happen to me? WHY ME LORD??? :sadcry:
 

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2006 saab 9_7x
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I kid you not.
Although I'm lucky enough to have never had this job come to me as a GM tech, the labor time guide shows an I6 starter replacement paying 0.6 hrs, the starter replacement for the v8 pays 3.2 hrs. :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
thanks man. im going to try that and see what happens. if it doesnt work, im cutting. :woot: ill keep u posted and let you know what happens. somethings telling telling me that im not going to get this done tomorrow. i have it on ramps now. it actaully doesnt sound that bad but we will see when i get back under there. and where is the rear steering gear crossmember located?
 

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and where is the rear steering gear crossmember located?
Rear Steering Gear Crossmember Replacement



1. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle .
2. Remove the 4 front steering gear crossmember rear mounting bolts.
3. Remove the 10 rear steering gear crossmember mounting bolts.
4. Remove the left converter heat shield.
5. Remove the rear steering gear crossmember from the vehicle.

Installation Procedure



1. Install the rear steering gear crossmember to the vehicle.
2. Install the left converter heat shield.
3. Install the 10 rear steering gear crossmember mounting bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the rear steering gear crossmember mounting bolts to 50 N·m (37 lb ft).
4. Install the 4 front steering gear crossmember rear mounting bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the front steering gear crossmember mounting bolts to 50 N·m (37 lb ft).

5. Lower the vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
ok so i finally got my starter in and i didnt exactally go by oem. i did everything else the same like taking off the cross member and taking the removing the bolt to move the lines but rather taking the starter out with the gear facing down, remove it backwards so u can move it around and wiggle it past the bell housing. you might have to lift the engine up a lil bit. i had a friend put it in while i pryed up on the hearders on the pass. side to lift he engine a little bit. well i hope that helped anyone out
 

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2003 chevy trailblazer_lt_ext
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5.3 Starter Replacement

I am glad to say my No Start problem was the starter. With the new starter in place it cranks like crazy.
Unfortunately during installation, the 3 wires pulled out of the plug in connector located just above the starter and now the engine cranks but won't run (SES) light is on.
Haven't a clue what the sensor is above the starter, Knock sensor maybe?
Help!
I managed to get enough slack in the Harness to get the pulled end out from under the Tblzr so I can graft in a new connector without laying on my back in the snow.
Question is, are new connectors available?

Help!
 

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gmc envoy_sle_xl
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envoy starters blow!!!!!!!!!

i wanna say one thing i joind this group to say one thing that i love my envoy until right ****en now when i attempted to take out that god dam starter i tried everything from takeing out the steering support jacking up the tranny everything next step take out the y pipe holy **** what did i do wrong i followed the directions this blows!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! and no im not just a fly by back yard mechanic either i just never did a starter on an envoy why couldnt they have kept the starter like the 350s i would have rather struggeled with a 50 pound starter than delt with this bull ****! any thoughts please let me kno :bonk: :bonk: :hissy: :bonk: :bonk: :bonk: :bonk:
 

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2003 chevy trailblazer_lt_ext
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Thanks for procedure

:)I started to have starter issues and found this thread. It took 3 hrs to remove and install the new starter. Wife is very happy I didn't spend the money to have someone else do this and I saved about $500! Thank you!
 

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2006 chevy trailblazer_ss_3ss
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How the heck are you guys getting the tranny line bracket unbolted? I can't get a wrench back there, and it's driving me crazy! Thanks.
 

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If I remember correctly, I used a box end wrench. I was able to make a small turn, reposition the wrench and repeat that process until the bolt was out. I hope this helps.
 

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2006 chevy trailblazer_ss_3ss
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Well, I got the bolt out. Went to Lowes and bought a racheting long shaft box end wrench. Now, I can't get the starter out because the hole between the frame and tranny bell housing isn't big enough. I'm going to have to lift the transmition up a bit with a jack I think. I sure wish GM would have made this a little more user friendly. The same engine in a pickup is the most simple job in the word- the thing falls out on it's own once the bolts are gone. Frustrating...
 

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Job done. What a pain!

My observations on the job:

GM engineers should be shot. :suicide:

Don't forget to put the heat shield back on the solenoid before installing the starter.

Jacking up the transmission a bit helps a lot.

When you go get your new starter, make sure you get the short one. They might try to sell you a longer one, and it will make life difficult if you get that one. Very little room up there.

Doing the job by yourself, with only floor jacks, sucks. :( Get your buddy to help you. Or grow a third arm. Two arms just ain't getting it done without a fight.

Be careful. There's an important sensor right above the starter, and if you crush it, the engine will not start.

Ok, I'm going downstairs now and eating a pound of spegetti to get my energy back.
 

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Starter Does Come out

Follow all of the steps in the instructions copied from the manual in this thread. I had to turn the starter around in the space before removing it. Once you have the front of the starter (bendix end) facing the front of the car lower the starter between the trans lines and the block. You will have to pry the transmission lines away from the engine quite a bit to get the starter between the lines and the engine block.

Then I tilted the rear end of the starter between the engine and trans toward the rear of the car, that's why you remove that bracket. Solenoid positioned to the top of the starter. Pry on the lines to get the starter flange end out of the hole.

Takes quite a bit of wiggling and prying of trans lines.

Went with an O'Reily reman starter. Pulled the original apart and did not look bad. Pulled the rear cap (brush end) of the starter motor and cleaned the commutator. Reinstalled and it started the engine when I bolted it back up to engine. Did not want to risk it so installed the reman starter anyway.

It's a tricky job, even with my HR8000 two post hydraulic lift and the car 5' in the air. Glad I installed that hydraulic lift in the garage.
 

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2003 gmc envoy_slt_xl
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V8 Starter Change

Changed the starter in 3 hours this weekend. that was taking it easy with a couple short breaks.

I followed the instructions at the beginning of the post. however, I did not have "4 front steering gear crossmemember Rear mounting bolts" don't know what those are/were, never removed them. I did remove the 10 in step 3 of the rear steering gear cross-member. there is a trick to that. I did not remove the heat shield on the drivers side protecting the fuel? lines. after unbolting, and rotating the member out of place. i pulled the driver side end out first, and pushed back (to the side) the heat shield to allow enough clearance to forcibly remove the cross member.
putting it back in was impossible at first. then I found if I put it in a certain way, it fell up into place with NO effort. it is a C shaped piece of steel. So I put the bottom of the C up unto the frame memeber that comes in and then rotated the cross-member to curl the C up into the pocket (at first I had the open side of the C pointing up and tried to wedge it up there, no-go). then it is sitting wrong way in the place it needs to be. it is an arched cross member, at first you want to just flip it up into place, but the arch doesn't clear the tranny (bell housing?). but if you rotate it 270 degrees the opposite way, it goes right into place. nice and easy for me anyway.
I may never do this again, so I hope this helps others. We need to share as we learn. I think I remember the sequence right...

On th starter itself. I did not have to deviate from the instructions. unhooking the tranny cooling line / wire harness mount was a little difficult, but patience paid off, (plus my arms/wrists are not large so that definitely helped) I did have the plastic shield off under the oil pan, so this allowed my other hand to reach up directly below instead of only from behind the fram cross-member into the starter area. moving the starter forward helped to get the flywheel plastic cover plate off. unhooking the 12V relay bolt and then the main 12V supply bolt was a little difficult. had to pass the starter part-way out from the area over frame cross member and beside the tran-cool lines. first the main 12V line to the starter, then it could be manipulated out a little further for the solenoid/relay 12V line. then the large flange where the long starter mount bolts are was a little hard to pass across the frame cross member and around the tran-cool lines and through. but with a zig-zag, up-down, rotating path, it (mine did) came out without any special lifting of engine/tranny or other special things. It just takes a little back and forth and patience and then it pops through. (kinda like of of the welded together horseshoe chain and ring puzzles that finnally just works).

Putting the starter back in was not too bad. was very difficult to get the wires remounted on the blind side of the starter as I pushed that end back into the area first. eventually got it, but was hard as the ring connector for the 12V main had a side tab that fits into a little slot on the side of the starter (to prevent that wire from twisting-moving??). I had to use a small mirror and flashlight to manipulate it into position until I could really tighten down on the bolt.
(another post mentioned pulling the starter down beside the block, maybe I could have accessed the wire connectors a little easier that way??? you should read all the posts and put tothegher a best-pratice to try). before getting the starter all the way back up in there, I put the solenoid heat sheild back on. After the starter was back in place, the next hard thing was to get the wire harness and tranny cooler lines remounted. I could not get one wire harness back into it's original snap together holder, so I zipped tied it back into place within a few mm's.

All-in-all, a real pain, but if I can do it in 3 hours, then hopefully anyone can do it. Ha dot use all ratchets for leverage and access (1/2, 3/8, 1/4" drives) most bolts were 12,13,15 mm's (8 for relay bolt and to disconnect battery). had truck up about 18" on 4 jack stands. no special tools. your experience may vary, but on this '03 envoy SLT V8, no issues/surprises under there.

hope this helps, sorry if it is wordy.

-todd
 

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2008 chevy trailblazer_lt
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Thanks for posting this, saved me a lot of aggravation!

Here's the instructions from the GM service information.

Starter Replacement (5.3L Engine)

Removal Procedure

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise and suitably support the vehicle.
3. Remove the rear steering gear crossmember.
4. Remove the wire harness from the wire harness retaining clips on the transmission oil cooler line bracket.
5. Remove the transmission oil cooler line bracket bolt.
6. Remove the right transmission cover bolt.
7. Remove the starter bolts.
8. Move the starter toward the front of the vehicle, and remove the transmission cover.
9. Remove the starter solenoid heat shield.
10. Tilt and rotate the starter in order to pass the starter between the transmission oil cooler lines and the engine oil pan.
11. Remove the starter solenoid nut (2).
12. Remove the starter lead (1) from the solenoid stud.
13. Remove the battery positive cable nut (2).
14. Remove the battery positive cable (1) from the starter solenoid.
15. Finish removing the starter from the vehicle.

Installation Procedure

1. Begin installing the starter between the transmission oil cooler lines and the engine oil pan.
2. Install the battery positive cable (1) to the starter stud.
3. Install the battery positive cable nut (2).
4. Tighten the nut to 9 N·m (80 lb in).
5. Install the starter solenoid lead (1) to the solenoid stud.
6. Install the starter solenoid nut (2).
7. Tighten the nut to 3.4 N·m (30 lb in).
8. Install the starter solenoid heat shield.
9. Slide the starter toward the front of the vehicle.
10. Position the transmission cover to the transmission.
11. Position the starter to the engine.
12. Install the starter bolts.
13. Tighten the bolts to 50 N·m (37 lb ft).
14. Install the right transmission cover bolt.
15. Tighten the bolt to 9 N·m (80 lb in).
16. Install the transmission oil cooler line bracket bolt.
17. Tighten the bolt to 9 N·m (80 lb in).
18. Attach the wire harness to the wire harness retaining clips on the transmission oil cooler line bracket.
19. Install the rear steering gear crossmember. Refer to Rear Steering Gear Crossmember Replacement .
20. Lower the vehicle.
21. Connect the negative battery cable.
 
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