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The PCV system is not working properly and as a result there is a positive pressure present rather than a vacuum.

Read this thread:


Good Luck!
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The PCV system is not working properly and as a result there is a positive pressure present rather than a vacuum.

Read this thread:


Good Luck!
Thanks, that provided a lot of useful info but I guess I'm still confused as to how to proceed. If it's apparently not venting do I need to pull the PCV valve and replace it, just clean it, is there a different area that could cause blockage? All I got is that i got some sort of problem related to the PCV
 

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First, there is no PCV valve. None. Nada. Zip. There is a PCV system, but no valve.

Second, what you need to do is to remove the rubber hose on the driver's side and spray or pour in some Berryman's B-12 Chemtool. the B-12 is potent!!! It is several orders of magnitude stronger than Seafoam, so do not even waste your time trying Seafoam because it won't work. Don't use Gumout. Use Berryman B-12 Chemtool.

After you've introduced the Berryman's B-12, let it work for a bit and then stick some stiff but soft wire into the opening and try and break up any gunk you feel. There is a small opening into the internal passages of the engine and you want to try and open it up if it is clogged (sort of like a sewer line. You have to go by feel. Anyway, after you've stirred stuff up introduce more B-12 in order to dissolve/dislodge/break-up any crud still present.

After a couple rounds of the Berryman's B-12, start the engine and see if you can feel a slight vacuum. If you do, success. If not, do another round or two of the B-12 and trying to get more crud out using the wire.

Good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
First, there is no PCV valve. None. Nada. Zip. There is a PCV system, but no valve.

Second, what you need to do is to remove the rubber hose on the driver's side and spray or pour in some Berryman's B-12 Chemtool. the B-12 is potent!!! It is several orders of magnitude stronger than Seafoam, so do not even waste your time trying Seafoam because it won't work. Don't use Gumout. Use Berryman B-12 Chemtool.

After you've introduced the Berryman's B-12, let it work for a bit and then stick some stiff but soft wire into the opening and try and break up any gunk you feel. There is a small opening into the internal passages of the engine and you want to try and open it up if it is clogged (sort of like a sewer line. You have to go by feel. Anyway, after you've stirred stuff up introduce more B-12 in order to dissolve/dislodge/break-up any crud still present.

After a couple rounds of the Berryman's B-12, start the engine and see if you can feel a slight vacuum. If you do, success. If not, do another round or two of the B-12 and trying to get more crud out using the wire.

Good Luck!
That's the whole solution, if that's it awesome, things are never that easy. But where is this hose on the drivers side? This is what Im seeing on my drivers side engine block
 

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Actually, it is above the EVAP system Purge Solenoid pictured.

I'm attaching 2 pictures with the hose circled with a yellow line.
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Gas Electrical wiring Cable
Motor vehicle Yellow Gas Machine Auto part
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
To introduce the B 12 can I simply remove the top part of the rubber hose and pour it down the hose? The location on the engine is difficult to reach to pour in a fluid
 

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Yes, or spray it in. B-12 is also available in an aerosol can.
 
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That hose can be a real pain to get off! There is a plastic nipple on the intake manifold that extends at least an inch into the top of that hose. And that hose is made of some pretty stiff rubber!
If you look carefully at the bottom of the hose in the first pic that chem_man posted, you will see that is held in place with a small spring clamp, the same style that GM used on radiator hoses. That clamp is bonded to the hose.
When I cleaned the PCV system on my '04 TB and the wife's 'TB, I used a pair of small needle nose locking pliers and got in there and opened that clamp. I was able to work the hose off the much shorter nipple on the bottom, then it just slid off the long nipple on the top. I was then able to clean the hose and both nipples with a pipe cleaning brush and compressed air.
I removed the spring clamp from the hose and installed a worm style hose clamp, then reinstalled the hose.
I tried to work the top of the hose off that long nipple and finally said "Forget this!" That's when I came up with the plan I just outlined. Next time I need to clean the system, I just have to loosen that clamp and pull the hose off. Don't forget to clean out the hose on the right front top of the engine, underneath the resonator.
That's my story and I'm stuck with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
That hose can be a real pain to get off! There is a plastic nipple on the intake manifold that extends at least an inch into the top of that hose. And that hose is made of some pretty stiff rubber!
If you look carefully at the bottom of the hose in the first pic that chem_man posted, you will see that is held in place with a small spring clamp, the same style that GM used on radiator hoses. That clamp is bonded to the hose.
When I cleaned the PCV system on my '04 TB and the wife's 'TB, I used a pair of small needle nose locking pliers and got in there and opened that clamp. I was able to work the hose off the much shorter nipple on the bottom, then it just slid off the long nipple on the top. I was then able to clean the hose and both nipples with a pipe cleaning brush and compressed air.
I removed the spring clamp from the hose and installed a worm style hose clamp, then reinstalled the hose.
I tried to work the top of the hose off that long nipple and finally said "Forget this!" That's when I came up with the plan I just outlined. Next time I need to clean the system, I just have to loosen that clamp and pull the hose off. Don't forget to clean out the hose on the right front top of the engine, underneath the resonator.
That's my story and I'm stuck with it.
No clamp on my hose oddly. I just grabbed and pulled and it came off both the upper and lower with little problem!

Now that being said I went through about 4 cap fulls yesterday of the B12. It's been driven for about 40 minutes across two trips and after I got to work and checked the hose today there's dirty fluid in it, so is it just keep repeating?
 

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Have you used some stiff wire to remove any built up crud?
 

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OK. The hitting the wall sounds correct. Are you able to get any crud out of the passageway?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
OK. The hitting the wall sounds correct. Are you able to get any crud out of the passageway?
Didnt feel like any crud or buildup. It did come out with some very light brown dust coloring on part of it which i can also see a bit of in the hose but no actual gunk.
 

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Well, I would say your PCV system is cleaner than it was and is likely breathing freely. Just check and make sure there is no chocolate milkshake like stuff under the oil cap (or 710 cap). Sounds like you did the job right!

Congrats & Good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well, I would say your PCV system is cleaner than it was and is likely breathing freely. Just check and make sure there is no chocolate milkshake like stuff under the oil cap (or 710 cap). Sounds like you did the job right!

Congrats & Good Luck!
Hmmm, well I'm still getting a fair amount of oil being introduced in to the system every time I drive it. The hose on the passenger side was especially dirty. here's what it looked like when I ran B12 through that hose.

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Should I pour B12 in the the resonator at this hose connection? System seems far too dirty to be clean and breathing correctly
 

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I would make sure the hose on the passenger side is not full of crud. Remove it and clean as necessary. I would not pour B-12 directly into the resonator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I would make sure the hose on the passenger side is not full of crud. Remove it and clean as necessary. I would not pour B-12 directly into the resonator.
I did, that picture of all the dirty fluid was from the passenger hose. So what else causes oil to run through the system. I do feel like theres a tiny bit of vacuum from the oil dipstck when I put my finger over it but its tough to tell.
 

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Is the engine currently consuming oil? How much do you have to add every 1000 miles or so?

Trying to figure out if your engine is currently using oil or if it oil from years gone by that has collected and is now draining out of the resonator.

I do believe a slight vacuum is good!
 
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