[02PuterBlazer]

Hey guys hopefully you can help me on this one.. yesterday I replaced the exhaust manifold gaskets due to an annoying leak.. while doing so the cam actuator solenoid was in my way so I rotated it clockwise out of the way (is it suppose to rotate? Is it adjustable or something??) after finishing I rotated it back into position. Now the truck bogs down when you try to accelorate and runs generally crappy.. If I unplug the solenoid it runs and accelorates much better.. Do I need to buy a replacement? I'm not sure what I did to cause this..

 

[Robert1101]

First, welcome to the site. You should fill out the UserCP above on the big blue line. It sounds like the cam actuator solenoid does need to be replaced but wait for some more input. Have not taken mine out so I am not sure about the rotating.

 

[tblazed]

Hey guys hopefully you can help me on this one.. yesterday I replaced the exhaust manifold gaskets due to an annoying leak.. while doing so the cam actuator solenoid was in my way so I rotated it clockwise out of the way (is it suppose to rotate? Is it adjustable or something??) after finishing I rotated it back into position. Now the truck bogs down when you try to accelorate and runs generally crappy.. If I unplug the solenoid it runs and accelorates much better.. Do I need to buy a replacement? I'm not sure what I did to cause this..

Not sure why yours is running bad now, but on my 2002 the Cam actuator solenoid does rotate around. In later versions they made a "D" shape in the clamper that holds it in place so it can't turn. I've noticed no difference having it with the connector straight up, or angled back. I do know they are sensitive to oil quality and have fine screens that can get plugged. If it's not working properly the computer should set a code and the CEL should come on, and maybe go into reduced power mode too.

 

[Blazernut]

Check the connector and see it its soaked in oil. Clean it out if it is and get it nice and dry then replug and see how it runs. If your connector is totally soaked you may need a new solenoid.:m2:

 

[eeehabt]

Hi,
I have a few suggestions for you:

1- If you unplugged the solenoid, disconnect the battery for at least 30m. The PCM needs to learn the solenoid again. It happened with me with an electronic part on my truck. I wanted to check if my friend's part is faulty, so I installed it on the truck and it didn't work. I returned mine and it also didn't work. I disconnected the battery for 30m and it was OK.

2- get a scanner and check the reading of pre ignition. I'm not sure what the reading should be at neutral, but it mostly will be around 10. If it isn't, let someone rotate the solenoid while you are watching the reading, and let him stop when it reaches 10.

3- Coincidence happens. It might be clogged injectors that went wrong at the minute you fixed the manifold.

4- Air leak from hoses or manifold gasket. Check for leaks and unusual sounds or hissings.

I hope I was of a help to you.

 

[02PuterBlazer]

Hi,
I have a few suggestions for you:

1- If you unplugged the solenoid, disconnect the battery for at least 30m. The PCM needs to learn the solenoid again. It happened with me with an electronic part on my truck. I wanted to check if my friend's part is faulty, so I installed it on the truck and it didn't work. I returned mine and it also didn't work. I disconnected the battery for 30m and it was OK.

2- get a scanner and check the reading of pre ignition. I'm not sure what the reading should be at neutral, but it mostly will be around 10. If it isn't, let someone rotate the solenoid while you are watching the reading, and let him stop when it reaches 10.

3- Coincidence happens. It might be clogged injectors that went wrong at the minute you fixed the manifold.

4- Air leak from hoses or manifold gasket. Check for leaks and unusual sounds or hissings.

I hope I was of a help to you.

1. Tried disconnecting the battery... it clears the codes for a few mins.. thats about it

2. Need to get my hands on a scan tool..

3. Doubtful since it runs almost normal if the solenoid is unplugged.

4. See above

I wish I had a scan tool

 

[eeehabt]

Hi,
scan tools are cheap. Use google to search for one. It costs around 200 Dollars.
I hooked up my scan tool to my truck. The normal ignition advance DE reading at neutral is between 12.5 and 15.

As long as you have codes, You have to know what they are. Maybe they have something to do with your problem.

 

[Chewy1576]

You could pick up a Scan Gauge II for $159 from Amazon with $7 overnight shipping. Reads codes, plus displays ACTUAL sensor data, not just what the pretty needle points at. It will tell ignition advance too, as well as others. Great little unit!!!

http://www.amazon.com/ScanGauge-Com..._1?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1245693182&sr=8-1

 

[02PuterBlazer]

also how does the actuator come out? Does is simply pop out after you remove the 10mm bolt and the clip? I took the bolt and clip off and tried to lightly pull it out but wasn't sure if that's how it comes out so I didn't try too hard..

 

[eeehabt]

also how does the actuator come out? Does is simply pop out after you remove the 10mm bolt and the clip? I took the bolt and clip off and tried to lightly pull it out but wasn't sure if that's how it comes out so I didn't try too hard..

Yes. that's how it comes out. I have the Haynes repair manual, and read in it for your problem. It does't say anything about how to adjust it. On the other hand, it mentions some critical details about it. Here what it says:

"The camshaft position sactuator solenoid is sent a pulse-width modulated 12-volt signal from the PCM. The signal on-off time determines the amount of engine oil that flows through the cam phaser advance or retard passage. The cam phaser is attached to the exhaust camshaft and hydrolically advances or retards the camshaft from 0 degrees to 25 degrees. This con=tinuous phasing of the exhaust camshaft results in a wider torque range, and eleminates the need for an EGR valve."
For removing:
Remove the bolt.
Twist and pull.

That's all.

This manual doesn't give any hints about adjusting the solenoid after returning.
So sorry.

 

[payner1018]

Does anyone have a part number for the camshaft actuator? I cannot find one at the local parts stores and was trying to avoid dealership.

 

[springbuck]

Part number for camshaft actuator

Hope this is the Number
12602516
VALVE,CM/SHF POSN ACTR SOL
01
1
*
*
Click
$107.93 $0.00

Springbuck

 

[firebear]

most part houses have a scan tool you can rent or borrow if you scan it in the parking lot atleast thats the way it is here in oklahoma

 

[41michael]

The solenoid made by some companies can't be rotated or it brakes the wires internally. It'll need replaced and the cam and crank sensor need to be relearned. Most times the solenoid doesn't throw a check engine light for many fails. Also it may not code for a solenoid failure. Instead it'll code for both cam and crank sensors first. BOTH SENSORS (cam and crank) is the tell tale. Good luck. That solenoid is almost always a cam/crank sync/phaser problem.

 

[macboy]

Just bumping this up for all of us still driving and loving our Trailblazers. I was chasing a rough idle and this was the culprit. I can't believe it but it was. I cleaned the throttle body, changed the plugs, tested the coil packs and then finally tried this. Voila!

Thanks TrailVoy and all the above who pointed me in the right direction.

 

[TrkrJohn]

Camshaft Solenoid Actuator

Does anyone have a part number for the camshaft actuator? I cannot find one at the local parts stores and was trying to avoid dealership.

Go to rockauto.com and key in solenoid actuator and your vehicle info. Much better pricing and very quick shipment. Just replaced mine about 2 weeks ago.

 

[NEXT_LEVEL!]

1. Tried disconnecting the battery... it clears the codes for a few mins.. thats about it

2. Need to get my hands on a scan tool..

3. Doubtful since it runs almost normal if the solenoid is unplugged.

4. See above

I wish I had a scan tool

DUDE GO TO ANY PARTS STORES AND THEY WILL SCAN YOUR TRUCK FOR FREE ON THE SPOT!