Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
2004 chevy trailblazer_lt
Joined
·
218 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So, I decided to change my differential fluid the other day. I loosened all 10 bolts, let the fluid drain out, and then went back to remove the bolts so I could check out the gears and clean the magnet. Well, sure enough, the last bolt I removed, the one at the very top, broke off. I've tried using "easy-out" things, but I don't think they're going to get it (this thing was HARD to turn, and I've been trying for 2 days and it hasn't moved). What are my other options? I really need to take this 2k miles the day after Christmas... :)
 

·
Registered
2006 chevy
Joined
·
113 Posts
try applying some heat from a torch and easy out, but dont break that easy out or you will be @#&^ed
 

·
Registered
2004 chevy trailblazer_lt
Joined
·
218 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Do I Really need that 10th bolt in there? I mean, it is right at the top. If I just tighten up the other 9, will it be okay? Well, at least until it warms up in a few months and I can try to figure something out? :undecided
 

·
Registered
2007 chevy trailblazer_lt
Joined
·
678 Posts
If you cant easy-out it with some heat, then drilling out the bolt and re-threading will be about the only other option.
 

·
Registered
2005 chevy trailblazer_lt
Joined
·
421 Posts
You can always drill it out. Other option is to put it all back and take it to a shop to get it out. I have done that before with a water pump.
 

·
Registered
2007 chevy trailblazer_lt
Joined
·
678 Posts
Could you get away without it? Probably, for now. I would personally go mad knowing its there though.

I guess it broke off flush to the case as well?
 

·
Registered
2003 gmc envoy_slt
Joined
·
331 Posts
I looked under my 03 and it looks like you might be able to put a small C-clamp in the area of the broken bolt. This might give you some time to take the planned trip and explore options later . To be honest I didn't look that closely at the mating surface so I might completely be off-base.
 

·
Registered
2002 chevy trailblazer_lt
Joined
·
14 Posts
Try spraying it with penetrating oil every couple of hours. After a day or two, it should loosen up enough to get it out. Even then you might need to use a little heat to convince it to come out. If there was an issue during original assembly, then drilling it out will be the only other effective option. (you could always change the rear end)

As for driving without it since the bolt is at the top, you might get away with that from the perspective that the fluid might not leak too bad. But remember, you also need to worry about water getting inside. Road spray (if it rains) can allow some water to seep inside, which would not bode well for the gear lube.
 

·
Registered
2003 chevy trailblazer_ls
Joined
·
1,708 Posts
If the threaded hole goes all the way through it might thread itself all the way when you are trying to drill it out, other answer is to use a left hand turn drill and the heat of drilling might break it free before you use the easy-out. If the hole is at the very top you might not leak anything without the bolt in the hole. Thin bead of sealer on VERY clean metal should help as well.

Finally got the big 500
 

·
Registered
2004 chevy trailblazer_lt
Joined
·
218 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Yeah, it broke off pretty much flush with the surface. I know it might help to heat it up with a torch to get it out, but somehow I see me with a torch, up under the car right beside the gas tank as making things a Whole lot worse than they are now. And my Dad thinks it may be cross threaded (yeah, it's in there that bad). We've sprayed some Deep Creep (Throttle Body Cleaner 'round these parts) on it, but it didn't do anything. I guess that, for now, I'm just going to put it all back together and hope for the best. I mean, there's another bolt like 2" away from the whole on each side; that should provide Plenty of force to make a tight seal. The fluid isn't under any pressure, so it's not going to force its way out or anything. The only thing that really bothers me is that I can't check the fluid level on it without getting up under it and taking the fill hole out. But I guess I'll have to do that periodically, just to be safe.

And, hrddrv, do you remember how much it cost to have it removed? I know it varies a lot from place to place, but a rough estimate would be nice, as that's probably what I'll end up doing.
 

·
Registered
2005 chevy trailblazer_lt
Joined
·
421 Posts
And, hrddrv, do you remember how much it cost to have it removed? I know it varies a lot from place to place, but a rough estimate would be nice, as that's probably what I'll end up doing.
I want to say it was $50 but that was about 10 years ago and on a 76 catalina. The bolt was very easy to get to and took the guy like 5 minutes. They used an easy out of some sorts.
 

·
Registered
2002 chevy trailblazer_lt
Joined
·
6 Posts
I took a look at the rear dif in my t/blazer and it should be an easy fix. If you jack the truck up by the axel and put safety stands under the frame, allowing the axle to droop, you will have a pretty clear shot at drilling it out. Make sure to center punch it and using a nice new drillbit, you can get it for sure. I agree that you will get away with leaving for now till you can spend more time on it. Make sure to use a liberal amount of sealer at the top of the cover after you do the rest of the bolts up. That should keep the fluid in and the water out. Good luck
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top