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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently converted my rear license plate lights to 194 LEDs (along with interior lights and reverse, turn, and brake lights). I had to wire resistors in line with the turn signal LEDs but not the reverse or brake LEDs and all the LEDs work fine except for the license plate lights. The fuse for the plate lights blows immediately upon turning on the exterior lights (not DRLs). Trying to troubleshoot, I put the OEM 194s back in and the fuse still blows.

Has anyone had the same problem or similar? Or have any ideas what the problem could be?
 

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If the plate lights worked before you started the mod, it must be something you did.
Go back and recheck everything you touched, somewhere there is a short to ground.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I went back and rechecked everything. The fuse blowing is fuse 14 in the rear fuse block. The only two components attached on the neg side of fuse 14 are the license lamps (brn = pos; blk = neg)and the left rear brake light (brn = pos; blk = neg). No brn wires were harmed in the making of this mod. I only wired a resistor inline across the lt blue and blk wires (lft rear turn). I can't see how that would affect the license lamps.
 

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That fuse also protects the left rear tail-light (I am sure that's what you called brake light) as well. Did you change anything in that area?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That fuse also protects the left rear tail-light (I am sure that's what you called brake light) as well. Did you change anything in that area?
I just wired the resistor across the lt blue and black wires. And looking at the wiring diagram, that shouldn't have anything to do with the license lamps. I'm thoroughly frustrated.
 

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Benjamin, this is a very simple circuit. The left tail light shares the fuse with the plate lights.
The left tail light shares the bulb with the left signal light.

Do you see anything common Here?

Go back and re-check the wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ah, crap. I completely glossed over that. Perhaps I spliced into the wrong lt blue wire, seeing how one lt blue goes to just the turn lamp and the other goes to the turn lamp as well as the brake lamp connected to fuse 14. Now where are my wire strippers...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok, so I spliced the resistor into the other lt blue wire and it still blew the fuse, and the infamous hyperflash returned. So I removed the resistor completely and the fuse obviously didn't blow.

So Any recommendations on what I can do to save the fuse? Perhaps a strategically placed resistor? I'm obviously far from being an electrician.

Or is it a compromise? Get rid of hyperflash and lose license lamps, or save license lamps but deal with hyperflash?

I'm stumped... :bonk:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I can't imagine anything tying pos. to grn. at any time--direct short!
Well it says to do that because the LEDs don't have enough internal resistance to imitate a filament so wiring a resistor across the LED simulates a regular filament bulb being there so there's no hyperflash.

The LEDs themselves work fine the way I have the resistors wired.
 

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According to V-LEDs, the resistor should go across the signal positive and ground.

http://www.v-leds.com/BlinkerWarning-Fix/Turn-Signal-Fix/6-OHM-50W-2-BULB-LED-p4783296-1-3.html
I think you need a separate resistor in the wire to the license plate lamps. I'd have to see a diagram of what is connected to what that is causing the fuse to blow. Auto wiring can be strange. A neighbor had a Chevy car that when a tail light burned out the cruise control quit working.
 

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Before I can toss an opinion, I need to know the resistance value of the resistor.

I can tell you, that a low resistance value will overload the circuit and blow the fuse. Well, I guess I don't need to tell you that, you just found that out :crackup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The resistors are 6 Ohm / 50W. There are four total (1 each side, front and rear) wired across each LED light.

And I think I'm just going to take the resistors off and deal with the hyperflash until I can figure out how to fix it because I don't feel like getting a ticket for having no license lamps or tail running lamps.
 

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Each resistor would draw 2 amps. I think that would be 4 amps per side plus the lamps. Maybe the flasher draws some amps, too.
 

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The resistors are 6 Ohm / 50W. There are four total (1 each side, front and rear) wired across each LED light.
I've not installed any automotive LEDs, so I have no experience with this mod.

But, I have many years experience with resistors. 6 ohms, as tallcorn said, will draw 2, 2.5 amps. The LEDs draw nothing (for all intents). Not sufficient current to pop a 10 amp fuse.

Connecting across the LED appears to be the correct connection (I wasn't sure, so I looked it up) http://www.eautoworks.com/product-Led-33226.htm

So, somehow a short was introduced while the connections were being make. A short that was removed when the resistor was removed.

I am sorry, but from here it looks like an error was made.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks everyone for your help, but I just traded my truck in for an 09 SS, so it's no longer an issue.

That is, until I try putting them in the SS, haha :duh:
 
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