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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, is anyone able to help me figure out what is still required to make this thing start???

I am installing a DEI Hornet 569T (with DEI 455G Interface) into my 2002 Bravada (which should be the same as some of your TrailBlazers).

DEI Hornet 569T Wires

Blue – (-) 200mA Status Output <> Blue (Remote Start) wire of 455G (below)
Violet/White – Tach Input <> White wire of ins. cluster harness (tested good)
Brown – (+) Brake Switch Input <> White wire of brake switch harness (tested good)
Gray – (-) Hood pin Input <> Hood pin that came with starter (tested good)
Black – (-) Ground <> Chassis Ground (tested good)
White/Blue – (-) Remote Start Activation Input
Green/Black – FAD/RAP Cancellation
White – (-) Parking Light Flash Output
Purple – Starter Output <> Yellow (Starter) wire of Column Harness (below)
Red – (+) 12V Input <> Red/White (+12V) wire of Column Harness (below)
Orange – (+) Accessory Output <> Orange (Acc 1) wire of Column Harness (below)
Pink – (+) Ignition Output <> Pink (Ign 1) wire of Column Harness (below)
Red – (+) 12V Input <> Red (+12V) wire of Column Harness (below)
Pink/White – (+) Ign2/Acc2 Output <> White (Ign 2) wire of Column Harness (below)

DEI 455G Interface Wires

Red – (+) 12V Input <> Red/White (+12V) wire of Column Harness Wires (below)
Black – (-) Ground <> Chassis Ground (tested good)
Green – (-) Door Trigger Output
Green/Black – (-) Arm/Lock Input
Blue/Black – (-) Disarm/Unlock Input
Gray/Black – (+) Door Trigger Input
Blue – (-) Remote Start Input <> Blue (200mA Status Output) wire of 569T (above)
Violet – Data Bus Output <> Purple wire of OBD2 harness

Column Harness Wires



Everything seems to turn on when I push the remote start transmitter, but the motor never cranks. I figured if it is a security system related issue, then if I put the key in the ignition in the Off position or in the Acc position it would disable the security and allow it to crank, but it still wouldn’t work. (If I put it the key in the On position then the remote start module turns itself off.)

ALSO… I figure I will eventually have to add a relay to connect the (Acc 2) wire of the Column Harness to the Accessory Output of the 569T in order to get all the accessories to come on when the car remote starts, but for the time being, I just tried giving (+) 12V from the Column Harness <to> Gray (Acc 2) wire of the Column Harness and attempted to remote start it (with and without the key in), but it still won’t work.

Any advice or suggestions are very much appreciated!!! (I really do not want to have to take this thing half installed to an authorized DEI installer!)


***Thanks goes to Rhino 66 for the image above***
 

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2004 gmc
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OK, I assume you see the difference in the buttons now. Didn't it give out a warning "This is a duplicate of the same message you have just posted in the last five minutes?" or something like that? I thought we had a protection against accidental duplicates. :undecided
 

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2005 chevy trailblazer_ls
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Does it power everything up just once or three times?

Did you cut your starter wire?

Make sure your grounds are good and that the hood pin wire is not grounding.

Also, check the brake input wire and make sure there isn't 12v on it during remote start activation. This will shut it down before it cranks.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited by Moderator)
OK, I assume you see the difference in the buttons now. Didn't it give out a warning "This is a duplicate of the same message you have just posted in the last five minutes?" or something like that? I thought we had a protection against accidental duplicates. :undecided
Actually it didn't because I was modifying it each time. Like I said I thought it was a preview.

Does it power everything up just once or three times?

Did you cut your starter wire?

Make sure your grounds are good and that the hood pin wire is not grounding.

Also, check the brake input wire and make sure there isn't 12v on it during remote start activation. This will shut it down before it cranks.
Everything does the power on cycle three times as though it tried to start but didn't. Mean while the starter doesn't crank once. I even checked the voltage at the Starter wire of the Column Harness and it is indeed getting voltage right after everything turns on.

I did not cut the starter wire. Was I supposed to? All connections I made were simply by cutting the insulation off of the existing wire (about a half inch) and soldering the new wires to them.

Grounds are good, hood pin definitely isn't grounding, and brake wire isn't giving me any voltage. (I triple checked these ;-)
 

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2006 chevy trailblazer_ls
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did you connect any of these wires on the bypass??
Blue/Black – (-) Disarm/Unlock Input
Gray/Black – (+) Door Trigger Input

if you connect the door pin wire , my remote start would not start when door was open

i connected the disarm wire to the green wire on the drivers door master switch
 

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Discussion Starter #8
did you connect any of these wires on the bypass??
Blue/Black – (-) Disarm/Unlock Input
Gray/Black – (+) Door Trigger Input

if you connect the door pin wire , my remote start would not start when door was open

i connected the disarm wire to the green wire on the drivers door master switch
No, I didn't connect those wires (yet). I plan too but I just want to know this thing is going to work.

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I am under the impression that all the wires I have not yet connected are for safety and convience only and not having them connected will not keep the remote start from starting the vehicle.

Thank you for your continued help and support!!!
 

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Everything does the power on cycle three times as though it tried to start but didn't. Mean while the starter doesn't crank once. I even checked the voltage at the Starter wire of the Column Harness and it is indeed getting voltage right after everything turns on.

I did not cut the starter wire. Was I supposed to? All connections I made were simply by cutting the insulation off of the existing wire (about a half inch) and soldering the new wires to them.

Grounds are good, hood pin definitely isn't grounding, and brake wire isn't giving me any voltage. (I triple checked these ;-)
Then this is a Passlock II issue. It isn't seeing the correct resistance at the correct time.

You do not need to cut the starter wire, it has a built in anti-grind feature already in the vehicle. Some people do cut the wire and then hook the output from the remote starter to the wrong side.
 

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There will be a 20ga yellow, black and white group of wires running together in your column harness. These are the passlock wires. Cut the yellow wire in half and strip the sheathing from the black wire. Get a digital mutli-meter and measure the resistance between the black wire and the key side of the yellow wire. Turn the key to the "on" position and measure that resistance then turn key to "start" and measure that resistance. If they are different, use the start position resistance value.

You will then need to buy resistors or a potentiometer to create the same resistance value and a relay. Wire the relay as follows:

Pin 85: ign
Pin 86: remote start status output from remote starter (blue wire)
Pin 87: key side of cut yellow wire
Pin 30: goes to the black wire, but you need to insert your resistor inline on this wire.
Pin 87a: vehicle side of cut yellow wire

The passlock wires may also be yellow, orange/black, red/white.
 

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Thank you very much Audiojunky!!!

I will give this a shot and let you know if it works!
No problem. I was trying to find a diagram for you, but I couldn't locate one. Sadly, the instructions I gave you are from memory...I've done a lot of these.:bonk:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
you nee the bypass module not to expensive find oneon ebay for less than 40 bucks
It sounds like something I can build fairly easily using parts found at Radio Shack for much less than $40, but I will look into buying one before doing anything.

THANKS!
 

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I know this is super old but just to let you know.. this is the easiest bypass out there when installing a remote start/alarm and keyless unit. This does pretty much everything for you which knocks out alot of wire work etc. It will controll the door locks, the bypass, door sense etc. and a few more, I just don't want to list it all. I installed one 4 years ago when I was still working in an install bay. You cant go wrong ;):thumbsup:


http://www.amazon.com/Fortin-GMDAPK3-Passkey-Passlock-Bypass/dp/B0012CRGXE
 

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Sorry to bump an old thread.

I just purchased a Hornet 570T remote start, which is essentially the same as the OP with the door lock feature added in. I haven't purchased the DEI 455G Interface yet, am I correct that I will need this?

I have read through this thread, and the install seems pretty strait forward enough with the wiring breakdown on the first post. Are all the connections listed correct? There were a couple that didn't have a listed connection, why is that?

I am confused as to the post about the relay. What is the need there? I have plenty of experience wiring stereo's, but never a remote start. With a stereo the worse case is you have to put your ipod in your ears, with this I see worse case as the vehicle not starting again. I just want to make sure I understand the process before I start cutting wires.

Thanks in advance for the help.
 
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