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The only aftermarket fan clutches I would use are the ones from Hayden/Four Seasons, Hella/Behr, or the NAPA Temp line one. Yes, they do cost more $$$, but depending on where you purchase them they can come with a lifetime warranty, and they come from quality manufacturers.

The problem with inexpensive non-name parts is that one, they are often made with inferior quality materials, two, there is little to no quality control in their manufacture, three, there is often no warranty despite what the online seller states, and four, often times they are defective right out of the box.

I have the NAPA Temp line fan clutch in my 2004 TrailBlazer and it's worked flawlessly since being installed 6 years ago. If it goes bad, I'll take it and the receipt to the NAPA store where I purchased it and get a new one under it's lifetime warranty.
 
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2002 Pewter ls with automatic trans. 4x2, gray cloth interior.
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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
The only aftermarket fan clutches I would use are the ones from Hayden/Four Seasons, Hella/Behr, or the NAPA Temp line one. Yes, they do cost more $$$, but depending on where you purchase them they can come with a lifetime warranty, and they come from quality manufacturers.

The problem with inexpensive non-name parts is that one, they are often made with inferior quality materials, two, there is little to no quality control in their manufacture, three, there is often no warranty despite what the online seller states, and four, often times they are defective right out of the box.

I have the NAPA Temp line fan clutch in my 2004 TrailBlazer and it's worked flawlessly since being installed 6 years ago. If it goes bad, I'll take it and the receipt to the NAPA store where I purchased it and get a new one under it's lifetime warranty.
I decided to buy an Amazon clutch, not disclosing the brand as I may or may not have done already. I did look up Hayden/Four Seasons, Hella/Behr brands and reviews and they had average 3 star ratings and even Dorman beat them in the ratings. But it boils to the performance and reliability of course.

Any who. I'll report back when I decide to install this new clutch.
 

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Good Luck!
 
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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Good Luck!
These TB have have mind of their own. I been driving for an hour and I notice the temp was low. Plugged the scanner and read 188!

Seemed like the fan decided to work Normal

Hptuner will not connect to my PC so I just ordered the Bluetooth wireless dongle that you suggested and will be here tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
got the hptuner to work and did a log. However, the fan was working perfectly so IDK... Wish I had the old log but I had to reset the PC and lost the file.

What I did notice is the IAT being high @ 130 or so and it did come down once I got on the road.

The fan speed was either at the desired speed or beyond, most of the time it was beyond. I briefly seen it drop below but then picked back up quickly.

On my last log, majority of the time the fan speed was under the desired speed and that included during my driving.
*Also I have ZERO codes and ZERO freeze frames. NICE lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 · (Edited)
Today, the day after yesterday I decided to run ho tuners for data. What do you know fan back to same old habits. After putting some gas the temp dropped to 188 or so. Good thing I finally got those on log.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Tire Wheel Car Vehicle Plant


It is fixed!! No more excessive heating.

Took the entire fan shroud off to do the job, just wish I had the new serpentine belt as I keep forgetting to buy.

For the real test, I drove through the Santa Monica mountains and before I would easily heat up to 217 but now 208 tops! You can hear and feel air getting sucked in from the front grill.
 

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Great! Thanks for letting us know!
 
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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Will report back of this aftermarket clutch fails and after a 6 month update. The weather was absolutely beautiful in the mountains, just wish I had my dog with me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 · (Edited)
Well. lol here's an update and I need to fix it quick cause I don't want to stress any gasket.

I found a small coolant dollar coin size puddle.

Yesterday night after a 6 hour cooldown I drove to the market 20 minutes away and had the Wireless bluetooth elm connected and was watching the temp. From the cold start I was reaching up to 217 then drop 215 while parked or at stop light, this happens after a cold start. Once it lowers to 210/212 ish after 30 seconds of driving, the temp drops as low as 197 and high of 212 work PERFECT.

I swapped the Thermostat months ago to rule out another issue and was purchased from oreillys NON GM as they didn't have it in stock and I couldn't wait. It sorta seem like this thermostat is partially stuck or I have air in the coolant.

It was a pain to take out that thermostat and I'd do again if I need to. ACDelco GM Original Equipment is $40 on amazon

I forgot to mention I lost about half gallon of coolant when I took the top radiator hose off and did a refill but forgot to turn the HEATER ON.....
 

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OK, you have a small leak. Odds are it is due to a loose hose clamp. Go around and tighten them up slightly.

As far as the thermostat goes, since it is working, leave it alone and don't worry about changing it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
OK, you have a small leak. Odds are it is due to a loose hose clamp. Go around and tighten them up slightly.

As far as the thermostat goes, since it is working, leave it alone and don't worry about changing it.
Them clamps are on there pretty good and kept it on the same spot as before. I have to lift it with the jack tomorrow as It seemed that leak was almost on the back side of the engine. No leaks today though as I did keep an eye on that.

first thing tomorrow is to get rid of any air and then inspect from underneath.

i'm super close to get this thing 100% and it's fighting..... Or just my lack of skill and knowledge lol.
 

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It's just trying to test you patience one less time. Another thought since you mentioned this time that the leak was almost on the back side of the engine - carefully look over the heater hose assembly that is part rubber, part steel tubing, and where it goes behind the engine block. If you find that hose assembly to be leaking, do not even attempt to remove it. You have to drop the transmission in order to remove & replace that line. What you will want to do instead is to get a long section of heater hose and hook it up to the engine block behind the alternator, and then route the hose over to the passenger side of the firewall where the other end of the rubber-steel tubing heater hose assembly goes.

Also, the dripping you noticed could be do to one of the quick connects at the fire wall has begun to degrade and is leaking here and there. I've placed a link to the Dorman website for the quick connectors.


There are also metal versions of these available from Dorman and I know NAPA has them as well.

Since you have an EXT, you also need to keep an eye on the coolant lines that go to the passenger side at the very rear where the other heater core is. Those (coolant lines and/or heater core) have been known to leak as well.

Good Luck!
 
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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
It's just trying to test you patience one less time. Another thought since you mentioned this time that the leak was almost on the back side of the engine - carefully look over the heater hose assembly that is part rubber, part steel tubing, and where it goes behind the engine block. If you find that hose assembly to be leaking, do not even attempt to remove it. You have to drop the transmission in order to remove & replace that line. What you will want to do instead is to get a long section of heater hose and hook it up to the engine block behind the alternator, and then route the hose over to the passenger side of the firewall where the other end of the rubber-steel tubing heater hose assembly goes.

Also, the dripping you noticed could be do to one of the quick connects at the fire wall has begun to degrade and is leaking here and there. I've placed a link to the Dorman website for the quick connectors.


There are also metal versions of these available from Dorman and I know NAPA has them as well.

Since you have an EXT, you also need to keep an eye on the coolant lines that go to the passenger side at the very rear where the other heater core is. Those (coolant lines and/or heater core) have been known to leak as well.

Good Luck!
No leaks today and just got back from doing the do. It's like 50-55 degrees and took almost an hour just to get the temp to 190. I started to rev it at 1500rpm until i got 205 degrees but it would cool back down to 203. There was time the temp wouldn't move up and had to wait at least 5 minutes to see a difference. I did have the heater at full blast too.

Thought I was ready to go so I took it down the residential street a 1/4 mile @ 25mph and pulled into a park and got the temp spike at 219 degrees. Waited a few minutes and temp was going from 212-215. If I start driving it at least 2 miles the temp would go back to the normal 205-210.


Going to try this again in an hour or so. I'm kinda on the fence the thermostat might be an issue but IDK.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Update: Gone back outside and reconnected the No Spill Coolant Funnel Kit. Temp outside is now 70 degrees and coolant was at 178 according to the ELM.

The TB warmed up really easy this time and I was also squeezing the lower radiator hose to try and get any air out. The temp risen up to 206 and I still continued to squeeze the hose. Everything is working fine for the moment but I will wait until tonight to retest the temperature from cold start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
For comparison' sake, here is a recent graph of my 2002 4.2 showing oil and coolant temps. Note the time in the X axis.

View attachment 58036
Thanks. What software are you using to capture this? I just purchased the Bluetooth elm and don't want to haulin the hptuners and laptop for this.
 

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I use several Apps depending what I am doing. For collecting data Car Scanner Pro is my go to, this is from Car Scanner Pro. With the proper user input Torque Pro can do some things no others can. There are many parameters that do not come with either of these apps. I have a thread on additional data parameters and how to install/use them here...
More PIDs for Torque App
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
I use several Apps depending what I am doing. For collecting data Car Scanner Pro is my go to, this is from Car Scanner Pro. With the proper user input Torque Pro can do some things no others can. There are many parameters that do not come with either of these apps. I have a thread on additional data parameters and how to install/use them here...
More PIDs for Torque App
I been using car scanner as well but not the paid version, still trying to figure out which would be best.

Non of the apps display a full list of features unless I missed it.
 

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I been using car scanner as well but not the paid version, still trying to figure out which would be best.

Non of the apps display a full list of features unless I missed it.
You didn't miss it. Torque Pro has a set for GM vehicles that brings a fair amount. It has to be loaded in the setup pages though. I believe Car Scammer doesn't have anything to add for our TrailBlazers. I have a download-able file for use with Torque Pro that adds a bunch of parameters specific for the TrailBlazer, at least the 2002 4.2 since that is what I have. Desired and actual cooling fan speeds, desired and actual cam phaser angle, accelerator pedal and throttle position stuff, and so on. The parameters can also be used in Car Scanner and OBD Fusion but the equations need small modifications.
 
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