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2004 buick rainier
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Just installed a Python 533P and everything seems to be working except remote start. I have programmed the unit for real tach and set the diesel timer from wait to start to 15 sec. still no remote start. Im using a XK01
 

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2002 chevy trailblazer_ltz
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60 Posts
Wow that answer all my answers completely, my other question what kind of relay is need for the front windows module.?
What did you want to do with the front windows? Auto roll up/down/vent? A DEI 530T would be the solution. Take note that you need 2 of these if you want to control all 4 windows.

As for your autostart problems, start by installing the DEI Pulse Timer Relay IF YOU HAVE A BACKUP BATTERY (DEI 520T) installed.
 

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2002 chevy trailblazer_ltz
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Just installed a Python 533P and everything seems to be working except remote start. I have programmed the unit for real tach and set the diesel timer from wait to start to 15 sec. still no remote start. Im using a XK01
If connected properly, your car will output a number of light flashes to indicate the problem of your remote start failure (in your owners manual). Stand outside of your car, and wait for those flashes. Post back what you find.

You guys shouldn't have any problems if you installed per this thread....The OP doesn't seem to have any.

You guys should also SOLDER all connections. I've seen remote start failures happen due to those wire taps not making a complete connection. Connect just the alarm portion of the Alarm unit first, test that it's working (all triggers, domelight, locks, etc.), then move onto the remote start.
 

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2008 gmc envoy_sle
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48 Posts
What did you want to do with the front windows? Auto roll up/down/vent? A DEI 530T would be the solution. Take note that you need 2 of these if you want to control all 4 windows.

As for your autostart problems, start by installing the DEI Pulse Timer Relay IF YOU HAVE A BACKUP BATTERY (DEI 520T) installed.
Well i have the same module I used for the back windows but i was told i may need a relay, just curious does anyone know the correct way to wire the module to the relay.

and for the 520T I will buy that this week to check if that fix the issues (do have back up)
 

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Northwest Chapter
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11,824 Posts
Good to know about the 520T setting the alarm off for low voltage, Ill double check that.

Has anyone figured out why the DLPKGM sets off a trunk trigger even when Ive disabled everything I can find in the programming? I bought a BitWriter and still cant use it normally without worrying it will randomly go off.
 

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2002 chevy trailblazer_ltz
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60 Posts
Well i have the same module I used for the back windows but i was told i may need a relay, just curious does anyone know the correct way to wire the module to the relay.

and for the 520T I will buy that this week to check if that fix the issues (do have back up)
No need for a relay. Just make sure it's connected properly. I've never heard of anyone using a relay for it. Make your connections at the MOTOR on each door.
 

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2002 chevy trailblazer_ltz
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60 Posts
Good to know about the 520T setting the alarm off for low voltage, Ill double check that.

Has anyone figured out why the DLPKGM sets off a trunk trigger even when Ive disabled everything I can find in the programming? I bought a BitWriter and still cant use it normally without worrying it will randomly go off.
For you guys wanting to try using the digital pulse timer to interrupt the backup battery, connect as follows:

Black/white to GWR on alarm (use diode if needed, band facing alarm)
Red to 12v constant fused at 5a
Black to ground
Yellow to DEI 520T module blue wire
Orange to alarm instant trigger blue wire
Brown is not used.

There shouldn't be a direct connection from alarm instant trigger to DEI 520T blue wire. Remember, you are interrupting the instant trigger. Use diodes if you have more than 1 sensor with the instant trigger, bands facing the sensor.

How did you connect your trunk trigger? where is it connected to? Did you also connect it to the blue instant trigger along with the 520T? Did you diode isolate all sensors connected to the instant trigger? The instant trigger is also a trunk trigger. So anything connected to this lead will appear as a trunk alarm on your remote. Start eliminating all other sensors connected to this lead to test, add them back 1 by 1 with diodes.
 

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Northwest Chapter
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Crap the whole reason I went with the setup I did was to avoid messing around with diodes and complicated wiring. I can do it, I just really hate it and it takes more time.

What annoys me is I have reassigned the instant trigger to NOT be the truck trigger using my BitWriter. Why does it keep thinking its still a trunk trigger?

Ill play with it next week over Thanksgiving when I have time to pull the dash apart again. Might just ditch the dang 520T as its way more hassle than its worth currently.
 

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2002 chevy trailblazer_ltz
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60 Posts
Crap the whole reason I went with the setup I did was to avoid messing around with diodes and complicated wiring. I can do it, I just really hate it and it takes more time.

What annoys me is I have reassigned the instant trigger to NOT be the truck trigger using my BitWriter. Why does it keep thinking its still a trunk trigger?

Ill play with it next week over Thanksgiving when I have time to pull the dash apart again. Might just ditch the dang 520T as its way more hassle than its worth currently.
How many other sensors do you have connected to the blue instant/trunk trigger? It could be another sensor triggering this lead. Can you do a process of elimination to find the problem area? If you only have the 520T connected to this lead, then you can do without diodes. Just connect the pulse timer relay as indicated above. Keep in mind that if you are using GWA wire, you will want to diode isolate that lead as well IF you are adding more than one sensor. Not hard, just annoying.
 

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Northwest Chapter
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How many other sensors do you have connected to the blue instant/trunk trigger? It could be another sensor triggering this lead. Can you do a process of elimination to find the problem area? If you only have the 520T connected to this lead, then you can do without diodes. Just connect the pulse timer relay as indicated above. Keep in mind that if you are using GWA wire, you will want to diode isolate that lead as well IF you are adding more than one sensor. Not hard, just annoying.
I have a tilt or glass break sensor connected as awer posted in his initial writeup. Not both, I cant remember exactly how I did it back in Feb. I know I dont have any diodes at all.

Im using the included wire for the sensor connection.
 

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2002 chevy trailblazer_ltz
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60 Posts
I have a tilt or glass break sensor connected as awer posted in his initial writeup. Not both, I cant remember exactly how I did it back in Feb. I know I dont have any diodes at all.

Im using the included wire for the sensor connection.
So it sounds like you do have at least one additional sensor to the 520T which makes a total of 2 sensors on the instant trigger. You NEED to use diodes if that is true. Are you using the GWR lead at all? You will want diodes on that as well.

If your alarm is randomly going off with a trunk trigger being at fault, I would suspect it's a problem with whatever sensors you have going to the instant trigger lead; could be bad sensors as well. but it does sound lke the voltage is dropping triggering the 520T.

when you are down there messing with stuff, check voltage on your main battery, and the backup battery. They should be around 12.5v and monitor voltage loss AKA parasitic draw. Those DEI backup batteries are complete ****; they drain quick and don't keep the system armed long enough in the event of a theft. I replaced mine with a unit from a UPS 12v/7ah.
 

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2005 buick rainier
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22 Posts
Great Write up!!! Even though its over 2 years old.

Everything works great except I do not get any parking lights. At night the "automatic Headlights" come on with a remote start, but during the day...nothing. Do I need to wire the H1/11 wire directly to the parking lights?
 

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2003 trailblazer_lt
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9,856 Posts
Everything works great except I do not get any parking lights. At night the "automatic Headlights" come on with a remote start, but during the day...nothing. Do I need to wire the H1/11 wire directly to the parking lights?
If you want them to come on during a r/s, then yes.

The (-) park light wire is a little tough to find. In the big harness that runs across the bottom of the dash, there are 8 brown wires. One of those goes to ground when you turn the park lights on. That's what H1/11 will go to, and the H1/11 jumper should be set to negative (factory setting).
 

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2005 buick rainier
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22 Posts
Perfect, thanks! I'll do that, this thread was super helpful.


2008 G8 GT
2005 Rainier
2011 Fusion
 

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2006 chevy trailblazer_ls_ext
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3 Posts
i also have the parking light problem, now i know how to fix that. but a problem i cant find any thing about is the remote start works perfect, the alarm works perfect but if the alarm is on and we go to start it the alarm is triggered by the door. i couldnt figure out which wire to use for dome light supervision under the rear fuse box. what i found was a gray/black but theres two of then, one in each plug on the BCM. by the way its a 2006 ext trailblazer and we are using a python 533 and GMDLBP
 

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2005 chevy trailblazer_ls_ext
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330 Posts
I also have a problem that someone on here may be able to help with. I installed the 5701 with xk09. Everything works fine so far but if I arm the alarm the battery dies overnight. If I manually lock the doors and use the remote start and unlock keypad in the morning the battery is fine. Can anyone help with suggestions that may be causing the battery draw.. I know I'm going to have to probably test connections but was hoping someone would have an easy answer.
 

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2005 chevy trailblazer_ls_ext
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