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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
04 tb ls, manual dual climate control. Last year the air was not blowing cool so I hooked up guages and had some extremely high pressures, thought freon was low but found out I need the fan/clutch/ electric combo. Winter came and I forgot about it. Now my problem is similar to the other listed but a little different. The passenger side is blowing cold but the drivers side is warmer, why couldn't it be the other way LOL. I took the actuator out to see if there was any issue with the door itself but the door seems to be moving fine with no binding. I put the door all of the way to cold and eliminated the actuator to see if it would blow cold and it did NOT. So it looks like the actuator is good now what? It does change temp from hot to cold on passenger side and drivers side heat is great but just not cold enough. I plan on replacing the fan clutch tomorrow but any ideas on the A/C?
Thanks in advance
brains
 

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2003 chevy trailblazer_ls
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Welcome to the site.
You said extremly high pressures,,, what was the high and low pressures?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I evacuated the system, replaced the orifice tube, and recharged to the proper amount. The only fan that was running was the clutch, not the electric portion of it. Usually when the a/c comes on shouldn't the fan kick on? If not you could also get high pressures. I had a scan tool hooked up and the fan was demanded on but not working. This is why I think the fan is one problem. As far as the warm air out of the drivers vent, even though the blend door is moving what could cause this. As I stated earlier I removed the actuator and still had warm air while the blend door was in the full cold position.
Thanks
 

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2003 chevy trailblazer_ls
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You may need to fill out the USERCP at the top of the page. Exactly what do you have, the I-6 or V-8. World of difference because the fan on the I-6 is not electric. If the fan on the I-6 is not moving at all then you might have a problem.
 

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2004 gmc
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The fan is indeed EV, but it doesn't go any faster with AC on. The PCM just makes sure it goes at 100% of engine RPM at idle even if the engine coolant doesn't need cooling. At last the 2005 PCM update to support the new fan clutch design did that.

For more details:
http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthread.php?t=19604

You said a scan tool says the fan isn't getting up to commanded RPM? Then you have a clutch or fuse or relay problem.

And if you have manually moved the driver's temp door, and the airflow isn't cold, you might have a mouse nest in the plenum or some other blockage. Heard of nests in the blower motor area, but that would be a first for temp door.

 

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Just talked to a guy at the dealer and he said that sometimes if the air is a little warmer on the drivers side then the 134 could be a little low. Last time I checked was last year, I just have not had time to look at it this year and of course it is HOT now. Hopefully I will have time tonight to hook up guages and see whats up.

I also just picked up a new clutch. I remember last year I had a shop look at is and they noticed that the fan was just free wheeling and not moving enough air. They put a fan in front of it and it got much cooler and the guage pressures dropped to normal
 

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Just talked to a guy at the dealer and he said that sometimes if the air is a little warmer on the drivers side then the 134 could be a little low. Last time I checked was last year, I just have not had time to look at it this year and of course it is HOT now. Hopefully I will have time tonight to hook up guages and see whats up.
I don't see how as we don't have a split system as far as I know. The air controls are split but we just have one condenser.
 

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That got me curious. We don't have a split system, that's right. We only have one evaporator, and it's centrally located. And the plenum looks like it's symmetrically designed so neither side will get preferential cooling. The digital system's sensors will accommodate a slight mismatch in airflow temp if that's true. But the experiment of removing the actuator and moving the temp door to full cold should have given the same temp as the passenger side.

Very odd, but it would require taking the plenum apart to see if the design could explain this observation. Or it could be a dust bunny buildup on the driver's side only because we don't have a cabin air filter.

 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well I am finished and what a difference. First it is easier to remove the fan blade from the clutch assembly and then remove the clutch and then the fan and shroud. I replaced the clutch d/t high a/c pressure last year but did not want to pay the $. So today I replaced the fan clutch and then found that the charge was a little low, couldn't tell before b/c the fan was not working properly. I had a new problem that started with warmer air on the drivers side and cooler on the passenger. A guy at the dealer said it was just because it was low in 134. I put in about 1.5lbs and it has never been better. The fan at start up let out a roar but came down, this is how the old blazers used to be. I now have the temp down to 53f, but it is only 75 degrees now we will see tomorrow when it hit 85-90.
Thanks for all of your advice, now on to the next problem.
 

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2004 gmc envoy_slt
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I'm going through the same problem right now. If I let the my 2004 Envoy (I-6) idle too long after starting it the condenser overheats and blows off freon. You can hear it when it does this, kinda sounds like when air breaks blead. The system is then low on freon and the driver side air is warmer than the passenger side. I have re-charged the system a couple times only to have it blow out again.

I think the problem is the radiator fan is not fully engaging when i start the car. I am able to stop the fan with my hand and there is virtually no air flow from the fan. After the motor heats up the fan starts to engage blows good. Is the fan clutch bad or is it some other problem? I want to make sure before I spend $200 on a fan clutch and the labor to replace it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
If you can stop the fan that is bad. I had never heard the fan roar on start up like this new one does. I got mine from napa for 196.00. A/C is still cold on both sides and the fan sounds good. I would do it.
 
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